Overlooked this. This is my friends from energusps modules(also from Lithuania). They are spotwelded and sold ready made with cells. They can make whatever cells you want with if the quantity is right. They have temp sensor integrated and each cell is fused. NESE density falls between Energusps and Vruzend although i don’t think of Vruzend as a solution at all. Too many well known errors implemented. These are high end modules used in Formula E. This is pre-history and the man himself: https://translate.google.com/translate?hl=lt&sl=lt&tl=en&u=http%3A%2F%2Fe-motion.lt%2F2013%2F12%2F12%2Fakumuliatoriaus-blokas-is-18650-cilindriniu-celiu%2F
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There are 2 countermeasures implemented.
- Supplied screws have a spring washer and they are of very good quality made by Japanese.
- Printed screw caps have grooves mimicking spanner socket:
for second stage of unbolting protection: http://18650.lt/index.php/product/twin-bolt-cap/
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I dont have a board. I am more of a 2 wheel person but these are the things i would try:
along with threaded wood inserts:
fitted with some epoxy
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I think that’s a great idea! Would definitely work well for me, I made my modifications to the board already and the cutout is a bit wider then the modules now, so I think using those too mount the NESE Modules would be ideal 
I had found them on McMaster, but to my disappointment they are rated for compression. Not tension.
Cool. I’ll put links to flat mounts soon.
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stl files: https://drive.google.com/open?id=12nsSWwk84cC8EZ4IVN4RpWdnaNB0QHoO
You have to print them vertically, otherwise it might delaminate when stressed too much. Normal loading doesn’t affect it though.
flat deck vs concave deck
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that holder has flex or is it stiff?
flex, that’s why it has that circular region, otherwise it would have been one straight line(that was my first design, very stiff). I could make the circular portion more wiggly too to increase flex further, but from my tests it’s at a sweet-spot.
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How much length does this add to a module? Let’s say my current modules are 100mm in length. What would they be with these added on from end to end?
Hey i just wanted you share the battery i build. 10s4p and works like a charm.
I used Lipo Silicon protector to cushion the battery and then completly put it in heatshrink.
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Cool! What does it look like on the board?
Looked like that last week. I made some mods. Build a tunnelriser in UNIK style and cleaned it up, so no more cables dangling around.
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Great. Looks like doublestacking works on street boards as well.
yep works flawlessly. but this is more like a prototype. once i have my stuff i will get a stiff deck and make a flat pack.
Since I am using the NESE copper tabs in this mod, I thought it would be relevant to post it here too: More details at: https://www.electric-skateboard.builders/t/my-compression-pack-design-gauging-interest/67878/143?u=mishrasubhransu
I really like your design. It’s perfect for two rows of cells style, but if your wanting to orient the cells the other way I think that would be quite difficult.
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It’s mostly assembled on my board. I have to flip cells from +ve to -ve to use a short cable from battery to DieBieMS. @agniusm, I was wondering if you realized that was a problem?
Of course, I still have to crimp the balancing wires, route it nicely and take it to DieBieMS.
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I love how you secured these to your deck! I know the designs of them were already shown and discussed, but seeing it actually assembled and mounted on the deck… Looks pretty great… They don’t add that much extra width as I thought they would, so I think I’m gonna do that too 
What were you saying about having to swap positive and negative wires btw?
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I too have no idea what problem there is