Nope. It’s the only one around. It’s got some other small issues too that I wanted to address with my own small revision, but I never had the chance to get to it
My does fit pretty well. It’s true that the micro usb doesn’t sit perfectly, what I do is just put the soldering iron on top of it while I am gently pushing it down. In this way the micro usb port will melt the hal mm plastic part that needs to fit perfectly.
Yes you do! The remote you’re writing firmware for is the firefly lol.
I don’t write any firmware for any remote. 
I just came on this thread because I’m using the same library and was facing an issue that you may have also facing. 
You are right, I loaded the model into fusion 360 and it seems to fit pretty well where I am having the issues, must be because I am printing with Nylon or something. Will try ABS and see what happens
Try PETG and you won’t regret
I have a roll of black PETG, ill give it a go
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It doesn’t shrink and it is rock solid
you wouldn’t think nylon would either tbf
If you can get it print well yes it’s good too. I just find PETG the easiest and the stronger material to print. I do not know which printer you have, but it has to be a good one since you can print nylon. If you do not have experience with petg, just use your pla profile. Lower the fan (to 0 for strength, towards 100 for nice finish) ti something in the middle, like 30-50%. PETG likes to be printed slow. So I use 40mm/sec at most. Temperature depends on the filament. Usually between 220 to 240 ^C. Run a heat tower.
Thanks for the tips.
I have an ultimaker S5 and a CR-10S. I printed PETG on the CR-10S once and it was good, slightly stringy but came out nice. I will buy some ultimaker PETG, then I don’t have to worry about the settings as someone else has already worked that out for me!!!
I have a CR10S too. If you need my PETG profile just ask. I use https://www.amazon.de/SUNLU-Filament-Drucker-Dimensionsgenauigkeit-Schwarz/dp/B075Q65H5D/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1534266235&sr=8-3&keywords=petg PETG and It’s good.
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Wow, what a nice remote! I’m handy but not that handy to build one myself…I’ll blow up sh*t before I get something soldered correctly, hahahaa! Is anyone making these to sell? If so, what would the cost be? Really interested!
I am rework on the 3d files. Hope to improve a few minors and faster printing time with 2mm screws. And try to keep it original shape.
Printed PETG but best with Nylon for more dure on event of falls.
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I am planning to sell few batches of them after I used it for the past months and really like it. @solidgeek was so kind to give me the permission. I will of course send him donations for each remote sold. I am based in EU but I can ship world wild. I need a bit of time to finished other stuff before have the time to embrace this way.
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I just don’t know. I traced each connection the the arduino, even to the 328p. Tried a bunch of different NRF’s, still nothing. It’s killing me now because I had the remote working, even rode with it, but after two weeks of not riding it did not work. Using the development branch, tried master to get same results. TX Output: ⸮STATUS = 0xff RX_DR=1 TX_DS=1 MAX_RT=1 RX_P_NO=7 TX_FULL=1 RX_ADDR_P0-1 = 0xffffffffff 0xffffffffff RX_ADDR_P2-5 = 0x7f 0xff 0x7f 0xff TX_ADDR = 0xffffffff7f RX_PW_P0-6 = 0xff 0x7f 0xff 0x7f 0xff 0x7f EN_AA = 0xff EN_RXADDR = 0x7f RF_CH = 0xff RF_SETUP = 0x7f CONFIG = 0x7f DYNPD/FEATURE = 0x7f 0xff Data Rate = 1MBPS Model = nRF24L01 CRC Length = 16 bits PA Power = PA_MAX 041004b0a: Failed transmission
Rx Output: ** Esk8-remote receiver ** Settings loaded Printing receiver details STATUS = 0x00 RX_DR=0 TX_DS=0 MAX_RT=0 RX_P_NO=0 TX_FULL=0 RX_ADDR_P0-1 = 0x0000000000 0x0000000000 RX_ADDR_P2-5 = 0x00 0x00 0x00 0x00 TX_ADDR = 0x0000000000 RX_PW_P0-6 = 0x00 0x00 0x00 0x00 0x00 0x00 EN_AA = 0x00 EN_RXADDR = 0x00 RF_CH = 0x00 RF_SETUP = 0x00 CONFIG = 0x00 DYNPD/FEATURE = 0x00 0x00 Data Rate = 1MBPS Model = nRF24L01 CRC Length = Disabled PA Power = PA_MIN Setup complete - begin listening New package: ‘0-0-0’ Getting VESC data
Serial Output of the master branch on the Tx: STATUS = 0xff RX_DR=1 TX_DS=1 MAX_RT=1 RX_P_NO=7 TX_FULL=1 RX_ADDR_P0-1 = 0xffffffffff 0xffffffffff RX_ADDR_P2-5 = 0x7f 0xff 0x7f 0xff TX_ADDR = 0xffffffff7f RX_PW_P0-6 = 0xff 0x7f 0xff 0x7f 0xff 0x7f EN_AA = 0xff EN_RXADDR = 0x7f RF_CH = 0xff RF_SETUP = 0x7f CONFIG = 0x7f DYNPD/FEATURE = 0x7f 0xff Data Rate = 1MBPS Model = nRF24L01 CRC Length = 16 bits PA Power = PA_MAX 525 Failed transmission 423 Failed transmission 359 Failed transmission 302 Failed transmission 252 Transmission succes 207 Transmission succes 164 Failed transmission 130 Failed transmission 100 Failed transmission 80 Transmission succes 63 Transmission succes 48 Transmission succes 39 Failed transmission 33 Failed transmission 32
Not sure what the numbers mean.
The numbers are probably your hall sensor readings. Humor me and touch the antenna while you’re trying to use the transmitter. I’ve found some of my ceramic NRFs don’t work unless I’m touching the antenna for some reason. If that ends up being the case, I usually add an extra bit of wire to the antenna when this is the case and it clears right up
I can’t, I do not have the ceramic antenna modules.
PA Power = PA_MAX 529 Failed transmission 430 Failed transmission 368 Failed transmission 312 Failed transmission 260 Transmission succes 215 Transmission succes 174 Failed transmission 138 Failed transmission 107 Failed transmission 82 Transmission succes 62 Transmission succes 48 Transmission succes
Strange that it connects then loses it.
Ok it is connecting, but erratically. Re-soldering all connections.
Hey you guys! Long time lurker, first time poster.
But I successfully built a remote and connected it to my board! I have set up the PPM and it works just fine, but I have yet to solder on the connections to get telemetry! Hoping to get that done later today.
Some notes that may help other builders:
- I used the default code that was located in the original github and it works very well with the new VESC tool.
- I initially could not get the hall sensor to detect the magnets that I had ordered, so rather than order stronger magnets, I put a glob of hot glue under the hall sensor, elevating it closer to the wheel! Hasnt failed yet
- I completed the remote and the receiver and I couldnt get them to pair. It wasnt the address that was wrong, I apparently messed up the flashing process. I reflashed the receiver and it fixed my connection issues.
- Make sure you put some sort of shielding on the ceramic antennae. I tried to test the range without shielding the rest of the chip and the range was maybe 3 meters. Once I shielded it, I was able to control it from the other side of my house.
- I was successful in using a female Usb-C Port (Like member Travo was attempting) I attached the positive connection from the charging board to the 5v pad on the Usb-C port, and after cutting off the edges and tracing the pads, The ground is simply the metal casing of the port. So ground to ground (as per usual)
- I did have to trim off the edges of the port to get it to fit and modify the hole, but it is 100% possible. If you want to do this, make sure your 5v pad is within the center of the port and it will (probably) be usable once you trim off the edges.
- I wanted to use Usb-C because I currently use a Samsung phone that utilizes the port and theoretically, you should be able to use a lighting jack (if you can source one with breakout pads) with no issue just like USB-C. I have also been using my Samsung fast charger brick to charge the device and I have had no major issues other than the remote getting warm after charging.
- I used the board schematic provided by @ervinelin and his modified trigger version. It made the reciever so much simpler to build since not many people provided an “easy” way to set it up without having the need to reset it every time it gets restarted. The board was custom ordered from JLCPCB and came in at an amazing 5 business days.
Enough of the tips, here is my remote!
I realize now after uploading all the images that new users are limited to one image per post, so heres a link to an imgur gallery (Click the image) :
Anyway, I loved building the remote and it was a fun little weekend project! If anyone has any questions on how to make the remote or need clarification on any of my points I made above, feel free to ask!
11 Likes
Nice man. By the size of the receiver I see you didn’t use any big capacitor on between the 5v and gnd coming from the VESC. What did you use to shield the antenna? I am using another antenna that gives me more range than the ceramic one, but it worth a try if I can further extend the range. Did you should both the NRF modules? Thx