The Turnigy sk3 motor is not sensored and what are experiencing is called ācoggingā
You have to kick to raise your speed above zero, then use the throttle. This is because itās not using sensors
The Turnigy sk3 motor is not sensored and what are experiencing is called ācoggingā
You have to kick to raise your speed above zero, then use the throttle. This is because itās not using sensors
Hi Iām new and Im wonderingg how you connect a 12s esc to a receiver because there are so many wires not the torque boards versions.
Post photos of the ESC and the receiver. Also if the esc is a VESC, I donāt recommend 12S voltage
you donāt recommend 12s on a vesc?
No. Lots and lots of folks do it, but I donāt recommend it
care to explain why? genuinely curious.
The parts used in the vesc circuit shouldnāt be run that high, especially with a reactive load like motor windings. Iām not trying to run my controller on the razor edge of whatās possible because it increases failure rate. Iād prefer if the board failing on me was kept to an extreme minimum, especially if it means I lose brakes and definitely if it means a $150+ part is the thing failing
Would running a sensored motor as unsensored damage the motor?
Nope; it will be fine.
Just type in āsolarā in the search bar and youĀ“ll find some people who tried different approaches to this topic.
What makes sense, is a solarpanel charging a car battery at home, where you can connect your board charger to (12V input, maybe use a step up converter) and charge your board.
lotĀ“s of people running 12s on vesc and some even run 13s without problems. Just pick a quality Vesc
I donāt want to hear any āperson X did it and itās okayā @TarzanHBK I even said in my post lots of people do it.
That doesnāt change at all the fact that you you are running the components on the edge of failure (into a reactive load, at that) and nearly every single piece of electronics you use in your life has at least a 40% margin of error. And those are all pieces of electronics that wonāt throw you jaw-first into the street if they fail or kill your brakes at the top a huge hill. Itās just not worth it. Itās also a very expensive component if it fails.
Even at 10S weāre running with a smaller margin than that. At 12S, the margin is tiny and at 13S there is no margin at all, youāre running at - or over - the rated limits of the components. 8S is actually the sweet spot for rock-solid dependability.
So my point still stands. I donāt recommend running 12S with a VESC. If you donāt value your body or your belongings, feel free to do it. But I still canāt recommend it.
Yeah, people do it. People also eat swords. I donāt recommend that, either.
Our Vescs run best at 10s, thats what itĀ“s designed for. At this voltage you have the perfect voltage to current ratio for our application and itĀ“s components.
There is a lot of stuff online for everyone to read into this topic, so everyone is able to select a suiting setup for themselfs.
If you wanna run 13s, thatĀ“s fine, but you should know what could happen
Currently building a board, and need some help with batteries. I have 4 4s 5 Ah lipo packs, and wanted to do an 8s2p setup. Is there a way to charge all of this at once, on the board without having to take everything out? Would I need a bms for that? can a bms do parallel charging like that? Would it be better to have two 8s1p packs instead of one 8s2p?
Also, I am having trouble figuring out how to make an enclosure that is able to open and close easily but is still secure. I also want it to look fairly professional, but unforutnatly im still on a budget. I have a concave board too, so that will make it slightly more difficult. Any suggestions?
Alsoā¦ cough how do you start a thread on this site? For some reason I canāt figure that outā¦ Pretty sure thatās as much of a noob question as it gets
I just joined and I donāt know how to start my own thread, thought I would just ask my question here if thatās okay. I have a landwheel L3 a. I was wondering, Iām pretty sure it uses a 36 volt LiPo batter, and, just like about every review Iāve seen for it, my board shuts off if it has to work too hard to accelerate, especially when the battery is low. Would it be possible for me to switch the battery with my 36 volt li ion battery (from my meepo board) ?? Or would this damage my board?
Iām pretty sure the ESC can handle the same voltage, your problem would be getting cells to fit into that small battery box
This should be fine if you can successfully remove the old battery pack with the BMS and then reconnect the positive and negative leads respectfully. Although there might be some weird circuits in there that needs to be integrated between the BMS or battery, or the software need to be reprogrammed for the specs of the new battery. I doubt thatās the case since theyāre so cheap.
I have a 1/2 inch bore sprocket with a set screw that I want to pair with a 6374 motor with a 8mm shaft with a keyway. What do I need to fill the gap? A bushing?
1/2 inch? Isnāt that like 12-13mm? Just buy a new pulley/sprocket, instead of using the bushing method
Iām having a hard time holding my beer, my blunt, and my boardās remote all at once while riding, making it very difficult for me to party all the way to the party. Does anyone have any advice for this?