If you use braided copper as all the contacts and are willing to sacrafice an extra 2cm on each side you can have sprung locks so they all pop out the side when you flip the tabs…it’s be a paint to print and one end of each cell has to be on the edge of the board but its possible
Actually, I beg to differ. NESE modules are perfect for removing and replacing cells. You can’t do that with welded cells, super annoyit with vruzend, or the ones using standoffs.
And also in comparison, removing the entire module is rather difficult when compared to removing the cells.
What u think is going to happen?
Never found epdm tension fatigue numbers to compare to poron but at least will be able to see how the bands are holding up periodically. 
Same weight as 12 awg but still a bit flexible. It’s all flexible. 21x74
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Just i quesiton, when using copperbars, is there a chance of corrosion?
Maybe for some environments but my stuff sits for years still looks the same. You can plate it pretty easily. Or maybe even dip it and scratch off the coating on the tab.
ok, i read that on endless sphere, but i guess they have them outside in the humidity
How is the CR10S PRO going? I bought one and it’s just full of problems (mainly faulty bed leveling sensor, warped bed). I spent too many hours trying to get consistent prints out of it and I finally decided to return it and I got the Prusa MK3S Kit(New version just came out a couple of days ago). Will miss the large printing bed but the consistency is more important. Hope yours is printing good.
I haven’t gotten to test print anything yet. This weekend though. NESE seems like a simple enough first print.
It is easy but won’t tell you too much. If you don’t have 3d print experience start with test model for shrinking, cubes for preslcision and under or over extrusion. I would be surprise if the machine comes perfectly set it. Plus for each filament run a temperature tower to find the right temp for printing then start adjust your profile to reach the best results.
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Yeah, it’s a learning experience. In the end you know more about 3d printer than just an end user. As a DIYer, I am glad I had those issues and learned to recognize the problems and fix them.
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This particular model (CR10S Pro) has some inherited issues that can’t be tweaked short of buying new parts. e.g.: ABL sensor is inaccurate to 0.7mm, bed is warped. A small percentage of people (e.g.: Youtube reviewers) got non-faulty units but most are facing the same problems on user groups. Definitely learned a lot from it but the Prusa MK3S kit is a lot more geared towards DIYers.
Sorry for the off-topic. I will print these modules for my next build!
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My first and only printer is a mk3 and I’ll say I’ve spent an unbelievable amount of time troubleshooting things. So Prusa is most likely tons better but still has the feeling of being enslaved by the printer! 
@mikenyc for initial calibration/troubleshoot, try to use good quality filament.
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Quick question. Is there any reason why printing this out of PLA is bad? The one I printed seems plenty sturdy. I’m sure PETG is a better option, just wondered
pla is brittle, so when it brakes it just fall apart. PLus PLA doesn’t held temperature as well as PETG and ABS
Man, we got batteries and we are gonna test your modules. Could you make a 3p version? maybe also 2s3p if the module with the wall separation is done for the 2s4p. Thanks a lot!
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Also pla under tension will deform over time.
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hummie how do these modules go for fitting in your deck? would you recommend them of spot welded?
So PETG is the ideal filament for these then?
I believe PETG is recommended. ABS is 2nd, but it’s a real pain to print and can also be brittle.
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Yeah I’ve printed both and I’d prefer petg for the dimensional accuracy and ease of printing. Thanks yo
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