Simple 3D-printed NRF remote - Arduino controlled

First of all, you should use the development version for the Remote and receiver (newest version) https://github.com/SolidGeek/nRF24-Esk8-Remote/tree/development. If that doesnt solve the problem I would try erasing the EEPROM (overriding any bad settings) by changing the firmware version and reupload everything.

Screenshot_20190420-010034__01__01

The problem usually is bad connections (please double check all nrf24 connections) or wrong software. I havent had any hardware issues ever. But I might have been lucky.

Are you still selling the remotes? i would like to buy one if you are. thanks.

I donā€™t think anyone is right now, youā€™d have to make one yourself. I could be wrong though :man_shrugging:t2:

For anyone those who experienced connection issues. Itā€™s no secret that the power filter on the receiver is important but today I found out something about the nrf module on the remote. For a reliable connection the wires coming from the nrf module need to be parallel to each other for around 1 cm, like shown here: image If they are soldered well but cross each other early (no short but not parallel to each other from pin direction) than I donā€™t get a good connection. They have to be parallel for 1 cm, I used kapton tape to keep it in place and ever since didnā€™t had any connection problems. Anyone can confirm this?

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How can I invert acceleration/brake in the transmitter.ino ? One solution is of course to just flip the magnets but I have them already glued so I need to change it in the arduino file. Anyone knows how? @solidgeek

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I build this remote a while ago, but I noticed a lot of noise on the throttle shown on the bar on the display. Since i upgraded my board to 150mm air tires, I also noticed this noise while driving.

any clue how to improve this?

I just got in my nano with integrated rf24. Has anyone tested this out yet?

IMG_20190423_184442

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:slight_smile: Just point the CSN and CE pins.

RF24 radio(10,9);

I was thinking of getting the same. Did you get a chance to test it?

If Iā€™m not mistaken, the UART protocol changed for the Focbox Unity and the telemetry on the Firefly is broken. Iā€™m highly sceptical my board can go 1000km/hā€¦ or thatā€™s at least what the telemetry tells me. :laughing:

Did some digging on the forums and came across @StefanMe FeatherRemote and his updated VescUartUnity library.

How to fix it for Unity users:

  • Download and include the Unity lib into Arduino IDE
  • comment out the old #include ā€œVescUart.hā€ on line 5 in reciever.ino
  • on the next line, paste the new Unity lib: #include <VescUartUnity.h>
  • comment out VescUart UART; on line 116.
  • paste VescUartUnity UART; on the next line

Should be good to go, unless I forgot something.

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Has anybody had the issue with the remote where it freezes/ glitches out on startup? I thought maybe I had a tiny shirt somewhere but it seems to happen randomly. When the hall sensor was soldered on it would turn on and the RX light would light up, but with the hall sensor desoldered it just has the power light on. Normally on a successful boot up the L light blinks for a second. Itā€™s really frustrating can someone help me?

For clarification it fixes itself when I hit the reset button on the Arduino

Generally this happened when I had either a short or a bad solder joint somewhere on the remote. Typically though this was an issue Iā€™d have on my receivers before I added a ceramic cap on the GND and reset pins. That might work for you in this instance as well but itā€™d only be a bandaid fix

Ok, Iā€™m gonna try and re solder all my pins, and see if that does anything. Iā€™ll admit Iā€™m not all the good at soldering as Iā€™m relatively new to it (or at least new to doing it the RIGHT wayšŸ˜…)

image

As you can see Iā€™m relatively new to this haha. I took the best picture I could, but let me know if anything stands out

The loose wire is for the hall sensor, I ended up breaking mine so I had to order a new one

Also a note for those who are not aware: Placing a cap on the GND and Reset in some cases will not allow you to upload sketches to your Arduino, so placing a cap is recommended after the software is installed.

You say itā€™s a ā€˜bandaidā€™ fix? What would you recommend as a more ā€˜seriousā€™ fix? :slight_smile:

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Iā€™ll let you know if I ever figure one out :sweat: I said bandaid because like you said, some people have had issues with not being able to upload after placing the ceramic cap. I havenā€™t run into that issue personally yet, but I do recognize that I have the luxury of a surplus of consistent hardware from the same manufacturer.

@SeeTheBridges @solidgeek
I canā€™t navigate in the menu, itā€™s on ā€œTrigger useā€ it only changes the value from Killswitch and Cruise. am I missing something? all my wires are correct

EDIT: my magnet were reversed :sweat_smile: all good :smile:

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Edit/ update: Just tried shielding the NRF antennas and resoldering the one on the transmitter. Also plugged it into my VESC for power to see if that was the issue. It still pairs for just a second and then disconnects. Iā€™m gonna guess that itā€™s code related then. Iā€™ll keep you guys posted, sorry for the spamšŸ˜¬

last edit: fixed it. had the wrong UART library installed. cleared EEPROM, flashed devbranch of solidgeeks code, and everything seems to be working perfect! anybody know how to get UART info to show up?