[HELP PLEASE!] Why every time I connect all cables sparks?

Hi guys, i don’t know why… but every time I connect all cables sparks? that’s not what I do wrong … :frowning:

What part are bad connected?

PS.: uploading photo…Uploading…

cause the caps on you’re esc charge up, thats basic knowledge
you should read more about electronics if you dont want to catch fire

what do you mean? i don’t understand you… sorry my friend

he is saying it is normal that you get a spark. Nothing to worry about. You have capacitors on your ESC - so when you connect the batteries without an AntiSpark-Switch or XT90s the current will flow to charge them. This is what is causing the spark.

but the problem is that very many sparks are coming out where I connect, as if to explode … even has melted a bit one of the metal connectors … I do not see normally …

Yeah that’s not good. Definitely get an XT90S to loose the spark. I would plug the esc in until you get them, based on you saying that some kg them are melting.

Melting ur connector isn’t normal. That’s a lot of power. Normally you’d get a spark and maybe it would leave a bit of oxidization but that’s it. Looks to be connected right but can’t be sure from the pics.

How badly melted? Is it a snap quick Spark or a buzz spark? Should be a quick snap and then ur connected. If it’s anything more than a quick snap and ur getting melted stuff that sounds like the batteries aren’t connected right. But they look right.

Those are sketchy looking connections. U don’t have the covers to seal those plug ends.

if i connect only 1 battery works perfect…

PD.: how i can connect the quantum remote control?

U need to follow the instructions for binding the trans and receiver that came with it.

take ur time and read what u have.

Ur batteries ar eprobsbly connected fine and u just are getting the initial,spark that happens.

if i connect only 1 battery works perfect…

PD.: how i can connect the quantum remote control?

First off, those are really sketchy connections. You need to cut those battery cables and solder the correct connectors on them, this looks very sketchy and the last thing you want on anything motorized that you will be ridding is sketchy. Resolder everything properly and your problems will go away.

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Those joints look like they are half cold soldered. Also as mentioned re-do them with patience and your problems will go away. The solder has to flow and be sucked into the wire. I’m not a fan of mixing connectors either. Not sure what is going on with the battery 4mm to xt60 either. That looks dangerous. A loose joint will get very hot.

From what I can see, you need to properly convert your battery and wire connectors to XT90 - I love XT90, so I will always recommend them. During soldering, always place heat shrink tubing over the wires, and then shrink into place over the soldered connections. Do one wire at a time on the batteries so you don’t risk shorting out the batteries. Then, place an XT90 Anti Spark connector between the batteries and ESC. You will use the XT90 Anti Spark connector to close/complete the circuit to turn your system on. If you follow all of these instructions you will have zero sparks, which equals a very safe system. Below is a video to watch for tips on soldering connectors properly… :slight_smile:

Another tip is to get yourself a soldering tool to keep wires/connectors in place. Always solder connectors with the male and female parts joined. This is so that you don’t melt the metal parts out of the plastic housings…

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Also, If you don’t feel comfortable soldering, you can always get convertor cables that plug into the ports you have so you wouldn’t need to solder. If you can’t find what you need anywheres online, I’m sure someone on here wouldn’t mind making the cable and shipping it to you for a small fee.

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Okay thanks guys

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Don’t mess this step up…and never cut positive and negative wires at the same time

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the xt90s plugs and all its ilk, while they’re awesome in that they have the antispark feature and I like the slide-on cap, the way ur forced to solder them is pretty dangerous as the cap that covers both the wire ends requires both ends to be exposed beside each other till the cap is slid up. Typically u can wrap and seal each connection and then do the other but not wth these. U can’t cover them as the cap is often a tight fit.

I have a habit of touching solder joints to see how hot they are. I touched both exposed cable ends after soldering them both before sliding up the cap and bridged the two! Did it without thinking…habit. Lucky I wasn’t sweaty and didn’t blow my finger off.

Agree with others here. Some soldering you need to fix and re-wire these. Not trying to knock you, but a good chance to do some more soldering practice!

It’s really helpful to have a bigger soldering iron or solder station - large 12/10/8awg wire is tough to solder unless you have a larger tip and really hot iron. The wire acts as a heat sink and sucks the heat out too quickly. Definitely follow the steps/tips @mrjonnyjones showed - that’ll help you a ton.

Making your own loop key w/ anti spark is pretty easy (if i can do it…):

HTH - GL!

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Could you use that system, with the loop, as well as a switch?

You could use something like this from esk8.de

http://www.hellray.de/shop/#!/eSk8-de-Sparkprotection-Power-Switch-mit-Sicherung/p/59817445/category=15255004 :slight_smile:

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