I just removed the idlers from the mounts, they’re fine otherwise
Why does it matter where you place the idler pulley. and how do you find this place
Placement affects angle of the belt, as well as which pulley it’s actually affecting
could you not just guess 
I went ahead and set this up, belts skipped more than before, just took them off after a day
Guessing is what every idler mount I’ve tried is doing, it doesn’t work, there is an engineering principal to how idlers work
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Ah thats way to confusing ill just leave it ye?
Yeah ide stay away unless you feel like fiddling with the drive train daily and never being happy. Like I said somebody needs to properly engineer it, show it works and accomplishes the task of idler, if you have to run your belt tighter with idler than without, it does not work
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Ok hahaha to confusing for me
…mine work fantastically well. No heat in my belts, no heat in the bearings, no comparison to the way my board performed without them. I started this thread BECAUSE of the success I have had with the idlers. I researched, measured, modded, and tested it. HARD.
The reason my configuration works is because of the length of the motor plate, and the proximity of the idler pulley to the motor pulley.
@Deckoz The more I’ve thought about it, the more I appreciate the cleverness of your config. It’s a brilliant way to get the angle of the belt as close as possible to the motor pulley.
@scepterr Dude, it really sucks to hear that you are having so much trouble with your configuration. I understand how frustrating it can be to screw around with that shit all day.
@Boardnamics your mount would work better if the idler slot was closed (for structure) or fixed position, with adjustable motor position, and a longer (CTC) plate.
@Orin635 The location of the pulley needs to be slack-side, as close to the motor as possible to allow wheel clearance, engage as many M-Pulley teeth as possible, without over-bending (stressing) the belt. Sounds complicated, but if you think about it, and read: …you’ll understand the idea.
Also, wtf? just because this idea doesn’t work in certain configurations, doesn’t mean it doesn’t work at all! I layed out my wheels, gears, pulleys and motor-can, and marked it all before I came up with the Idler mount location. Then I measured again, and drilled. Easy-money
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Totally.
I just want to buy one that works with my gears and wheels 
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I dont even need a wheel…
I have no belt skip and my belt is looser then everyone here ^ proof in gif lol
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I think dual idlers in the motor bolts is the future of idlers. dead simple and engages tons more teeth on the motor pulley
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wait what? are we in bizarro world? everything you just said is opposite.
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Running them on the motor screws is a really good idea. Problem is though that they’re not adjustable so I think it would only work with certain motor pulley sizes. The ratio of the pulley size to bolt pattern would be very sensitive and fixed.
I run a 16T which is the limit for size… Who runs bugger then 16T? I see most run in the range of 13-16T
That’s my dilemma I expected the opposite, it’s just not something I want to diy, if somebody makes a setup and shows it works I’ll grab it in a heartbeat
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i’d much rather have a mount that works really well with a certain setup than a mount that kinda works with a lot of setups
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Best idea I have seen
Could you share what size bolt and collar you use for this setup?
Thanks!