Great! You’re looking at 20cm pack end placed to another, this MBS board is a massive 26cm across so room to go 12s6p if I go nuts! Sneak preview with wire and carbonfill case top
The measurement you’ve pointed at above is 2cm
Great! You’re looking at 20cm pack end placed to another, this MBS board is a massive 26cm across so room to go 12s6p if I go nuts! Sneak preview with wire and carbonfill case top
The measurement you’ve pointed at above is 2cm
thank you!
google failed to turn up easy to buy 4.7mm stainless steel strap. So like you I’m thinking wire. I have some safety wire and a ClampTite:
My wire is steel so it’ll rust. But I have a bunch… Can maybe switch to S/S if the steel wire’s no good.
2mm pvc coated (mine was 2mm inc. coating) - it fits best…3mm is too thick
Clamptite huh? I used thimbles (the metal eye) and a duplex clamp, they are matched to wire gauge. The thimble will be held down by a deck mounted bolt with a countersunk washer over it
Haha cracked open the toolchest, my wire is:
I gotta say it really doesn’t “feel” like stainless steel.
I can just get 4 strands into the cavity. 0.041" is 1.04mm.
Your stuff looks quite a bit more robust, stranded and coated? My stuff is just one strand of pretty ductile solid wire.
Stainless Stranded and pvc coated yup 2mm Inc pvc jacket here’s the duplex fittings on it and I made some caps for polarity dummies like me
I’m starting to enjoy this flexible filiment, not only the caps but I get a new iPhone cover and a USB port cap for the bms case
The wanhao duplicator 4 is held together with a mixture of zip ties and contempt…maybe a little spittle too
I frikkin love that
I know you feel my pain I see a creality cr10 in my future!
Get riding this!!! I want to know if those pack things by @agniusm work as well as i think/hope they will I also don’t yet know of anyone who’s actually using this awesome BMS on their board, so interested to see if there’s any niggles on that too.
I’m trying! But I have to mix with other things going on
So I got ahold of this magical ABS from HK. Not having a good time printing it, even with the mightly Prusa I3 MK3! Might use up the whole spool trying to get this done
The lids print okay for the most part. But the case warps and pulls the corners off the PEI bed.
Tried printing 2 of the cases at once, with a 8 layer brim. Curled up in the center about 70% of the way through, and somehow finished printing with a nice slope.
Did you print them one at a time? I can fit six on the bed, but chances of getting that to print successfully are pretty low I think.
And I was using 255/100 for temperatures. I’ll try your numbers on the next run.
Maybe try putting on ‘ears’ on the corners, I printed one at a time, they do like to curl, in using a glass bed btw, temp can be high 230s bed around 100 for the HK glow abs, print one at a time for sure
I think BK my magnet version is without ears
They are not without imperfections I’m a cad noob
Thanks for all the info, it’s helping.
So far I have 2 good ones and 5 bad. After the 1st good one, tried for 2 at once. I think it fails because the parts have more time to cool. Singles it is.
I printed at 101% – batteries are way tight in there especially the ones on the edges due to the slight curling. I’m thinking about going to 102%.
For the good ones I printed at 230/105, 2 bottom layers (I read the more solid the layer, the more it shrinks), and a brim 10 wide.
The bad ones, the corner curling makes the slot for the metal tabs too small.
I printed a bed attached camera arm out of this color change ABS. Hehe it’s quite amusing seeing the color change near the heated bed.
The nese packs worked for me at 101% don’t use fish paper it’s not needed
For the stainless straps you can use these: https://m.aliexpress.com/item/32811161327.html?trace=wwwdetail2mobilesitedetail&productId=32811161327&productSubject=10pcs-4-6x1200mm-4-6-1200mm-Latching-Self-Locking-Stainless-Steel-Zip-Cable-Tie-Lock-Tie&spm=2114.search0204.3.2.4aff092bV6taEO&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_2_10065_10068_10344_10342_10343_10340_10341_10084_10083_10618_10307_10615_10303_10302_10313_10059_10534_100031_10103_441_10624_442_10623_10622_10621_10620_10142,searchweb201603_40,ppcSwitch_5_ppcChannel&algo_expid=7644ba9e-aad1-4325-9f9e-14e8ed204daa-0&algo_pvid=7644ba9e-aad1-4325-9f9e-14e8ed204daa&priceBeautifyAB=5 These are the longest i found. For printing abs, try to use large cardboard box. Even a trash bag over the printer helps.
IKEA plastic box is clear and cheap
Thanks guys.
I’m back on 5 bottom layers, reducing that didn’t make much difference.
I’ve still got some lifting in the corners but the brim keeps things down, and I think the result is not perfect but okay.
I’ve got this thing though, where every few prints, it underextrudes like crazy. Reset the printer, and it goes back to normal. I’ve been using octoprint and the latest beta firmware, maybe it’s some interaction. So annoying! But now that I know what’s happening I can watch and abort early.
The tightness I was getting, I think I sliced those at 100% doh! the 101% guys fit much better.
I think I can get the rest out without using an enclosure. 3 hours per tray!
The bands, thanks for the link, that helps a ton. Non mobile link:
“stainless steel zip tie” on amazon (US) turns up good hits. This link doesn’t show dimensions, but there’s a tightening tool. Looks like one way trip, like a zip tie
https://www.amazon.com/14-Stainless-Steel-Cable-Ties/dp/B077BKTM7K
Try astroprint also a print server on a Pi
It’s intuitive
You can reuse a zip tie if you know how and are careful
Have you tried lowering bed temp after the base layers are printed? I start at 100 and drop to 90 for the rest of the print