Simple 3D-printed NRF remote - Arduino controlled

Yes I am planning to make a hole for leash attachment, and adding a 3D-model for the receiver too :slight_smile: If you don’t need leash, well there will be no changes to the remote design at the moment :slight_smile:

Thanks mate ! I’ll be waiting on that leash hole then haha. Are you going to finalize the BOM and a step by step guide anytime soon ?

Yes I am :slight_smile: I am currently working on a wiki/guide on github, I hope that will do :wink: maybe I will make an instructables later.

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how about this one. it has micro usb interface.

It’s basically the same I used in my current remote build, however it is only a charger nothing more (you will need a boost converter board too). The micro USB has to be removed anyway, as the charging port is placed next to the switch, and it can’t fit attached to the board.

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ok, thanks.

I just found another one which fits (with over-discharge protection). I will order a few of both boards and test them out as soon as they arrive (usually two weeks).

Charger and boost module (over discharge protection): $3,79

Charger and boost module (no over discharge protection): $3,18

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HÄber du poster dit projekt i FB gruppen, nÄr du er i mÄl :slight_smile: Jeg vil i hvertfald bygge din remote, men venter med at bestille noget, til du har lÄst dit pÄ de forskellige komponenter :slight_smile:

Helt sikkert, glĂŠder mig til at hĂžre jeres mening :smiley: !

Are these necessary from what was originally on the parts list? Or they are better features? I already got the stuff from the parts list shipped, but it’s gonna be stuff in the shipping for two weeks.

No these are only to simplify the assembly process. The remote needs a lipo charger, and a boost converter (on the parts list) I just found a board that could do both :slight_smile: However, I just realized that using one board probably isn’t a better solution because you wouldn’t be able to put a switch between the charger and the boost converter.

Maybe I should design a custom PCB
 Another day :stuck_out_tongue:

So I was testing out my remote today and had what felt like a few loss of connection (no acceleration, no braking). I began debugging the connection and found that it worked perfectly. The problem wasn’t the transmitting part, but the trigger button. It seems that the tactile button I am using has a “dead-zone” after it “clicks”.

I will have to make some adjustments to the trigger part, so the button doesn’t release accidentally.

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This isn’t the first time I’ve seen a hall sensor used over a pot, but why? What are the pros/cons of using a hall sensor vs a pot?

More precision and resolution. Over time, the mechanical pot will wear down and get imprecise and introduce jitter. In princip a hall sensor will last forever, since its magnetism and the parts is not tuching each other.

This is a hall sensor gimball for a Rc remote. I did this upgrade to my own Taranis, and the feeling was a night/day experience. He explains it very well : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h5oI6is-0CE

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I guess that makes sense, esp considering pots are mostly used for when you only adjust it maybe several times a day (volume control, etc), not many times a minute. Now I’m starting to wonder how all sorts of things work - throttle pedals in cars, etc :slight_smile:

To be fair though: potentiometers have been used in rc remotes since forever (just look at the all time favourite here: the gt2b) and have been holding up quite well. Hall sensors are more sophisticated though and I guess the only downside is that they might be more expensive than a traditional potentiometer design.

Well, I don’t know much about the pros/cons of using a Hall Effect sensor, except that a Hall sensor is very small and has no mechanical friction. Basically I choose to use a Hall sensor, simply because I couldn’t find any high-quality potentiometer that I could fit inside the remote. And well
 A Hall sensor seems a little more high tech :wink:

Also no effected by water, which is why I want to put one in my GT2B. Anyone know of a drop in replacement for the pot?

Believe magnets typically weaken over time especially if they are heated and or shocked from impact but everything is subjective to damage if you hit it hard enough. The hall sensor may also be affected by other magnets such as those used in wallet if it was in an inopportune place. Up sides have already mostly been pointed out, no friction from the sensor itself so free to use any sort of spring or other mechanism to create the feel you want.

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@solidgeek please post link to PayPal or something similar for donations once your project is finished. I’m sure a lot of us ( including myself ) would love to send your few € for all your hard work ! :+1:t2:

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