I believe I have the new 2piece clamp 
Sorry for the overly negative review; overall the mount gets the job done; just a shame that I can no longer remove it due to it requiring a lot of loctite ¯_(ツ)_/¯
You always tell people to email you but when they do you never reply.
I had issues a year ago with both of my mounts you told me to email you for a new clamp no reply.
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Are you sure? Cause I had issues with the old clamp and the new one that came out a few months ago has not moved or slipped at all, what trucks are you using?
Cant remember and its a bit to late, its been over a year now.
@rusins if you would like to remove the mount you just need to apply a bit of heat to it. I’m not sure if you used the red or the blue loctite, but if you get the loctite, even the red loctite, to around 550 degrees fahrenheit, you should be able to remove the bolts pretty easily. Actually really easily, it should be like the loctite isn’t even there. The easiest way to heat them up is just with a propane torch, or something with an even cooler flame. Just make sure that you, of course, remove the motors and everything from the clamps, and that you remove the hanger form your truck. Also, put the least amount of heat in to it possible, if the metal gets too hot, the composition and characteristics of the metal will change. If you wanted you could also use a heat gun, but I would imagine it would take a while and heat up more of the piece. I do agree about the clamps through, red loctite is the only way they stay on, but I think it’s the nature of any clamp. The trucks are vibrating a lot on the road, and the length of the mount puts a lot of torque on the clamps.
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@C23 Thanks for the tip! Will try it out when I get the need to really take them off.
@Battosaii Using Calliber 2 trucks. Here’s an image:
As you can see, the motors and mounts are pretty scratched; definitely gonna use backward mounting for future builds. 
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That’s the old 1 piece clamp with the problems you need the new clamp.
The new clamp is 2 parts that you attach to the motor plate.
I make caliber motor mounts https://www.electric-skateboard.builders/t/boardnamics-idler-motor-mounts-for-sale/46255/48
They utilize locknuts on all of the connections except the ones to the motor obviously. I would be impressed if u managed to get it lose. It squeezes the hell out of the hanger with 2 m6 bolts. All of the hardware is also 12.9 so much harder to strip
Give it a try! In a few days they will be $15, the cheapest mount on the market!
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Thanks everyone who replied. A lot of ideas and suggestions here, but if i’m honest I’m not sure if any one solution would address all problems I experienced.
I think a perfect caliber II mount would need to have the following:
- Cross Bars between the motor mounts for dual motor setups. This would minimize the strain on the c-clamps making them less likely to fail.
- At least one of this 2 to avoid belt skipping
- Fit Dual 55mm motors and 15mm belts (some of them do)
- Have idlers with a few fixed positions so that it doesn’t “slide” (essential to have good idlers if running 12mm belts)
- Connection between c-clamp and motor arm needs to have fixed positions (not a “continuum”). It can still be adjustable by having several holes but each role the same size of the fastener. Or it should be just one piece.
- Contact area that the c-clamp makes with the hangers needs to be good (maybe wider?). The c-clamps that only have 1 bolt and rely on the C “closing down” due to the force of the bolt don’t seem good enough. I haven’t tried the ones with 2 bolts.
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Is there a page for the new mount with 2 piece clamp? Does it work well with caliber II trucks? Can you PM it to me please.
i have marc mounts with TB trucks + sixshooters and rode quite a bit. They are good mounts if installed properly…never had issues, but every now and then i do some maintenance+loctite…but agree with psyco, the origin of the issues are Caliber II trucks.
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Right! So it doesn’t matter how much it costs. $100 bucks widely accepted, rattly mounts suck. Thin toilet paper is widely accepted and used everywhere too. Is it good?
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I really don’t get why trucks are the part most people wanna cheap out on.
The amount of builds i see on $100+ wheels, $200 deck, $400+ battery $300 on vesc and then $30 trucks… 
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@gmurad not yet, we haven’t updated photos yet. But @Battosaii posted an image above.
We have a new option that we haven’t released yet (in production) but it’s almost everything you’ve mentioned.
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Are you saying that people get Caliber II trucks because they are cheaping out? My reason to use them had nothing to do with money.
we use calibers because they are good and cheap. but they are cast and not precision milled. so every set will be slightly different. as all mounts are precision made, it doesn’t work 100% for everyone. SurfRodz, Fatboy for example are precision. mounts for them should fit 100%.
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I didn’t mean it like that. There’s just so many options for high-end parts, I feel like every month I see a really cool new set of mount or drivetrain but all for caliber trucks…
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Ohhh, I thought that type of mount would be called 3 piece, because there are 3 pieces that connect after all… That mount does look like it would fix the problems I experienced.
Sorry for the confusion. I owe a small apology to @torqueboards too then 
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