I really have no need for 4wd, I just want to know what the real-world diff is 
Iâll settle on a 2wd that works best
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Dayum. I can barely hit 160lbs when trying hard to gain weight⌠
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weâre seeing all kinds of fun things happening around 40mph. Not so much temporal distortion, but handling gets interesting. Especially on that junker test platform Jakeâs riding around on at 13S. My decks seem more stable at those speeds than that ebay clone. The Popocas are amazing at those speeds, topped out Ru at 38mph in a mostly sort of tuck and she stayed super stable. Probably could have gotten more out of a full tuck and charge but i was only playing with the wheels.
weâre not really interested in pursuing speeds above that because its basically useless for anything other than limit breaking technology. Weâre more interested in getting everything reliable at those speeds, and the issues arenât with electronics and overheating. Theyâre with ergonomics and vibration damping.
When we start trying to have a board that can do all of this cool stuff mine do and do 60mph reliably, it stretches the product too thin. You lose things in places you need them, like low end torque for example. The 40mph mark is actually a good upper limit for high end boards (commissioned or production) in my opinion because it allows for a crazy traffic meshing high end in neighborhood and inner city areas as well as bike paths, etc, but also still gives you a lot of power on the low end, and can actually create a more pleasant to handle board because of the way the motors have to react to the low end on a higher ratio. It also puts the motors efficiency zone squarely in the reasonable distance cruising speed zone.
Too fast is when the desire for speed begins to take away from the entire experience of the board. To fast means too little startup torque and too little granular control of the throttle, and too little of a âregular i just want to ride it around a lotâ board.
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68 mph (108,8 kmh) is roughly the top speed Mischo Erban reached during his 2015 world record on ngvâs e-board prototype. Here is the video of this record : https://youtu.be/XptB3rC7EZs
So it looks like they built exactly what they say on their site : âweâve taken the high speed thrill and passion of downhill longboarding and made it accessible on flat groundâ. Furthermore their three speed options (see spec page), roughly match the speed levels of the DH community : 55 kmh = basic, 75 kmh = national, 100 kmh = international. And you can slide this ngv board (with slide gloves), as people do in dh to slow down at speed. If you add the carbon deck and dh precision trucks to manage vibration dampening at speed, plus the 70 mm contact patch (e-)wheels, youâve got in my opinion the ultimate e-board for dh people, or for e-riders who want to develop dh skills. But of course, for downtown commuting / street skating, this board may not be the best option : forget tight and light turns with these large wheels and trucks, itâs low profile is not really pavement friendlyâŚ
EDIT : this ngv board looks now like the one from Revoll : http://revoll.eu/cn-1/ So maybe they have shared knowledge to build this impressive solutionâŚ
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298mph. The point urethane wheels no longer work.
For those hitting 35+mph, what types and duro bushings are you using?
Double barrels are the general consensus.
Blood orange, venom, rad, riptide are good brands.
85a Durometer and above is suitable for most people above 120lbs.
I ride 86/89a blood orange barrels and have 0 issues with stability above 40mph and they still turn a ton at low speed. Trucks can make a big difference as well, pivot cups too.
Double barrels mostly yeah. Tall barrels to be precise. (most precision trucks use tall bushings).
If you really go crazy 20-30 degree baseplate in the back and even dominator /stimulator bushings. Means your back truck is almost dead. For those days where you believe 100% in yourself and are pushing 100+ (km/h)
+1 with you for barrels and trucks : typical dh truck setup is 20-30 degree on the rear truck and 40-50 on the frontâŚor go for the âcroninsâ ( ronin cast trucks) with their builtin kingpin (I personally tight a little bit more my rear cronin truck). All this makes real differences when you reach 35+ mph.
Cronins are decent for sure. Super beefy, you canât kill them, and good price point for getting started. Love my pro lights though. So many baseplate options and just fits my riding style perfectly, felt heaps better to me than k4, sabre, vortex or beefcakes.
Hononorable mentions: kodiaks surprised me quite a bit, ran a few events with them, super solid for turny courses and crazy value for the money. Same goes for Rogue (cast even), seriously impressed how much stability ,lean and control you get out of this cast truck. Got a few sets so I made a board for my neighbour and a fun set up for myself. And dayum son call me impressed. Those things shred hard for 30$/piece. Throw on your favourite bushings, sleeved+cupped washer bottom and sleeved on top and you got yourself an almost precision dream for about 38-45$ a piece. The insert bushing and double talls makes it the biggest surprise in the truck departement for me. Still not the same as pro lights or kodiaks but unbeat in that price range. Honestly it is at such a price point that I think it should push out calibers as our main truck imao.
yeah 6mm offset is a lot, makes them dive heaps unless you flipâem. well at least too much for my taste. I like a stable flat center with progressive turn. did you try a different pivot tube?
venom double barrels in the back, 94a, loose and snappy. Venom barrel and a different cone in the front, softer durometer, cranked down slightly. Wish i could recall the durometers on the front but its mixed. I have a 94a barrel underneath and a softer stock caliber cone on top. The softer one is the one i have forgotten the durometer of.
took me about a year to work my ankles up to this but it was so worth it. I can swerve in response to an object at reflex speeds and it just snaps back into position with no wobble. Carving back and forth at high speeds is also pleasant, as well as cornering.
Yep, sweet set up.
Just out of curiousity since you like playig with new stuff, have you ever tried these. Pretty sweet since you get adjustable bases on almost any trucks. Also mayby just for shits annd giggles try trucks with double tall bushings. If you ever got a mout to fit Rogue trucks, put them in 48/35, put in your favourite bushings in a tall setting, get a sleeved wacher on top and you will be blown away.
Really sucks that we have such expensive electric components but are stuck using sloppy cast trucks.
I think any of the precision truck market could make a killing if they just machined motor mounts as a part of the the truck, would be better than any welded or clamped motor mounts.
I sold my Ronin Prolites a while back, wish I could have used them instead of calibers. Spaceable axles would be super beneficial switching between pneumatics and smaller wheels as you could offset wheelbite and adjust your setup infinitely. AGGGH.
this is sweet. You could adjust the front and back separately and allow for completely different handling characteristics with the twist of a hex keyâŚ
nooooo you sold prolites, what a crime. I love mine soo much.
And yeah I agree 1,5k build on 22$ trucks. But seriously Try a set of rogues, with sleved washers they feel suuper close to precisionâs. Honestly I think Rogues should become our standard truck (or bear kodiaks). Both super worth it. Full precision may be a bit overkill dutue the riding style doesnât justify them for most esk8 riders.
yeah exactly. Honnestly 48 in front is perfect having the backtruck changable is pure bliss. Wanna cruise aroud from bar to bar with friends. Put in slowmode annd put em on 48 and carve around. Want to go for a serious ride sessionn fast mode and 35 it is.
Have been playing around a lot lately with rather affordable trucks. Got so many friends joinig in at freeriding and need a kick ass set up but for cheap since we are all students. Used calibers mostly for their set ups, occasionaly going for cronins. But once I got a few sets of rogues and rode them myself I am amazed. Found also that most reviews are with me in questionning their pricing. The trucks are way to cheap for the performance. 1 to 1 the same build up as their precisions, innsert bushings seats with double talls makes them superior than any truck I have ever come across in that price segment by a loooong shot. (Annd I tried pretty much all of them except some exotic onnes).
If I only were in the states, I would send you a set and a baseplate to play arounnd for a few months.
one day i will machine my own trucks. I canât wait for that day.
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So you would prefere Rogue instead of Cronins??
absolutely. Cronins are awesome for those who like them. I used them and it just didnât feel right. You need harder bushings than with other trucks for the same effect. And even though cronins have amazing lean they felt dead and donât come back at all. Also they lak dive and livelyness for me.
I will actually try how far I feel comfortable with rogues, but so far not a single instance where I thought I âonlyâ had casts under my feet. Sure kodiaks /prolites/vortex feel smoother and better overall, but I mean thats 600.- vs 70.-.