I built the first one I got using @Kug3lis gear drive, took it birmingham and @sender proved to me that I cannot be a slouch when securing phase wires :).
The motor cans sucked up the phase wire bundle and shredded it, locking up the motors and @Sender ran it off at 25 mph like frikkin superhero.
It was a cool looking and riding build though. I don’t know if I have any pics of it but Ill look and see.
LOL…send pics
So I’m slow but going to the po with the last of U.S.A. orders now and the replacements for USA orders that were sent back. If u have changed ur dress tell me pronto! But it’s not the worst if wrong address and can be held at the po
I asked dave (with success) to get a six shooter design that works with these hubs. But the files got lost and I’m waiting for a redo or the files to reappear.
Here’s a few shots though:
Hope to get these riding soon. I contacted machining places but they want a step file, and all I have is stl files.
U can convert from stl to step not too hard.
Yea, need to do it though. The idea is simple. So that so inside piece sits and bolts to the motor, instead of the plate bolting to the motor. And then the two pieces join. Though one mistake I see already in the design is I don’t see how the 2 pieces are connected. A bolt and nut can’t be used since it the motor can will be in the way.Maybe we could thread the inside of the bolt holes as a simple solution. But the idea is there.
Please remember though. You’ll likely want a motor closer to 40 kv instead of 80 kv, which is my next project for motors.
The bell be the nut. No nut needed. Loctite.
That would be smart, but it would mean the outside piece would need to be modified still, as those holes (the big ones) don’t line up with the bell’s holes. The small holes on the inside piece do line up.
oo…. yea. only need the holes that then would go through the two plates and the motor and just bolts though them.
Yep, then you just take the bolts off and the whole wheel comes off, easy.
And My plan was to 3d print a piece (that looks like how the cores did) that covers the rest of the motor can. It sorta turns the hummie hub into a direct drive.
with 107mm tires you could do ~32mph w/ 10S or ~40mph with 12S… (sacrificing ~21% peak acceleration compared to the 84mm)
So your saying only 21% less acceleration with 107mm? Sounds like it’s time to make some 107mm wheels…
if we’re starting w/ 84mm:
84mm / 107mm = ~78.5% <- new acceleration 107mm / 84mm = ~127.3% <-new top speed
So still not quite 40mph then…
40mph/30mph = 133.33% <- new top speed 1.333 * 84mm = 111.99mm 1/1.333… = 75% <- new acceleration
Assuming a certain frontal area and air resistance.
your top speed is presently limited by the BEMF and pack voltage, not the wind resistance
At 40 though. And still the wind resistance will be a factor for sure in people’s top speed depending if standing tall or aero n small even now w these wheels. What frontal area are u assuming and what weight rider? I’m sure I could double my wind resistance or halve it by how I stand and it’s the biggest factor at high speed
^w/ 112mm tires, there’s more than enough power for 40mph on flat ground