Ah, that one is plastic so there was nothing to earth actually. I could probably find the link for the enclosure if you would like the same one.
Yes please do ā just so I can see what it looks like. I am happy with my ugly smurf blue one (already ordered and tired of shopping and measuring).
It is pretty crowded in mine, there is no way I could fit all of this stuff in any smaller one. But I wanted full voltage range and the AC-60V PSU is huge, much larger than lower voltage ones.
As for enclosure, search āHF-1-9 ABS Plastic Enclosureā on eBay.
Also, different 60V PSU have slightly different dimensions. I feel like I calculated mine to be right on the edge, again, not sure if larger one would fit. This is the link to mine.
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Oh just few more pointers.
Obviously, the mounting holes of the enclosure donāt mach the holes in the PSU so I mounted the PSU on the piece of plexiglass with some countersunk bolts and then mounted it all on the enclosure.
Using ferrules or crimp connectors will make your life WAY easier when connecting all the sh*t together on a project like this. And silicone wire, nothing else comes close. Cut, crimp connect, done. Seriously, once I figured out the layout, it was all done in 10 minutes.
For the bullet connectors, I advise you to use this type. Or use the same spacing, think itās 19mm. Itās the spacing between the EU 2pin plug which you can then use to plug into the output 
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in the article you linked above from endless-sphere he tells how the ideal charging curve for litihium is with more current at low soc tapering as it gets to full and that this is what a plain psu with constant voltage puts out anyway. and trickle charging is still vague as to how and when itās dangerous.
The remote thing is awesome in its own way but it still seems a bare psu will not in any way be more damaging to cells. Is this true?
Special thanks 
@SilentException and @scepterr
Yeah so i finished customizing my own charger can charge to 12S thru a bmsā¦ and is bluetooth so your PC can remotely charge your board. Has a DC JACK that goes into the charge port of your bms. Limited to 5A. Fun times begin No more charger bricksā¦ everrrr!
Next i am going to use a high amp power supply from ebay and use a regulator and step up converter to get to 12A charger and 2S - 16S range.
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Looking good, I would use a diff barrel connector though, those screw terminal ones are sub100watt rated at best
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Thanks! They do look cheap.
Are these any good? Amazon doesnāt have any watt ratings unfortunately 
Oh the DC jack. What do you use to terminate toā¦ a DC plug as well right? Can you link it.
I use these specifically, I like them because I can insert the positive lead into the positive terminal, allowing for shortest distance wire to contact
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Wait what? Iāve used very similar barrel ports to what @gogomrrobot is using at upto 10A load at 24V and they where fine, though when using a very similar DC Jack like that it got crazy hot at only 5A. Iād recommend those screw terminals, but use male bannana plugs to put it in, donāt just screw a raw wire into it.
I got the male and female of these for 2$ go to your local electrical store if you need it fast and cheap
I have a question. How do you charge to 14s if the drok max output is 50V? Can you by pass it in the software?
Nope you cantā¦correct limited to 12S I got ahead of myself actually. I ordered a new setup already.
It uses these 3 piecesā¦
(I had this guy already from earlier this year)
Hooked up to this guyā¦below to limit the amperage to 12Aā¦
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071LGTTRN/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Hooked up to this guy to boost the voltage up to 21S ?..
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076TTBKFG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Routed thru this sucker with a built-in shunt because I need a displayā¦
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0753G4SQ6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Then I will mount some potentiometers to replace the little screws on the regulators so I can mount those like knobs on an electronics enclosure.
Will I likely blow up my house when I try to step down the amperage that much? Yes likely but theoretically it should work.
Donāt just plug wires into it? What kind of banana plugs? They would have to be teeny tiny rightā¦ the opening to those screw terminals is very small.
Can you link any high current / high voltage DC jack male/females ? I feel like these tiny plugs and receptacles that say 5a-10a and 24V are going to blow something up. I want those thick ones. Should be worth the investment.
Thats some Doc from Back 2 the future stuff right there. Gonna power the flux capacitor with that!
Thanks for the detailed explanations @scepterr, @SilentException, @gogomrrobot. I think Iām gonna go down the 12s bluetooth route!
Yeah the up to 12S (50V) bluetooth route is a one day project once I got everything from Amazon. Ohā¦ and I used this Dremel metal cutting disc. Then painted the front and back black spray paint to hide my screw ups 
Below is a picture of the plugs Iām using with my DPS5015. The bannana male plugs are 4mm.
And regarding your post just before this, are you using 3 different converters in your charger?!?! That is incredibly inefficient, Iām not sure why you donāt just use one or the other or use a higher voltage PSU. Oh and that 12V 75A PSU was kinda a scam, you can get used computer server PSUās for under $20 that output nearly 70A I got these two for like $24.
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Two converters you mean. The last screen is just current voltmeter. It is for building a second box like what i just built.
Yeah i was trying to make up for a bad purchase by putting it to some use. Probably wonāt build a second box. Not sure 
I want to go beyond 5A charging you know what i mean?
Charge a large battery in 20 mins would be really cool 