22ga catheter and syringe. Just the smooth plastic part, threw needle away.
Any technique for moving the floss through the cells? I really want to do this, but I’m afraid of messing up cells.
Work on a towel and use a stupid amount of goo gone. I’ve seen a few other folks show off final product.
I kinda got the feeling that if I was pulling hard enough to hurt fingers with floss, I was pulling hard enough To mare the cell.
Nice! I like ur balance wiring. I’ve been looking for how to get a 6s plug hooked up. How’d u do it? I still have t found a video on how to get the wires in or out of those plugs.
@Arzamenable nice work! welcome to the club!
@Hummie you just have to push the pins into the plastic…
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Here is the finished product. That red doodad is an antispark. Maybe overkill, but I hate sparks. This will probably power a simple board for my special lady friend.
Thanks again to @lowGuido and @longhairedboy et al. for posting your work.
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You’re very welcome!
I hope your lady friend enjoys it. One of these days i’m going to build a kid friendly one with a top end around 10-15mph and a slower acceleration.
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@barajabali, @lowGuido, @longhairedboy or anyone else who’s done this, can you provide a name or link of the solder paste/flux whatever that you like to use? I know @barajabali showed some “solder-it” paste, and linked to some solder wire, that was supposedly much better, but pretty expensive (~$33). I only need to solder the tab that blew when I shorted my battery, but I don’t know anything about this stuff or what’s good, and would like to spend less on the repair than I did on the battery.
Thanks!
So I decided to give it a go. I used rubbing alcohol, since it has a similar affect in break down the glue, and quetips.
There’s absolutely no tears/cuts in the cells, but they don’t look the best. Do you guys think these will be ok, or did I fuck them up? @longhairedboy @Arzamenable
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You could try using some goo gone!
http://www.amazon.com/Goo-Gone-Original-Cleaner-oz/dp/B00006IBNJ?ie=UTF8&Version=1&entries=0
It’s perfectly fine
Probably fine, but it should be almost painfully slow to seperate them
I’m sure many are familiar, but if you aren’t, I thought I’d mention that you can buy single Lipo cells for $7.34usd from hobbyking as an alternative to separating a pack.
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/_18560__Turnigy_5000mAh_1S_20C_Lipoly_Single_Cell.html
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but they cost more… 12S @ 8$ each is $96. You can buy 4S for ~$20- 26 each and that totals less than $75
cost of shipping from hobbyking is included
Just wondering: how long does it take to separate all the cells on 3*4S packs? I would estimate the time needed and the bottles of goo gone you would need are worth more than 20$.
I love to see someone make a flat lipo pack similar to the space cell implementing a BMS and a battery meter.
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Multistar lipo do not have glue between each cells (i believe). I had no problem to desolder one cell from my 6S pack.
yeah my multistar were not glued together, but there was a plastic around the outside that I used a plastic spatula and goo remover to separate…
Someone asked me in one of these threads to report back: the 16ah packs are not glued either! It’s 4s2p.
Nice size. 5mm thick each
Seeing as there are two cells for every battery balance wire you’re really only monitoring both cells as a unit and also only able to balance the two and not the single as would be ideal…makes me want to put all my cells in parallel when not riding or charging. Just let them all balance each other. … And now I’m remembering why people don’t do this: all the series connections would have to be broken otherwise zoinks.
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I would buy singles. It was kinda harrowing clipping apart the nickel connectors in tight space.
… And then there is the fact that the half mutilated terminals don’t solder well without aluminum fluxed type solder.
Do it for kicks if you gottem kicking around, but I wouldn’t start out on a shiny new build with this as a basis.
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