I was looking for some pics to show you @paulus_germanus, but you found the thread with most of those.
Yeah, i did clean up some of the edges - next on that project is sinking my magnets into holes w/ epoxy, thin gasket neoprene around edge and a couple mechanical fasteners. Goal is quick access w/o tools to swap batteries for extended range. Carrying spare batteries in the bag easily vs a heavy board. I have two sets of 4500 and 5000mAh thin lipos intended for this. The height of the front cover is intended to handle a pair of much bigger batteries for long range flats!
Just rebuilt my GF’s board (my old 42 Vanguard Flex 1), with 6374 190kv, and 9mm to 15mm setup - much much better now. A bit too powerful/fast for her on 8s, so might swap in dual 3s=6s for her, and i’ll ride it on 8s or more. I need to finally finish the enclosures for it though…
Ohhh this is to cool to resist doing! Nice one @MasterCho
But Im curious of one thing - How would I go forward if I wanted to wrap the whole board, both sides. Where would I make the break? or would I wrap it over and sand it down?
I asked the same question a while ago. If you go back to December 2016 in this thread you will find my message and a first response from @MasterCho . I also recommended this tutorial from Easycomposite: http://www.easycomposites.co.uk/#!/composites-tutorials/carbon-fibre-skinning-rifle-stock I agree the difficulty is to lay resin on both sides in the same time
@jga Oh totally missed that, I read the comment before it tho and didnt fully understand. But now I understand. Thanks! and thanks for the link!
Does this epoxy activate the carbon fiber ? Or do you need special epoxy?
I would recommend Epoxy Resin for Bar Tops because it’s less runny.
I asked in another thread but it looks like not much people follow that one. So sorry for the spam
Has anybody tried or thought about adding an aluminium strip In between fibre layers I the rim of the enclosure to prevent damage around the screw holes?
that’s a good idea. I haven’t done it for esk8 but I have used the same process on my car hood.
yes that would work well.
What do you think would be the best approach on the edge (left in pick) glue top and bottom fibre layers between them selves encasing the aluminium or having the aluminium layer show, thus being able to be wider
I thought I’ve heard in the past that some adhesives have trouble sticking to aluminium due to oxidation, but maybe if the strip isn’t right at the edge then there isn’t a problem, as the carbon fibre holds it in place?
the epoxy wont actually have to adhere to the aluminium because it will be encased in the carbon fibre
That was my biggest concern. Epoxy not sticking to aluminium (even if sanded?) Encasing it is then
I had a Lotus Elise before so I know a little bit about Aluminum bonding methods for racing cars that have aluminum chassis to save the weight of the car, the epoxy-based adhesive was used instead of bolts and nuts or being welded to save processing time to be built.
Hey my dad used to have a Lotus Elise and also used to race cars
I’ve done quite a few tensile test with adhesives during university and the best method to get adhesives to stick on to aluminum was to increase surface roughness (best method was via sand blasting as it would almost dimple the surface) and then clean thoroughly with acetone to remove all potential grease/oils/dirt etc. When prepared properly we would get cohesive failures during traction testing, meaning that adhesive would fail by its self instead of detaching from the surface of the alloy. The images bellow illustrates what i mean (stolen from wikipedia)
