After reading the whole thread, the only picture in my head is a 3D printer printing cocaine straws
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ooo oooo oooo some kind of butt sweat irrigation system for leathers, man it just pools at the top of the crack, you know?
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Must be nice in Florida, up here it’s winter. None of that sweating stuff for a while…
Hobbit stilts for LHB?
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So put silicone in a cup or something, put the print in, wait for it to dry, then I’ll have a mold?
pretty much. the details are easy. with such a simple part and able to do it as a one-part mold makes it much easier. check out smooth-on.com or bjbenterprises’ videos. Troy is a member here, pylonflier I think, and he does bjb’s videos. fun stuff.
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a full Nylon face mask for @Jezzalinko’s speed runs
don’t worry about eye holes, he doesn’t need to see anything just to go in a straight line.
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For the swappable battery enclosure on my board, they switched from ABS to nylon for the top piece, shown in the pic. The rest of the enclosure is anodized aluminum. This nylon piece is pretty tough. Much stronger than the ABS which broke previously.
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I had to get towards the end to find the enclosure. I actually put together a box yesterday that I was thinking about wrapping in fiberglass. I was going to line the inside edges in wood, now I’m thinking I could probably print something. Insert some t-bolts (?) in them and put screws in from the top of the board straight into the enclosure.
Yeah typically with nylon you want to dry it out like crazy because it has a high tendency to absorb a lot of moisture. If you see any steam coming out of the nozzle while you’re printing it’s really bad because the little pockets of steam will make your print bumpy and make the layers not adhere well. Depending on the specific nylon formula it’s more or less of a problem but good to either keep the stuff in a dehumidifier (food ones I’ve seen used) or put it in an oven for like 6 hours at 200 degrees F. Only issue with the oven is the spool probably isn’t made of nylon if you have a full spool so you want to just cut off as much as you expect to print with (plus extra just in case) and then dry that out off the spool (or else you end up with warped spool and probably nasty fumes in your place). You also typically need to print at much slower speeds with it for the extruder to keep up and for everything to be nice and solid… would just do some small test prints so you can stress test them to see what they can handle.
Wheel pulleys should be fine I made a few motor pulleys one held up for a few months and eventually tore through the part where I put the locking screws through it the teeth were fine.
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I currently run nothing but Nylon printed wheel pulleys. 200 miles and no sign of wear. It’s a little tough to get it to stick to the print bed but AIrwolf3d makes some pretty good print bed stuff specifically for Nylon. I get cheap Nylon filament from Micro Center. It only comes in Natural.
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It was a sample so it wasn’t on a spool. Also it was packaged in a sealed bag with those drying things that come in shoes. I’ve wasted probably 1/5th of the roll due to sticking issues. But thanks for the advice. I wish I asked for advice before attempting to print it.
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That’s what I wanted to hear lol. Thanks
Yeah I mean some of this kind of stuff you just have to experiment with it too even with some tips it always take some fiddling depending on your printer.
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I’m using Alloy 910 from Taulman and although i don’t have experience printing pure nylon, i didn’t run into the typical nylon related problems at all. I can only recommend this filament.
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I found it there for $15. Sweet
Storing it in a sealed container with rice or even cat litter “unused of course” will soak up any moisture.
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