Car bearings have much much more resistance but doesn’t matter since then weight of the car overcomes that resistance very easily.
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If you could enclose a regular bearing where it won’t see dirt, grime or water it would make the bearing last along time but I don’t seen that as feasible.
They said they could get meta seals at first I said that wouldn’t work but now thinking about it they may work? Just not sure how you would take them out to re grease.
In a car you don’t take the bearings apart to regrease them. You just replace them when they start making noise after 100k miles.
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So would metal shields work because they said they could do that
Metal “shields” are not as effective as rubber “seals”. There are rubber "shields " (bones and zealou… pretty much all skate bearings) and rubber “seals” (fishing-reel bearings, rc bearings, industrial bearings and etc.). For most, shields may be good enough. For me, there’s no question that seals are the only option.
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I’d like to see how these would work for you @b264 Look at this on eBay http://www.ebay.com/itm/140876196404
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Metal shields (standard 608zz bearing) effectively do nothing. It is marginally better than an unshielded bearing, but it won’t do anything to keep sand or dust out.
As you can see, this bearing is not stepped. No skate bearings are, actually. (that I’ve found)
This kind of seal is what you want.
ANY one of these three configurations will be MUCH better than ANY skate bearing.
Unless you can get an actual sealed bearing then I see no point in selling a “new” bearing.
Anything short of having real seals will just end up being marketing hype for “advanced” materials to make a bearing that’s going to wear out just as quickly as any other premium 608 bearing.
Grease doesn’t really matter that much, so long as it has grease it’s probably fine. Keeping out crap is the most important thing for our harsh environments.
Ask your manufacturer for a “heavy contact rubber seal engaging with a stepped inner race.”
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So you want a labyrinth seal. I will ask them if they have a labyrinth type of seal.
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I am just curious, how often do you guys replace bearings?
I am at 1000km with my SKF bearings without problems. I understand that weather have large influence in bearings longevity… Here its mostly dry, so I guess it add to the lifespan of mine…
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You simply got a good brand from the start.
@briman05 Bearings “tech” is way overrated given all the benefits from precision roll etc are overdone by all the radial forces we apply on them. (Simply standing on your board makes the benefits null, wheel quality and diameter have a much higher impact on your ride)
What’s important however is : is a bearing rigid enough around the axle and is it sealed properly?
So yea go for industrial bearings when you can. This or SKF will rock easy. Zealous have the benefit from having a rock solid inner “ring” (no need for spacers so no play around axle possible).
BTW If you were to absolutely look for a sick bearing material, look for FAG Cronitect bearings (I forget the compound, begins with CrMo… And can’t remember the rest, info must be available) and ask the same ultra hard metal from your manufacturer.
I have been using zealous for about 3 years now. I had one set of mercury bearings and they are amazing
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I’ve gone through so many bearing brands and I’ve finally settled on zealous ceramics. They are dead silent and have taken an absolute beating from both my downhill and eboard setups without any failures. I’d highly recommend them 
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If you press bearings on and off shafts or housings but do it the wrong way, so you’re pulling or pushing on the outer part of the bearing when it’s going on or off a shaft, or vice versa, the cheap ones get pitted races with their softer metal and won’t spin smoothly anymore. An easy test of the metal. I’d test them and not take their word on anything
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So it turns out that HCH bearings (as well as many other brands) are industrial bearings. As such, their free-spinning is not great… unless they are in a wheel. Then, and especially after breaking them in, they roll SO well!
@b264 , I have half a mind to send you a set of these for you to destroy. Still running 608’s?
Look at this on eBay http://www.ebay.com/itm/130565237238 Can’t beat a set of 10 for $12. So far, I’ve replaced my idlers, front wheel and motor (×1) bearings with them. They seem to be as maintenance free as bearings get, and they’re so cheap why even bother when they need it? @Deckoz they might even save you some time lol Anyway, the seller linked above has all shapes and sizes of this particular brand for around $1-$2 a piece.
Edit: oops, that’s the motor bearings. Here’s the 608s:
Yeah, I use mostly 608 and a couple 6900. I have yet to find a bearing that takes salty, snowy streets without crapping-out and/or rusting onto the axle. Ceramic bearings are cool until you experience a failure…
I think it’ll be hard to find one that doesn’t rust on to the axle, that’s just the limit of steel. More carbon and better hardness = more ability to rust vs More rust resistance = softer material and greater risk of pitting and failiure.
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We need inconel raceways on them 
I work on automotive bearings all the time. The key differences are:
1.) The outer races is generally really wide, allowing for more grease. You literally put GLOBS of it in there, I think this is the main protection. The sheer amount of grease you can fit in there is just more.
2.) multiple levels of sealing(generally a rubber seal, and a metal press fit cap.
3.) no dirrect contact with road debris(further from the ground).
4.) They dont use ball bearings like we use, they use roller type bearings:
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Do the bearing rollers … need little bearings and a tiny axle?
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