Certified FOCBOX Suppliers | Get Focbox Unity

Removing FVT 120A ESC Fan?


#1

Hi there,

I put together my basic build, and it functions! Thanks for all your help!

However, I was wondering if it is possible to remove the fan on the FVT esc, as it is a bit too loud for my liking. If I just left a hole for the heatsink so air could circulate as I rode and removed the fan, would this prevent overheating?

Thanks!


Daily | globe catalina | sk3 | custom mount | 6s lipo
What do you think abut this parts for my
#2

I have used the HK150A for over a year without a fan with no issues. I think it is similar to the EZrun, should be fine


#3

I think they’re similar as well!


#4

I just tested it
After 10 minutes it’s kinda warm is that ok?
I just turned the board upside down and did random accel/brake


#5

Never mind after riding it the motor had a bunch of cogging, heated up a lot and the fvt was burning to the touch, probably just gonna deal with the fan noise

Do you think I can solve the cogging by reprogramming?


#6

@FlimFlamPhlegm I ran 2 fvt 120 amp with no fans for 20 mile trips and it wouldnt heat up at all. Just keep them in an area with alot of air flow!. and keep the heat sinks on


#7

Maybe it’s because it keeps cogging on startup? Would that be the problem?

I just tried it out again, and the urethane wheels had a burnout or something and now the house smells like plastic. The motor and ESC were all searing hot and the wires were warm. Is it just because of the large current draw caused by cogging?

If so, would reprogramming fix this? Im using 6s with a single hub carvon v2.


#8

no the cogging shouldnt have anything to do with it because when you first start up, whether the fan is on or not, it is at room temp.

You might have a short or wires connected wrong. Please upload pictures and exactly what kind of motors and battery youre using.

Also how did you diconnect the fan? did you formally open the esc and un plug it? or just jam something in the fan blade? (sometimes people do that lol)

Also when i used to have 270kv motos on that esc. when i pushed the throttle all the way down right away, the motors would cog up big time, i had to accelerate gradually (which is how you would accelerate when driving anyway) is this what youre talking about maybe?


#9

And yeah I unplugged the fan ( i did it too hard and broke the pins off, no shorts in the fan connector)

I also tried just going really slowly but it still cogged, even when i went really slowly on the acceleration


#10

it would really help if you posted a short video of it. Im pretty good with these esc’s if its a common issue i may be able to help


#11

also, depending on which wiiceiver youre using, it might be the problem. try the system on a reguar 2.4 ghtz controller so eliminate any chance of it being a connection issue.


#12

I am using the newest wiiciever batch, 2.0B3
A video is probably going to have to wait until tomorrow, I left it in the washroom with the air extractor on to get rid of the smell.


#13

Okay you’re not running sensors right?

Do you have a pic of the motor?

Does the motor have bullet connectors soldered on?


#14

the motor is the silver thing sticking out of the purple wheel in the 1st pic (it’s a hub motor)
the motor is sensorless, and the bullet connectors are soldered and heatshrinked,


#15

Oh I’m sorry I didn’t see the first pic as I’m on my phone!

And hmm okay yea it all looks good… We’ll have to wait for a video and/or trying with a different receiver (just in case) I had wiiceivers that were good in theory but terrible in practice


#16

Aight yeah thanks for all the help so far!

I’ll try to get a video up tomorrow


#17

Solder that dongle onto the wiiceiver while you are at it.

So yoy are using single motor? Maybe a 150A would have been better. Maybe 120A for dual motors without a fan.
I definitely dont get too warm with my 150A no fan. Even on hot days.


#18

Yes I am using a single motor, could the heat be due to the 120A not being able to handle the amp draw?
I’m planning to get a programmer to remove backwards cause I can’t brake right now, going to see if tweaking timings and such helps with it.

How would I go about soldering the dongle on? Do I have to take off the plastic housing?


#19

yup you take it out of the housing and solder the wires directly.
otherwise you may die.
you have been warned.


#20

i have an extra programing card i can give you for cheaper than wherever you can buy it