Put it together and took it out for a spin on 97s no grip. Gotta be careful with no grip. Almost had a SYF scenario…No power yet, just testing the design…Got my nice white wheels dirty and put a little wear on em’.
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great, inspiring, work my friend! That is some real craftsmanship and true DIY!!!
I’ve been modding some pre-made decks and patting myself on the back for how i’m making a “custom” setup… then i re-stumble across this thread and am humbled by what’s possible.
Wow. hats off to you!
Look forward to more excellent pics and seeing it motorized!
a nip of basil hayden bourbon tipped your way in salute! Long day and winding down after fiddling on a deck and all CF itchy!..
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Looks like you have more builds in progress. Going to be tough to put grip tape on that board. 
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Thanks @sl33py! Enjoy your beverage! You earned it!
I totally dig the stuff that you are doing too!! This CF board is pretty sweet! I now know how vicious Vicious grip tape can be from reading your thread. 
I’m working really hard at the design. I’m trying to integrate the electronics inside the board, but I am also trying to be careful not to copy Chaka! Now that I have a pine one built, it’s time to build some out of stronger and nicer looking woods. I’m waiting for Dexter@ to come out with the 40T pulleys for my 90mm ABECs. Things are moving along…
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Yep, in the pics above you can see the pile is growing. I’m working out some designs, but not letting myself get too “Stuck” on one idea. Tech is changing all the time and I want my boards to be somewhat future proof. Initially the idea was to give this board a nice finish so that I could do a cool custom grip tape design. I am not sure If I want to clear grip or liquid grip it or what…I’m already working on the next prototype. I got the concept done in pine, but there are a lot of cool woods out there. How about Flame Maple…Like my electric guitars…I just love that wood and I have some from a couple of custom guitar builds I did last year. It should be much stronger and amazing to look at. Here’s some of what I got lined up…Whatcha think?
That pic I posted is of @sl33py board build. I was just liking his work. Yours looks pretty sweet too. How do you like that method board?
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I really like it its solid and stiff, ideal for such a large enclosure underneath, and thank you its a work in progress still missing my watt metter and led ligthning but i have so many ideas in my head for future builds so i might end up selling it to finance my next build
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Thanks @Ulfberht! Yeah - think the e-Sugar is shaping up well. Got the motor and trucks mounted - just need to sort out the electronics next. It has the power (flat braided) on top like boosted. This will be a guest board so my GF can ride hers when folks are over and we head out.
Ultimately this was my first practice run and I keep learning each time i do GF/CF epoxy to reinforce (or cosmetic) a board. Worked on an Omen Chief last night and had to re-learn that CF is ITCHY (sanding dust).
I vote the flame maple for sure! If you do it - you cannot cover it fully w/ grip tape - clear or otherwise. Make sure to leave a stripe or some pattern to see the beautiful wood beneath!
I already have some of the 40t Abec gears on order from DIYes/Torque! Can’t wait for these!
I love the work put in here. Great work. But there’s no concave, which was the problem on my last board I built. That’s why I’m pressing my own decks now from veneers. My new board solves a lot of the problems that arise from having no concave, by pressing concave.
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You are right. That is a totally reasonable concern. No concave at this stage. Not a big deal. This is a prototype, so I opted to go with less labor steps for this one. Because the top piece is separate from the base and also much thinner (3ply), It is a lot easier to press a concave than trying to press a super thick piece. Using a flat piece also reveals how durable the top piece would be under load. If it’s gonna crack, it would be a flat piece over a concave piece any day…NO cracking, no sqeeking, and it has a nice responsive ride feel. I actually expected it to be a little more unstable than it actually was. Riptide Krank double barrel bushings and WTB pivot cups…(93A boardside, 87A roadside. 42° Buck trucks w/ 1/2" Luxe flat risers.)
It would also be feasible to change tops out with different concave radii and profiles. The tops bolt to the support rails that go down the length of the board. This is designed to allow a lot of adjustment and testing for me and for a customer to experiment with without having to buy and change out a whole new deck!! I’m already working with a longboard maker out of Huntington Beach, CA to make me some prototype tops for testing. I want to have some options available. The standard profiles are already established, so why not just go with what already works and support a really cool family based company from Cali? Pressing decks is not difficult, but there are issues that can arise. For one thing, the cost of DIY pressing is MUCH more expensive than getting them made by a company that not only has years of expertise, but also the contract pricing set up with their wood dealers. Even after they tack on their premium it still comes out a lot cheaper than if I did it myself. Labor is a big factor…
Who knows…I may try to make my own too, but It’s looking like I’ll be able to farm that work out and experiment with some other options later. If all works out, my next prototype will have optional tops in W-concave, 20" radial, progressive, and I want to develop a good asymmetric concave for goofy footers… That is where I may want to try and do some DIY pressing, so I can really get in there and experiment.
Prototyping is like jumping out of an airplane and then furioulsly trying to sew together a parachute before you hit the ground! LOL I look forward to seeing your designs too, bro! It’s a lot of fun going out on a limb and doing something totally different! 
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That prototype stage is good. You have a good design going. I’ve decided on a wood lid for my next board. 1/16 veneers have been time consuming to build with, but the results have been great. Curves fell better. Hummie doesn’t like to go more than a 15 mph on my board cause it has no concave. So I’ve been pressing this deck from veneers and his deck. Cause of sanding, it’s basically a slightly smaller version of his deck. You should check out veneers and pressing with them some time when you have the time. I’m starting to think this is he best way to make a solid deck
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I was sliding that board I made without grip tape, so it’s not too horrible. I did have some sketchy moments around tight turns on mild downhill sections. My front foot was trying to slide up the front of the board. I had to use my upper leg to resist. With no concave, I have found that as long as the ride height isn’t too high, your bushings are appropriate for your weight and adjusted properly, It’s not too bad. It has a bit of a “tippy” feel. The center of balance is still in the center of the board, it just feels weird. You have to have some curve. You can also build up areas to create curve or w. Some people take grip tape, dense foam, duct tape, or other stuff to build up sections to get the exact foot feel they are looking for. In theory you could build up a flat surface with raised edges and get a pretty good feel. Here’s a cool write up on the topic. From the guys over at MotionBoardshop…
http://www.motionboardshop.com/pages/how-to-adding-w-concave-to-your-longboard-deck And this video http://www.motionboardshop.com/pages/how-to-adding-footstops-and-pockets-to-your-longboard-deck
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I though about that before. I tried to CNC mill concave, but the wood I used fell apart. It might work if you use the right wood. I might try it again some day, but I’m really into the pressing thing now.
I wish I could outsource this work, as I have some good designs. But I have yet to find a board manufaturer that I can work with.
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I like your spirit! A true DIYer!! Awesome! It can be frustrating sometimes, as you already know, but man is it great when something works out. It’s a good feeling to know that you are making something with your own hands.
When it comes to farming out the work, just send an email or give a quick phone call to a company that you think could help you and see what they can do for you. You might find that they are easier too work with and more receptive than you may have previously thought. Another angle I have been exploring is furniture and cabinet makers in my area. What better sources for wood and industrial CNC woodworking machines. If you talk to them nice they often are eager to show off what they can do for you. I’ve met a few really cool shop owners in my town that taught me a lot just from phone conversations. I’d reach out to some local makers and let them know what you are doing and see what their response is. It’s worth a shot and you get to meet some really cool people sometimes. People happy to share and help!
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the old evolve carbons had no concave either. basically I started with that board into the electric longboard world and it felt ok after fiddling with the sidewinder bushings … and then I build my landyachtz topspeed and from that point onwards I just couldnt ride my evolve anymore, cause I felt I had zero grip on that stupid flat surface - so guess its all a matter of what you are used to. 
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I had a a great, working deck that I’ve been using for the last 6 months or so, but I got tired of having no concave. At the time, I told my self this won’t affect me. I go ride hummies board, and I’m like, crap, this is how a deck should feel at high speed. So I used his deck and stole the shape to press a board with shape. I would love to see more people in the deck making industry. Too many enclosures, not enough decks 
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many boards on this world though and creating your own requires so much experience. shape, flex pattern, durability, damping. think Id have to build an incredible amount of boards until I get one right. 
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It’s not hard honestly with the vacuum press from roar rocket, some titebond III, and a mold. From there, draw a pattern, cut it out or sand it down to that using a belt sander or dremel. Then you can finish up your touches with some good polycrylic. Simple as that really. I did this the hard route by cnc milling. I got a more symmetric board by cnc milling first, but it was a pain in the butt, as it always messed up when it did multiple sheets. So I had to cut them, 1 at a time, all the way now up to 17 layers. And each one takes about an hour to cut due to moving crazy amounts of clamps around between cuts.
Bottom line, anyone can do it, they just need 30-40 hours at least.
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I totally agree. It’s one of those things where it seems simple until you really dig in and see how much thought goes into the contours on some of these boards. What one person will like and what a different person will like are all based on a ton of variables. Foot size, board width, goofy vs. regular, what the person is used to riding, etc… They all play a part in the design considerations. Finding a board that feels right for the most number of riders is the tricky part. Just a subtle change in the concave can feel totally different. So on my “built in electronics” designs, I made it a two piece so that I could change out the tops with different concaves to find that right feel. I personally like the locked in feel of a nice radial concave, but the more I look into the W, the more I see the potential for reduced flex and more support for the arch of the foot. It’s the huge amount of options and variables that make the perfect design so elusive. Too much freedom. But that is both the joy and pain of testing.
It’s like gourmet cooking…Sure all of the ingredients are pretty standard and everyone has access to them, but it takes a little something special to take those ingredients and create a dish that inspires! 
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