It seems that I’ve somehow damaged the trigger pot when soldering the wires to it because I tried binding the remote when I only had the steering pot connected instead and I had no issues. I also tried testing the resistance of the pot connections using a multi meter and while I get expected readings with the steering pot, I get nothing with the trigger pot
I guess these components must be quite sensitive to heat unfortunately, something for people to keep in mind.
Any idea whether you can buy these things separately somewhere?
Otherwise I guess i’ll be having to order another remote…
This first casted Mad Munkey sold is a complete build that I just finished. I almost didn’t want to pack it up and send it off. Thank you @Pylonflyer for giving me the chance to make my work looks this good!
$30 for the Mad Munkey Casted.
$8 for shipping and handling in USA.
––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––
$38 for a casted Mad Munkey.
–––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––
For a Mad Munkey v1 complete it is.
$30 for the Mad Munkey Casted.
$30 for a new GT2b.
$30 for complete build and installation with lanyard.
$5 to install the LED indicator.
$8 for shipping and handling in USA.
––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––
$103 for a complete Mad Munkey w/LED gauge.
I did the same thing it’s because you soldered the wires directly to the pot’s pcb rather than to the metal leads you’ve cut off, the heat destroys the carbon traces
I’ve looked for them but can’t find them anywhere @chinzw said the same
I messaged a guy on ebay who was selling a bunch of different 5Kohm pot’s but not this one, he said it was limited angle (50 degree) track but hadn’t been able to get any
I ended up buying a second controller left the metal leads on and it worked fine
Yea sounds about right. I ended up working out how to use the steering pot in place of the trigger pot, just required dremelling down the pot shaft a little bit seeing as it’s longer. Only had a quick test of the board so far but it seems to work great, probably need to adjust the reciever settings on my VESCs though as it feels like I’m not quite getting my full braking power now.
The other thing I found is that you don’t even need to cut the green PCB from the pot, seems to fit fine with it still connected.
The trigger pot has b5k50 written on it, while from memory, the steering pot has b5k90 on it so I’m fairly confident that they’re both 5k, I’ll have to check with my multimeter when I get home in a few days to be sure though.
I would have thought that the 50/90 parts of the codes would refer to the angle that they turn but they both seem to turn the same amount so I’m not sure?
Every time I take mine out for a spin, I always notice how well the handle feels in your grip. Now I want to do add-ons like switchable on/off board lights and I have an idea for a 3D-printed mount on top for a click-in LED flashlight for night riding.