I think that’s what I will do for now…
Do I understand how to wire a loop key correctly?
i’m about to build one with:
- 2x170 kv motors
-2x flipsky 4.12
-8 inch wheels
-10s4p samsung 30q battery
do you think its gonna go good together? what’s your opinion and tips?
4.12 works like any other 4.12 vesc.
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I would not even look at the 4.12 vesc’s to be honest, especially If you intend to use AT-wheels on the board. The 4.20 is just soo much better value for money, and would be the minimum in terms of power needed to run a half decent AT-setup. And flipsky should be shipping all their new 4.20 vesc’s from now on with the modified resistors. They just haven’t had time to update their website yet.
if anything I would look upwards towards a focbox or 6.6 vesc and not down towards the 4.12 if you are going for a AT-setup. But then again if that is the case I would use a larger battery and 6374 motors. But if that is the case you are looking at a different price point.
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ya that is correct. I know loop keys are ugly as f*** and you loose them and all that, but that will be the most robust solution as of now. If you don’t want to pay some good money for a solid anti-spark.
This is true of all AS keys that do not incorporate a pre-charge circuit, not just FlipSky’s.
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i use an xt 90 anti spark, when do i know that thing is broken?
An XT90S is a loop key, not an Anti-Spark switch. You will know when a loop is broken, trust me :).
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i figured, but good to know.
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Was wondering if someone could give me some insight with my 4.20 dual issue. I’m used to single vescs, so the dual is a new world to me.
I’m using Ackmaniac’s tool/firmware. Followed tutorials on how to properly set up master/slave, did motor and input wizards with no trouble, made sure to split max battery/regen in half, and everything looked fine.
The issue is when I slowly push the throttle of my Nano-X to about 25%, only one motor (I think on the master vesc side) starts to turn, and it isn’t until I push it further that the second motor starts to turn. Even at full throttle, by eye, it looks like the first one is still turning faster.
Is there a setting I could be overlooking?
If more info is needed, I’ll post vesc settings, but it’s all pretty default. 40/-40 motor, 30/-20 battery.
Are you running sensorless or sensored? Did you try riding it?
Sorry, I guess I was skimping on the details.
Running sensorless in BLDC (for now… will try FOC later). Haven’t actually tried riding on it, in case I was missing a critical setting.
If I’m not mistaken, motor cogging while bench testing on sensorless is normal 
Tried push start and ride it then it should be fine 
Yeah, I was familiar with cogging on my single vesc build. It’s not so much cogging as just not starting at all. Like… first motor will cog up until about 5-10% throttle, then starts to spin after that. 2nd motor won’t move at all until about 25%, where it starts to cog, then start up. I thought maybe I was missing something.
But I guess I should just go give it a go Snow is finally melting too.
When I was running sensorless last time, I was also shocked by the motor cogging while bench testing 
1 side of the motor doesn’t seems to move even when I apply the throttle, but they all run ok after riding it so I guess that’s just how sensorless runs
Are you configuring both vescs? Like connecting the USB to vesc 1 and vesc 2 and both motors are identically configured
Yep. Started on vesc 0, did motor detection, then input wizard. Next did vesc 1 motor detection, then input wizard again, this time setting it to slave vesc.
Theyr junk i have 2 of them unfortunately and both have constant cutouts on even mild amp settings. Ive been pretty much limited to 30a or less and had to increase throttle and brake ramping time just to make it rideable.
These issues have been fixed in the newest iteration since March 27, check this thread for more info.
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Yeah, your info is old unfortunately. Someone has figured out how to fix these and the newest version does not suffer the cut outs. They are improving, which is great really.
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