V2 might be smaller possibly utilizing intermediate to further reduce the wheel spur size, while maintaining a proper pitch length for strength.
This should enable 90mm wheels to run with my current clearance on 107s. Or 97 to run with more clearance than I have currently, and of course 107s to have the most.
There have been possible talks of add on adapter options, to be able to switch urethane, and 5 spoke hubs, as well as additional options for lubrication, such as lubrication ports, or even a flooded gear box. It’s all up in the air. You know as much as I do…
I just know @Kug3lis is going to try to bring the DIY community the only commercially available gearbox(so far) and is making improvements so we all can have something more reliable, and really take our boards into the “everyday commuter ultimate reliability” zone. Sure this may be a bit of an over zealous comment… but really the end goal here is a board that is a tank that takes all the abuse we throw at it?
Guess I’m starting to sounds like @b264, although this board has never broken down, I feel like there is so much more that could make this whole system more of a whole and less of a thrown together parts?
Tl:Dr, reliability for the win, any way of increasing reliability is the future.
Eh there’s a company out there that has a commercial gear drive ready but I have to wait and see how they’re dear drive works out before asking them if it’s okay to share with the builders forum
No not Jed, another one that’s commercially available but for right now only on the low. Don’t know if they’ll expand over to the builders site , but I want to see how their drives check out first before unleashing the beast that is the forum on them.
@Eboosted thanks man! Hearing that from you is awesome. Watching your videos on YouTube is what brought me here and started building in the first place. So thanks man!
Similar to my 4s quads that can fly all year, vs my 6&7s quads that are for cooler seasons, and melt motors in the summer.
With powerful builds come complications. Low reduction, high voltage, high amps, and hot days don’t mix.
Batteries sitting around 90F give off amps like a charm, and stay cool(90-100f) duing heavy discharge due to their lowered IR. Focboxes dumping heat into their case and the extra aluminum plate mass I added.
But even with airflow, motors get hot, demagnetizing starts, and you can feel it in the roll.
Laser temp gun shows:
99F cells
113F Focboxes(same in app)
158F motors.
Hmmm, without giving up performance, I think it’s time to find some water cooled motors for the summer heat.
I’ve been waiting for this moment…
5694’s in about 800(SSS)/850kv(hobbystar) is the bottom of the range. The 850’s are a bit heavier & rated for less voltage and come with a cnc case with cooling fins. Inrunners should cool more efficiently as the copper is in contact with the case. That said I think they stand up to being over-volted pretty well. The castle inrunners say they can be run at 12s, SSS at 60v.
If you go up to 56112 there is a hobbystar that will do 53v/580kv
Thing is all these motors are heavier, 1050g for the hobbystar 94’s, 1150g for the 112’s. The thing with water cooling is it will add weight & you might just be better off adding more copper and air cooling it?
I think you might need to go down to smaller 40mm motors to make the water cooling work, you can find sensored motors in that size too