Wouldn’t a hub motor be ideal with the urethane shell? But maybe too low kv?
Yeh it would be slow as hell… even 63’ size with 170kv could bring me up to only 30-35kph on motor power alone…
Well, as always biggest hurdle is making a mount and attaching everything. My friend who owns the bike I helped make electric, made a system with lever, where he can detach motor from wheel when out of juice or when it is not needed.
Ive seen hub motors made as mid drives with chain / sprocket attachment, in that application it might work nicely and doesnt need the huge gear ratios RC / our outrunners would need to drive wheel directly
I would prefer direct connection with wheel using gearbox of sorts, as I would love more speed out of it and at some point it needs pedal assist to go to the max speed.
It is also very economical on battery. I get about 8-10wh/km riding relatively fast (30-35kph). That is with cycling also, not sure how much it eats when cruising on motor only…
I do let it go 35kph on motor only when I need to relax the legs but when I can I cycle also to help with speed / battery life
This is what is needed for nice grip
Also feel free to check up on this:
They dont use spring to drive motor against the wheel. Relies on inertia for contact with tire. Though in my experiments due to motor angle / position with inertia it was not enough to get good grip
Qulbix 76 frame incomming! Woohoo.
And manitou dorado forks!
Loved your build and watching you ride the bike! I was interested in what you were saying about the magnet in the motor being affected by the mount. I’m wondering why that’s not more of an issue with motor mounts for esk8 considering the motor is typically mounted right to it. Does it have anything to do with the choice of material used to make your mount? Also if your gearing on the right side is a 2:1 ratio are you only really getting half the power you could get if you could mount it without the magnetic interference? Love the project!!
Anybody good with UART and the bafang kit?
I installed my motor but the display wants a password to start up
The guy I got the kit from says I can send it back to have a technician fix it for me or buy a new display (which is ridiculously expensive to China).
But I got the idea that it should in theory be possible to reverse engineer the protocol and make my own display no? Anybody got an idea on how to do this the easiest way?
I want to make an ebike next year but never considered having the motor touch the wheel like that - thats such a good way of doing it
I like the rear suspension design. How many W is that bafang middrive?
250w with the official spec but according to the controller programming it is set to a max current of 15A. It can apparently take batteries up to 48v so you can squeeze much more watts out of this thing. I just did an uphill climb on 10S with an average current of 12A for 18min - that’s around 430W and plenty if you want a bicycle and not a motorbike.
Yup I don’t think there’s any hw difference between 250-500w or even up to 1000w.
Might have to build a commuter with bafang middrive just so I can use my spare 10s battery.
Did you have any overheating issues while doing that 18min uphill climb?
And are you using Vesc?
The bafang middrive has a built-in controller. No overheating as far as I can tell. Felt actually quite cool when I touched it.
Lol I should do some research before asking stupid questions.