Good to know something so tiny works!
What connection issues are you facing?
Running @Deakbannokās code, the main control screen freezes up if I turn on safety mode (deadman switch). If I leave the safety off, the remote continues to function fine. Everything is working almost perfectly too which is the annoying part. I know the Hall sensor and trigger are working properly because if I boot straight into the remote settings, I have no problems. Iām beginning to think maybe my voltage regulator might be an issue?
Likely a code issueā¦ Or maybe you wired the switch wrongly?
Iām thinking it must be one of my wirings. the code worked perfectly for a while and now just doesnāt work as expected anymore
EDIT: Deak called it. One of my Ground pins wasnāt soldered well enough. I think I have a fully working Firefly now, Will be finalizing the first part of my video build guide if thatās the case.
EDIT2: just kidding. Still having problem with it
50v 0.68uF relatively small cap solved my requiring to reset on every boot issue. soldered it directly between rst and gnd pins.
I donno what is he talking aboutā¦ he iz crasy. i have nothing to do with anything on here 
problem you guys having is similarā¦ Please check your wiring and use a basic master branch code. You need a get a low ers capacitors.
we are working on a PID cruise control. hope to finalize before summer.
you will have an awesome DIY controller.
I have 4 controllers that I have built and are free giving free of charge. Mainly for the local riders in Paris and a few places in Europe I would hand them out for free.
3 Likes
Thanks buddy, this looks like a real community. I am already given with your code. 
Hey guys these extra parts are still up for grabsā¦ Iāll sell them all for $80. You can of course buy one or few parts.
I got:
3 * Arduino Nanos w/o Pins
10 * TP4056 Charging Modules (donāt know if you can use that tho but lmk)
10 * NRF24L01
Ģ¶5Ģ¶ Ģ¶*Ģ¶ Ģ¶5Ģ¶ Ģ¶mĢ¶eĢ¶tĢ¶eĢ¶rĢ¶sĢ¶ Ģ¶oĢ¶fĢ¶ Ģ¶3Ģ¶0Ģ¶ Ģ¶AĢ¶WĢ¶GĢ¶ Ģ¶WĢ¶iĢ¶rĢ¶eĢ¶sĢ¶ Ģ¶(Ģ¶eĢ¶aĢ¶cĢ¶hĢ¶ Ģ¶oĢ¶fĢ¶ Ģ¶cĢ¶oĢ¶lĢ¶oĢ¶rĢ¶ Ģ¶oĢ¶fĢ¶ Ģ¶rĢ¶eĢ¶dĢ¶,Ģ¶ Ģ¶bĢ¶lĢ¶uĢ¶eĢ¶,Ģ¶ Ģ¶yĢ¶eĢ¶lĢ¶lĢ¶oĢ¶wĢ¶,Ģ¶ Ģ¶wĢ¶hĢ¶iĢ¶tĢ¶eĢ¶,Ģ¶ Ģ¶aĢ¶nĢ¶dĢ¶ Ģ¶bĢ¶lĢ¶aĢ¶cĢ¶kĢ¶)Ģ¶ (SOLD)
20 * 5x5mm magnets
1 * SS495A Hall Sensor
2 * OLED Screen (They fit the ones on the remote control)
1 * 3.7V 500 mAh battery (fits in remote control)
If you are interested, please let me know. Trying to get rid of these things
Finally! I spent all day to build, and Iām so happy with this diy remoteš thank you @solidgeek Now Iām going to buy VESCs. Does anyone know will Torque Boardās VESC work with this remote? Will the āvescuart.hā library only work with vesc 6 (using real time data)? Thanks
4 Likes
Hi, IĀ“m selling a full kit to build the remote. I would offer the following parts: 2 * magnets (5mm) Boost converter Lipo charger 3.7V battery OLED display 2 * Arduino Nano 2 * nRF24L01 (one already soldered) Hall sensor Micro USB Power switch Spring Limit switch all 3D printed Parts
Price: 40ā¬ plus shipping
If anyone is interested just send me a PM 
i have both torque and enertion. they all work fine
Ok, short update. I killed my receiver but itās ok because I built another one. The small ceramic capacitor along with the cheap 220uF electrolytic capacitor and an LC filter have made my new receiver functional from immediate power on. Iām building a second remote and I have some low ESR caps to test still, but Iām pretty confident that a small cap between reset and ground will fix any freezing issues people are having.
1 Like
It works for me too but I cannot upload a sketch u less I unsolder the cap connected to reset pinā¦
hmmmā¦ I was able to upload code just fineā¦ are you using a larger electrolytic cap?I think the really small one Iām using doesnāt alter the reset timing enough for it to be a problem but maybe a bigger cap delays the reset too long to upload code?
I tried a smaller cap. Didnāt work. Went back to 100uF. What are you using?
You have to be carefull putting a big capacitor between reset and GND. When you turn off the arduino the cap will still be charged and the energi stored have no other way to discharge than to run into the arduino. This could fry the arduino. To limit the discharge current you could add a resistor in series with the cap.
2 Likes
I posted them earlier: https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/kemet/C320C223K1R5TA/399-4284-ND/818060
Itās a .022uF ceramic cap. how much smaller did you try? I tried a pF cap in the parts room but that didnāt work for me
I forgot what it was that I triedā¦ I will try to hunt down what you have and report backā¦
0.22uF cap didnāt work for meā¦ had to go back to the big fat 100uFā¦ 