Iām tired of these little fucking zh and ph connectors on wires that are always too short or occassionally way too long lol. These things are gonna drive me to learn easyeda so I can do something about it.
If they too long just cut them and crimp a 2mm jst on. If they too shortā¦
I think thatās wrong. I will have her verify it.
Thatās second on my list. longer sensor wires and the correct connector.
I think the values not so wrong. I wrote with maytech a while ago about there unsealed 8085 and they sent me similar specs. But would be great if you non the less will ask once more
PSA: these motors have phase wires that appear to be coated!! While this may be a good thing, soldering to them is a bitch. Any info on this suspicion @hyperIon1 or @EileenMaytech ? I literally spent an hour trying to resolder these connections
Thanks!
Coated, Interestingā¦ I noticed they felt different but I havenāt soldered with them yet. Is it solder? or on the entire wire?
I noticed the wires themselves felt different than my other maytech motors
It appears to be laminated wire all the way to the existing bullet connectors. Iām researching the best/easiest solution atmā¦ which appears to be using solvent to melt the enamel away. Iāll update here tonight when I get home (if Iām able to get it to work lol).
For now, I would advise against cutting these wires unless you are experienced in soldering laminated wires!! Anyone with knowledge of this process, please share!!.
On a similar note, the 5.5mm connectors that come with the motors are the highest quality bullets Iāve ever seen! And the phase wires, while currently irritating me TREMENDOUSLY, seem extremely robust! Really havenāt been this excited in a very long time.
Or frustrated
I think they are just enameled phase wire extending out from the motor. itās best to desolder the existing bullets than cutting them off.
Just found an old thread from @lox897 about that! https://www.electric-skateboard.builders/t/using-asperin-to-remove-enamel-off-motor-wires/7740?u=patrocks
But Iām seeing controversial feedback on the rc forums. Have you done this @JohnnyMeduse ?
Yeah Iāve done it once, because I didnāt had any other choice, did the same mistake as you. It did work but was still a PITA and I suggest to use original Aspirin which work way better than the generic ones.
I really canāt wait to try out these motors. Gotta see if theyāll clear on my hummie deck mounted drop with psychotiller mounts. Otherwise theyāll go on the shuggah deck.
Solvent sucks for this. I read up on this and solder pot seems to be the best method. You can get them pretty cheap or improvise something.
@deucesdown thanks brother! The more Iām reading I would tend to concur. I WILL figure this crap out, possibly tonight and post results asap. Thanks everyone
Iāve had decent luck, with really small enameled wire, with getting a big blob of solder on my biggest soldering iron tip, and dipping the wire.
For solder pots, if you go this way, get the smallest one! The big ones will need more solder, and take more time to heat up and cool down.
I bought the Tenma 150w on Amazon, as it looks a lot more robust than the generic blue and yellow ones. But it has no temperature control, and oh boy it gets way crazy hot. I bought a router speed control from harbor freight ā on the lowest setting itās still about 40w and still too hot, but much better. Sorry, I donāt have a motor lead to test with!
EDIT it ended up costing a chunk, for the 63/37 solder bar, router speed control, and paste flux. But it makes tinning wire ends much much easier if doing a bunch, like custom motor phase wire lengths, or series connections for battery subpacks (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aSIhIGkQOsA)
At this point I am wondering if this should be a split topic, but this magnet wire is tough as hell. Like, insanely tough, Nothing Iāve tried so far has had effect. Scraping, nothing. Soaked in Strip-x overnight, NOTHING. Torch and sandpaper, nada. Just brittle wires.
I tried a make-shift solder bath with a torch and a 5.5 bullet female, and got a possibly viable result, this seems to be the most promising method so far @deucesdown , thanks for that.
A thought occurs however: when the wire is cut, the tip is exposed and conductive. Anyone have an idea as to whether ājust the tipā of a wire is enough for an electrical connection? For this amount of current through a tiny amount of solder?? If it were a copper joint, no doubt, but solder? Kinda wishing I hadnāt cut these, glad I only cut one motorā¦
These wires do speak well of the windings though!! Aināt a thing in the WORLD gonna short them out. F*cking durable insulation.
I wonder if cutting at a steep angle would expose a sufficient amount of wire . I hate it!!
edit: I am failing at this with a freekin 240W weller gun.