Oil based urethanes will cause yellowing. You will want to use water based like LHB said. I use Hellman’s water based spar. There is also general finish that is water based. I have even used polycrylic when I was doing rice paper wash outs.
I am wondering if I should lock in my fine frit even. It feels well sunk into the epoxy…
Any good way to know? My epoxy is quite too thick to stab the board with a brush and hope I don’t raise the level so high I will lose the point of frit. 
If you run your hand over it, it should feel like griptape and shouldn’t be able to brush any off.
I doubt I will be able to brush it off. I didn’t wait enough time for the epoxy to start vulcanizing and dropped the frit. It’s quite sunk in. I guess when it fully solidifies I will try to use a brush on a tail or sth, if I don’t lose any, I am good to go?
Yeah, that looks fine really. With the fine it can do that if you don’t wait a little before dropping the frit.
But that lools fine honestly if the friction amount feels good to you.
I am just in love with medium frit! Really locks you in!
I will see how it feels once everything is solidified. I might try medium frit on a second board, but I think it will need way more locking in. 
With medium frit, I drop the frit as soon as the epoxy is down. The sink in is good on medium frit. Locks it in really well
I will use this information to presume that if I dropped my fine frit after waiting measly 20 minutes(40-60 minute vulcanization period) it will lock fine as well.
Why would you wait before dropping it in?
So it doesn’t sink straight through the epoxy. My epoxy is water-runny.
Well, after allowing the epoxy to harden initially I can say that the result is perfect for my first attempt.
I mean, it does have 2 small spots where I Scrooge McDucked on glass frit (in general it feels like it would cut any patch of skin on my body instantly), but I guess I could just sand that spot and the repeat the previous step? Maybe some other tips regarding “adding what was not added in the first try”? @Sender
I have started to always lightly sand with 120 - 220 grit sandpaper over all the grit and everywhere really.
then thoroughly cleaning, then final clearcoats with spraymax 2k clearcoat.
This removes the super sharp stuff and yields awesome results.
In my case some frit in the middle decided to actually sink below the layer, yet on the outsides it’s fine. So I guess I will see how the grip is after 24 hours have passed… I think I might need to use some nasty low grit sandpaper if I want to recover. But that’s my favorite thing about epoxy I guess. I can sand it and recoat and it will stay as clear as it was.
Also I guess that’s why you use medium frit. 
@murloc992, looks awesome. Where did you get that fabric from? Also how do you have that matte finish? Doesn’t epoxy make the surface super glossy?
Fabric is custom printed by a guy who made the deck itself here, locally in Lithuania.
Also, what do you mean by matte? 
Lighting can be deceiving.
The problematic spots can be seen, but I don’t think they will impact anything. If they do, I have sandpaper and I am not afraid to use it.
Oh yes, this thing locks you in GOOD. Glass frit IS the future, even fine frit locks you in, how insane would medium be? 
Has anyone been able to find clear medium glass frit on amazon? it seems that they dont have it.
Look up bulleye glass.
only found it in 1 pound variant and thats way to much.