Going cooler seems counter-intuitive (I think), but will give it a shot. Thanks for the tip.
4 more to go then it’s lids, then fun with SainSmart TPU for the caps, for which despite the Bondtech extruder, still misfeeds if I print faster than 60mm/s, and I can’t get 1st layer to stick reliably unless i go 10mm/s. And strings like mad.
Update on the underextrusion glitch. I disconnected USB, and printed from SD card (I got a FlashAir card at least). Glitched on 2nd print. So it’s the beta firmware or the slicer’s start/end gcode. I can get back on octoprint.
Believe it or not I’m trying to keep things simple. Wasn’t going to use even Octoprint but with all the failures I needed remote webcam, and had a Pi lying around, and Prusa has a modified octopi image… Staying in the ecosystem at least gives me some decent starting points for configs and such.
I was under the impression that it happened from excess heat as it tries to maintain 100c throughout the print and overshoots a bit, especially right over the heating elements
I think the theory is, each successive layer above the heated bed gets a bit colder, and shrinks a bit more. Making the bed hotter keeps more of the lower layers from cooling and shrinking, moving the shrink stress higher.
All confused and curious now. I’ll try what you suggested, and also try bed heat 120, I believe that’s my max. I can also try like 5 layer high mouse ears in addition to the brim. But maybe all this would be a waste – an enclosure is probably the better thing to try. Just a bit scared of flames.
My box is not a great model, you may need to slightly enlarge the lid groove, also I get a strange filet from each of the corner bolsters, but it’s workable.
I had a little package arrive from beltingonline a whiles back and since my printer is being a bitch again I needed a switch of activity.
Introducing tool steel, it’s what should go into the keyway you find in an APS motor, which was another reason for the order…10mm motor pulleys are not common.
Anyway you can buy a keyway for about €3.5 or you can roll your own it’s not hard, a dremel or hacksaw and a file is all you need. This bar would make keyways for a dozen or so motors, a small vice is handy
BTW, @deucesdown, have you tried abs juice? Get some acetone, put some abs scraps, same colour, mix it until dissolved, should be still watery, not thick, brush it onto the bed and you shouldn’ need even a brim. Although i print on pei and that stuff made it stick so well that i ripped my pei, mostly my fault not letting it cool down.
Slight mod with additional reinforcement ring on the fan blades and plenty of cooling to the end, not a great print as those holes should be hexagonal, it’s printed in carbonfill. The printer is being a bitch with her thermocouple.
2nd vesc repaired and running, needs the cappcb installed and phase sorted for the @3DServisas case, getting closer on this one.
Oh and I’m learning through failure on the ups and downs of drv replacements, this time I managed to free another solder pad from its moorings but a LCD microscope really helped getting it back in place. I salvaged a couple of caps I managed to blow off with hot air from the Miami vesc I got from @Martinsp which I subsequently butchered with an angry drv repair, never repair
Dont give up on the repair! Some pads are not connected to anything, those are the ones that easily come off. You can check that in the schematic. If you are interested in giving it another shot post a pic id be interested to see.
BTW the miami VESC uses DRV8301 even though it is based on 4.12 HW
Love the board, have to get myself a drop down deck one of these days.
Thanks Martin I’ll take a look again but it’s on the bottom of the priority list right now, I have a feeling I completely buggered the pcb, being a custom design there is nothing for it but harvesting component, will post a pic from the microscope…maybe I could scratch the trace and join something…so involved!
And I have an enclosed printer
