I could have a single PCB available but no more packs. I have to check it on Wednesday when I’m back to home…
wil u ever get more?
btw is ther any one i can sell the full woring ting from?
Maybe - not easy to source things getting closer to Xmas time…
great! Will do that, thx janos 
@TarzanHBK @DeathCookies @Tarzan @kovjanos
While waiting for my new Mosfet drivers to arrive (I shorted mine 
) I had the idea to get rid of the big foot switch and replace it with a switch at the fingertips.
Used a cheap microswitch like this one:
http://www.sf-ersatzteile.de/out/pictures/master/product/1/dsc_0038.jpg
and attached it to the electrode via double sided tape. Allows for a much smaller total footprint of the spot welder - and is also cheaper and easier to get than the foot switch.
Just thought you might want to know for your builds.
Thx Daniel, i got @kovjanos set with a small footswich, which feels really good to work with.
I still have to finish my Spotwelder, then i will report back here about how good it works 
My fets shorted as well after five welds. Are you building this bypass seen on endless sphere?
I included the TVS diode but could not get it to work with the schottky. With the schottky everytime i applied a pulse the arduino would seemingly stop working (status LED did not turn off anymore, pulse time display stopped alternating between digits and no additional pulses could be fired). I removed the schottky and think that the TVS diode is at least better than nothing. Worked like a charm for my first custom 4S Liion battery. I replaced the NiCd battery in my electric drill - no more memory effect 
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Anyone tried using a LiPo battery instead of the car battery? I have 2 3S 5000mAh 35-70C that on paper should provide sufficient current with them in parallel
I got told from the creator of the adruino spotwelder that you will need about 300A. It could be even less but he advises this number.
How thick is your Aluminium under your fets guys?
I think I used like 4-6mm
Mine is only 3 mm
hmm i think i´ll up that to 4mm then…
how did you solve your problem with welds beeing too loose?
Having the same problem, tried it on a car battery, setting to 20 mS Puls, so FULLPOWA, but could still remove the 2 welded 0,15mm nickel strips by hand…
Does someone else has a solution for this?
Would be good to set puls to something like 10 mS and get good results, to have a bit more room for thicker things with up to 20 mS, instead I´m already having problems with 20 mS
How big is your battery? And is it new? It seems to be low current
I tested it on two old 45Ah car batteries, first with one - too low, then with the other one connected in parallel to ensure more current - still too low (ok both are a bit old…) So I hooked up two 3s 30C Lipos in parallel to test it with them - worked much better, but it´s still possible to get them apart by hand. So I think i´ll try it with my current, fresh battery if that works better…
My welds are solid at like 14ms. Putting pressure on the tips also gives me better results - I don’t know how hard you have been pushing them down on the tabs. Maybe some of your mosfets are broken? First thing I would try is a fresh (and powerful) battery though. I used a brand new one when I did my packs.
so you had problems at first with 20mS, used a new battery and now it works with 14mS?