Hmmm maybe put a bolt in each threaded insert and coat the head in sharpie/highlighter/glue/paint/chalk and then try to line up the new enclosure so the marks transfer?
Or get a big sheet of paper and punch out the holes.
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The big sheet of paper could probably work as I have some big rolls of the newspaper ends. I could also probably put white out on the bolts and then place the new one over top so it marks them with the whiteout.
Does anyone know where to get a 12s4p battery with a bms and charger included that will fit in eboosted’s 12s enclosure. Preferably for under $500. And shipping to the U.S.
@Ryguy_MyGuy Psychotiller.com is where you wanna look
Or contact @Eboosted he can build you one for your enclouser
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Ok. Thanks
how do I figure out maximum discharge current? im building a 10s4p pack of these https://ru.nkon.nl/samsung-inr-18650-30q-3000mah.html
Was gonna order 3 ft of 12 and 3 ft of 18
Reading the data sheet of a product you want to buy is always a good start. After that have a small research with google or here and most questions will be answered pretty fast.
Edit: as we in the noob thread, 30q data sheet says 15A discharge but they good for 20A discharge. So 80A max on a 4p pack
In your opinion, since 12AWG can do 80A max, is that cutting it too close? Or will I ever even be able to hit 80A with the battery? Maybe gunning it up a steep hill
The price difference is not that big. Just get 10awg and don’t look back 
If you have space in your enclosure also use xt90 connectors. They also more easy to solder if you use bigger wires.
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Like @Andy87 said, spend the extra couple dollars, and go with 10AWG and XT90 connectors, it’s cheap insurance. Overkill is underrated, and improves reliability. 30Q cells have a datasheet rating of 15A, but if you compare their discharge graphs to other cells, they actually perform better than many 20A rated cells. Besides, esk8 very rarely provides enough load to draw the full 80A from a pack for more than a dozen seconds or so at a time anyway.
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If you use wire big enough to carry 80A @grrsona
I personally use this chart which shows 12AWG as 41A, but realize that’s for 24/7 continuous current. You can probably double any of those numbers for 10 seconds or less. Typically you wouldn’t be at full throttle longer than that unless you’re going up a huge, long hill at top speed.
Yes, but it also effects the handling. You can have negative rake or positive rack.
Positive rake gives more ground clearance, but is less stable / more carvey.
I run positive rake so I can make sharper U-turns on my commute, the increased ride height helps with wheel bite too. Still stable at 45kph for me.
some thoughts To make motor mount for Paris truck. 16mm hole, m4 screw, price 1.5$
Anyone know a good place to buy bolts / hardware online? I’m in the UK/EU, looking for black button-head bolts, preferably philips type.
eBay is a good place
Usually 2-3 delivery
What @moon said ebay or local hardware store. I wouldnt go phillips head though go with torx less likely to strip the head.
Is the warranty of a motor voided, if I solder other connectors on it?
Local hardware store won’t really get you anywhere. Best to get it online
Local hardware stores are hopeless
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Most motors don’t have warranty
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It’s from APS