"Project X" | First Build | CustomDeck | MBS ATS Truck | Dual 190kv | 10s Lipo | Dual FOCBOX | Build Log

[Namasaki]

@J.Biggs I would not recommend 5ah 30c packs even for a street board let alone a EMTB.

I would recommend no less that 60C and preferably something closer to 90c or even 100c

[J.Biggs]

I was going to use the ones in your build but they were out of stock when I checked. Thanks for the advice. I wasn’t to sure if it was gonna work.

[Namasaki]

I think you will have too much voltage sag with the 5ah 30c there is another source for high quality high output Lipos https://www.smc-racing.net

[J.Biggs]

So somthing more like this with a 130c burst with 90c constant?

Turnigy Graphene 5000mAh 2S2P 90C Hardcase Lipo Pack (ROAR APPROVED)

[J.Biggs]

I just found a site that offers 100c for $45.50 if you buy five of them, I dont know if there credible though.

http://www.promatchracing.com/proddetail.php?prod=2S5000100C

http://www.promatchracing.com/products.php?cat=38

[Namasaki]

I’m not familiar with promatch. The graphenes have a good reputation

[J.Biggs]

So I found a new motor because I didn’t realize the other one is rated for 6s not 10s so here is my new motor I’m planning on getting.

KEDA 63-64 190KV Brushless Outrunner 10S 2000W

[TarzanHBK]

Noob question thread! 😀 ask your questions here!

Alright, looks interesting and new I´d use a smaller BMS for charging only for this board. You can´t use the BMS for discharging too low anyway, so i would only use the charging and balancing aspect. This way you are eliminating a factor for performance. The next limiting part would only be the two focboxes, but you´re able to pull some nice juice out of them before something happens

[J.Biggs]

So, your saying don’t use the BMS I found, wouldn’t a weaker one not work, or are you saying balance charge them each separately. One more question what do you mean by limiting factor? Thanks for the help.

[TarzanHBK]

Alright, to make it more clear. This BMS gives you a bit more safety, but will limit your setup. Don´t get me wrong, 80A continous can definitely move things A smaller charge-only BMS will alow you to bypass the bms for discharging and will only be used for charging and balancing your lipos. It´s much smaller and cheaper. Something like this one: https://www.ebay.com/itm/282923151393?ul_noapp=true

What i meant with limiting factor: You´ll find a bottleneck in every system. But you´re able to get all parts to about the same level and that´s the art of building. In your sytem, the batteries are able to pull more than 80A and both focboxes are able to pull more than 80A together. In between that, there is your BMS which, with 80A will be the limiting factor. It´s better to let the Focboxes enlarge their full potential and let them manage the maximum limit for maximum fun Before you buy one, pls do some research on BMS for charging and discharging vs. BMS for charging only, bypassing discharge

[J.Biggs]

Wow, that was very helpful thank you.

[TarzanHBK]

sure thing Have fun building and just use the search bar for some topics regarding your partlist. If you´ll stuck somewhere, just write the question down and we´ll figure it out!

[J.Biggs]

Alright, will do. I’m so glad this forum exists.

[J.Biggs]

Update I decided to just get more wood and cover it with Basalt to save even more money and this is how it turned out, or at least the wood part.

Next time I should do a better job gluing, but hopefully when I laminate it’ll keep it from deforming.

[J.Biggs]

So, I made a material change and switched back to CF due to the nature of resin needed for the Basalt. But I didn’t just get any Carbon Fiber…

!

I followed this thread.

Hand Lay Carbon Fiber Wrapping / Skinning Without Vacuum Bagging

I’ve now done the black layer and the first clear coat.

Word of advice do not do it in direct sunlight when it’s +90 degrees out side. Otherwise that 4-6 hours only take 5 minute. Lesson learned…

And this is a pic of the red version for reference.

[J.Biggs]

And here is the second layer.

And some more words of advice, don’t set it under a tree, stuff can fall in it. Don’t use a paint brush, they don’t work well and you have to throw them away. Use something flat to spread it more or less evenly, and let gravity do the rest of the work for you.

[J.Biggs]

Soo… I thought I should tell you guys another mistake I made and update with some pictures of the longest part of the process, Sanding.

I was able to sand off the burrs with 60 grit fairly easily both hand sanding and with tools.

Dont over sand, but I’ll be covering that with grip tape.

I also covered it with water just to see what it would look like.

And now to talk about my mistake… So here’s the story I was planning to learn from my last mistakes of not doing the bottom layer in the sun. I was all prepared this time with the pre cut fabric at the ready. I did the routine mix the resin add the dye poor it on evenly. But I forgot that once done your support to let it sit till it becomes tacky. I put it on when it was still wet. I tried to save it by taking off the fabric and adding another layer of resin to let that get tacky and re-apply the same fabric. That didn’t work so I ended up just scraping off all the wasted resin and throwing away the fabric. So right now I’m just taking a brake letting it still and updating you all. Lucky I still have enough resin and fabric left to retry one last time. Third times a charm right?

[J.Biggs]

Updates, I’m going to split them up into sections so this first one is just finishing the bottom of the deck. Sorry in advaadvance for the Organization I’ll fix it whwhen I have access to a computer.

[J.Biggs]

Next update is the sanding then more resin then standing and sanding and sanding…

[J.Biggs]

And finally the moment you’ve been waiting for…

It now has a name “Project X”