they cant do it for me so I need to press them myself.
It’s as if everything converges to the same design if enough thought is put into it…
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Beta Tester here. Sorry for the really late update as my build is still held up due to one issue coming up after another.This is one of the earlier iterations of the 6p stagger stacked holders. I currently have it on a 10s6p config as previously mentioned in one of @winfly’s updates.
So far as a first time builder this really simplified a number of things for me. that being having to go the spot welder route which I preferred not to have to do for a number of reasons and allowing me to switch out bad cells without too much fuss.
The biggest challenge was assembling it but once done, it was just a matter of insulating the Series braids and I didn’t have to worry about shorts or balance wires getting pulled out.
I unfortunately wasn’t able to take photos while I was building as I wanted to focus on working on the pack. What I mean by balance wires not getting pulled out is that I soldered the balance leads under the braid so that it is squeezed between the braid and the bottom/top of the cell holder so that not only is the solder securing it there, the rest of the balance wire is tightly compressed.
I used velcro on the 3D printed parts to secure it to the deck so no movement at all for me. It is a great fit for the widened Hummie deck and I’m pleased with how it came out. I’ve yet to test it during actual use but I’ll be updating again once my board is rolling! Again big thanks to @winfly for allowing me to run His Cell holders on my build 
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The busbar looks great! This and the NESE have been evolving to better suit the esk8 needs to it makes sense that they would end up looking a bit similar. In terms of the way the come together though they are very different.
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Well Winfly’s project started out as something that
- doesn’t use a plastic box to maintain compression because everyone already uses as enclosure.
- doesn’t use expensive stamped and pressed copper sheet for contact.
but now it’s both those things. It’s a pretty good design( esp flexible connection), but it’s both those things that he didn’t like in the NESE in the first place.
Edit: quoting. " Afaik NESE is the only high preformance non solder battery pack in the market and there are many thing I don’t like about it.
- Cost - literally it’s a monopoly
- Location - he’s based in EU so shipping will cost even more money
- Size - it’s huge, it got that extended part for screws terminals, and it’s fully enclosed. In Eskate everyone uses an enclosure anyways there’s no necessity to enclose the whole pack.
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I don’t see it like that…
- I had nothing against the box design. I just didn’t like NESE’s terminal. I’m trading modularity for compact size. Also, there’s no way to get the cell holders under 22mm tall with these nylon standoffs (can’t source brass or aluminium ones for cheap).
- I custom made this busbars because some of us prefer solid surface to surface contacts and it still gives flexibility between series. they are quite cheap too. it literally cost <$2 a piece for me and that was with $70 DHL shipping from China.
Anyways I don’t think it’s worth my effort to sell them as 3d printed parts. If I can, I would much rather do a groupbuy and get them injection molded. And I will release the files for the V1 standoff design as well as the my sources for BOM next week.
the reason why I went with the modified NESE box and these custom made pressed braid is V1 is take too much time to assemble. They will work if you dont mind taking the time to assemble them.
Gimme a break dude. “Lower quality parts” tested on a DC load and easily accessible. I’ve done over 300 miles on my 13s4p pack and it got slightly toasted by my broken 6.6 melting in the enclosure and it’s still holding up.
This guy can't take criticism and apologies. Watch, he's gona come back and rage about this.
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Forgot how to mention thr v1 with the compressed braid allows the pack to flex if it has to without worry. With about 1-2mm length of series braid the pack can flex wuite a bit. I’m gonna have mine on a Hummie deck so I won’t be able to check how much it can flex but you can always extend the series braid length if needed for more flexibility
@Skunk, your message that I just came to this thread to take a stab at him is deleted but I am still going to reply to you.
Well, I am not a person to take a stab at anyone. I say things as they are. I have really liked his design, right from the start, especially because he made the modules more compact and continuous. Then it was “I” who suggested to use copper braids with raised tabs and then @Winfly and I talked about what braids size to use, where to buy it from and, if memory serves me right, current ratings etc. Before that he has using stamped continuous copper tabs. I was pretty eager at every point in his designs and still am. I just like to state things as they are.
The thing is, if your design starts to look like an opensource design it should follow the same etiquettes as an opensource design. That’s my beef here, nothing else
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We’ve been arguing which is safer. Bands r bolts. Have to make better press today.
Stiff tabs, while seeming Better w higher amp ability, it’s also a liability w the compression of each individual cell. Cells in p could disconnect.
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Don’t know how you made the nipples but from the photo it looks of different height. I assume these are not flexible at all and it might pose a danger if the variation in height is too great.
When i was doing mine manually, i made a jig, then used drill bit blunt end to form nipples hitting 3 times with a hammer to ensure even height. Could be an option here.
This one was first prototype for totally different concept so just to show whats on the bottom die of the first photo:
If you ask me, i think its safer to have braid only and bolts to keep it whole while having rubber bands to keep them pressed.
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the nipples I made in the pic were just to see how possible it was to bend the material and I definitely won’t be using that one. I assumed your contacts are not bendable @agniusm and you had the same risk of a paralleled cell losing contact but maybe yours are a bit bendable which in my mind would be much safer. but when it gets to be a thin contact that is bendable and safer in that way it often has a sharp edge which is also dangerous and so easy to cut the shrink wrap. I made some contact before using a thin foil and a protector above them also 3d printed and maybe will go back to that. intact thats what I’m going to do. a hair more space and bendable.
the braid I’m afraid could have a strand break or compress and have a strand get under the shrink and short so I have it oriented so its only solid contact under the cell.
@agniusm your poron foam is a standard for having little compression and I know you’ve done tons of testing with what you made but the poron seems so thin. I actually feel safer with bands! wondering what testing could be done to assure no p cells are losing contact.
Since you switch to rigid tabs, may I ask whether do you think there is the possibility that few wires inside the braid can brake under pressure at the level of the posive side? Then make a bridge between the neg and pos part of the positive side. I know you added a ring to close the positive side except the battery “nipple”, but I was just wondering about it. Anyhow really good design. Thx!
Edit: well apparently @Hummie thought the same. Fun
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My tabs are 0.6mm so they are flexible and poron allows for it to flex and hit each and every cell. The tabs are also punched and pressed on industrial press so the tolerances are more uniform than those you can get manually punching.
The poron might be thin, bit it develops a force (actual measured force) that i think is sufficient. Here is my own quote from the back in da day 
So, poron is producing 18-20N of force measured. Thats 1.83kgf/2.54cm² and 2.04kgf/2.54cm².
Poron specification is 76kPa which is 0.775kgf/cm² or 1.968kgf/2.54cm² which is close to my observation.
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ha you were probably quoting a response to me from back in the day. its a long obsession. thanks for your info and openness.
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And i should switch to newtons to keep it all in SI 
I don’t think there would be any loose wire from the braid at all. Unless they were already there when you assembled it. Everything is fitted tightly and not possible be move on the inside… Unless you lose compression by idk dropping the whole thing from like a good height and breaking the plastic.
Also I didn’t just switch to rigid tabs, I got them for testing.
@mishrasubhransu which one looks like an open source project? The newer box design? I literally just printed a few more than 2 weeks ago and didn’t do anything with them.
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Yeah, I agree, my judgement was premature. Sorry.
“credit where credit’s due”
Do you still plan to release the files?
I have a 3d printer and I’m wondering if I can print these and source the other materials myself. It would be for the next batch of Haya decks which have a slightly wider channel (now 84mm instead of 76mm).
I should probably point out that what you’re offering is not OP’s version but your own.
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