Lol well usb power is the only thing left to try 
How would I even do that? Iām gonna try pulling VCC from UART next bc why not
Checking in case has even had the same problem.
Got 3 OLEDās for this, two out of the three canāt make them work.
Tried all found codes and example and nothing.
Using eh arduino i2c scanner for bothās he find them at their address 0x03c
but they never work. 
Anyone had similar problem?
I had an OLED inexplicably die. Apparently theyāre just really sensitive
Iāve used the 168x64 for other projects and they can take some abuse. But seems like that is the answerā¦ those things just go bad quite easily.
So I spliced the power lead to just behind the micro USB port to feed it power there, and still doesnāt boot up properly. I tried it with power from both PPM and UART. Iām at a lost rn. I donāt understand why it wonāt start up properly
Damn I was hoping for usb to solve this issue 
Take a look at here, seems like they have the same problem https://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=256771.0
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Looks like post #37 has a solution: https://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=256771.msg2359179#msg2359179
a 10uF cap and 470 ohm resistor in series form the reset pin to ground
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Fingers crossed for the method
damn, the electrical engineering parts room just closed 
Iāll have to wait till tomorrow to buy those parts to try it
just hope it works, as soon I get back home I need to try those possible solutions 
So I was bored and I may have found a solution that someone needs to tell me is a bad idea. But bridging the RST and GND pins with my cheap 220uF cap, I get proper startup on some example sketches all of the time. Iāve also got the LC filter wired up to keep some of the noise on the power lines at bay. Can someone tell me why this is a bad idea? 
Iāve ordered a bunch of low ESR caps, but Iām curious if this is a viable option too.
āThe benefit of a capacitor between RESET and Gnd is that it will keep the chip in reset mode for a brief period - and hence help with any contact bounce on the power supply.ā http://www.societyofrobots.com/robotforum/index.php?topic=3903.0
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That was what I was planning to do as wellā¦
Edit: tried it on my remoteā¦ Works!! I used a 100uF 10V cap soldered directly to the pinsā¦
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Just to add on in case you guys donāt read my other threadā¦
I added an LC filter and a large 1000uF cap to the receiver 5V supply. LC filter smooths out the noise, cap prevents brownouts. The latter I was getting when I tried to ride slowly upslope, I would lose connection (and brakes!!!) and it wouldnāt come back till I stopped for a few seconds.
Hmmmm thatās good to know. Iām at my Electrical engineering stockroom right now trying out different capacitors to bridge the Reset and GND pins with. I had success with some .022uF ceramic caps that are absolutely TINY and perfect for size constrained areas like my enclosure. These were the specific ones I plan on using.
https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/kemet/C320C223K1R5TA/399-4284-ND/818060
Iām gonna leave my LC filter on the power line too and probably put the 22ouF cap on it just in case after hearing about that.
Where are you shipping from (or āwhat are the costs of shipping to the Netherlandsā)? Also, what material and color did you print?
IĀ“m shipping from Austria (shipping would cost about 3ā¬) 
Its printed in pla and the colour is black.
Gotta try and see if a lower uF cap will work. Online it seems mostly 100 to 220uF is used for this.
The .022 uF ceramic cap works perfectly. Itās absolutely TINY and out of the way. now Iāve just gotta fix my remote connection issues again