Love this project! Why not use arduino with integrated nrf module? Could safe a lot trouble from what i read, no experience actually.
Are you on the VESC-project forums? I asked a question there now. Iâll see what the answer is. However I guess it is something like Vedderâs Nunchuck FW code on Github. See the links at VESC Nunchuk RF - ESK8 Electronics - Electric Skateboard Builders Forum | Learn How to Build your own E-board
yea I switched to hall sensors also. its just more fun to play with magnets. but yea no mechanical friction or wear. less noise. in theory more precise. and tiny.
@MontPierre Thanks mate, I will think about it 
!
@Nordle I am glad you like my work! Regarding your proposal⌠Do they exist? 
If they indeed do, well it would be interesting to try it out! I am thinking about making a custom PCB with a few solder points (easy assembly), a socket for an Arduino Nano (or mini) and use a Low Dropout Regulator to make a stable 3.3V for the nRF24 module. I believe this would be much better than the 3.3V supplied by the Arduino, and eliminate any power related issues
@oyta Yes I am, I have asked a few questions in there myself. The only information I got was that I could find what I needed in the source code for the VESC nunchuck. However, the source code isnât documented AT ALL, with no or only a few code comments - not easy for a DIY-guy as myself 
I would be much interested in what you find out!
@saul Gotta love those magnets 
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They do but not really so I made my own. 
I started with a nano clone for easy debugging with usb.
this version uses atmega328p pu. ftdi breakout, and regular nrf, 3.v3 ldo mcp 1700. 3x pwm out, 2x analog in.
the new version has 4 pwm, irq interupt, 1 analog pot, 1 hall sensor analog. + i2c out for oled. youâre welcome to use my hardware.
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Looks good! However I donât think I am going to use a atmega328p. I would rather use a Pro mini, because it is small and a little easier to reprogram I made and ordereder a PCB yesterday
I have added a LDO voltage regulator (5v to 3.3V) and some caps for the nRF24, and used the footprint for a pro mini (clone). I think it will help keep all the wiring more simple.
I have ordered some cheap Micro switches (1265mm) they should arrive tomorrow, I hope I can replace the tactile button with one of them.
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@solidgeek I just came across a exway board - and its remote ⌠Check it out. Similarities are amazing I donât think board is out as of yet.
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This exway brand is a ghost company of Stary boards and this remote is just a clone of stary boards remote.
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Cool! This explains a lot.
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I have made a new version of the shell tonight, with room for a wrist strap and changed the design so that there are no need for bolts inside to hold the trigger button etc.
Going to test everything out tomorrow
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That remote looks nice I like their OLED interface, maybe I am going to steal some of those graphics 
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Please upload the new version to thingiverse! Iâd like to print it
Youâre not copying - youâre being inspired by their graphics 
Now repeat after me 
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@UniqueSnowflakeN27 I am currently printing top and bottom (roughly 5 hours), I will upload the new version if everything fits correctly
@MontPierre As my old school teacher always told us âcopy and paste - no time to wasteâ 
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If anyone needs buttons hit me up, just pay for postage and ill send a few your way.
Boost converter came in its really really small 
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Looks nice! I am very interesting to see if your buttons have the same âdeadzoneâ as the ones I got from a local shop here in Denmark. Its a little anoying as I have to press my trigger a little extra after it says âclickâ to activate the trigger 
I am still working on a solution
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Just finished the newest version of the remote, with no need for inside bolts, room for a wrist strap and some minor changes that should improve the overall quality of the remote.
I have been trying to solve the âdead zoneâ issue with the tactile buttons, however, I have not found a solution. Instead, I have bought some new buttons (12,6mm micro switches) and made room for them, which works much better. However, the previous tactile buttons should still fit perfectly.
Will be releasing/updating my Thingiverse project tomorrow, so you guys can try out the design
Thanks for the support!
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Received the arduino nano came in today.
I just realized that the lipo battery shouldnât be charged with more than 1C (or 400mA), and the charger TP4056 normally is programmed to output 1A (1000mA) by setting the R_prog resistor to 1,2kOhm. To keep the battery well charged, and safe I recommend changing the resistor to a 5kOhm, which would limit the charge current to 250mA.
I have released the newest (and maybe final?) version of the 3D-model on Thingiverse. It should be mostly plug-n-play, you will only need a spring and six M3 16mm bolts
I am planning to make a few prototypes for you guys (fully assembled and tested) if anyone is interested !
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Iâd totally be interested in a prototype! Iâd compensate you for it, of course. This is an awesome project.