Do a warranty if you can
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Then do you have any idea on what’s wrong with mine?
Yea warranty is my last resort as shipping back to China is expensive and the shipping will take forever too…
It could be short on the 3.3v or on the 5v
Yeah you should listen to the wizard and to not a moron like me. but that’s wired though because I have myself had two separate times a solder bridge on my drv chip on the flipsky 4.20 Vesc’s when I did the resistor testings, and both times I had the bridged side not lighting up similar to jun’s vesc. and both times when I removed the bridge It solved the problem. Idk just my experience with bridging regarding the 4.20 vesc’s
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The odd thing is that blue led did light up for a few milliseconds before going off…
Just that the LEDs on the right side stays on…
Thanks for your insight brother, so you’re saying that you have personal experience exactly the same with my vesc is that correct?
Yeah But listen to jonnymedusa he really knows his stuff and I don’t
I don’t think your a moron your reasoning was good, a short never look good on a chip. I would never had look at the picture if you haven’t mention a short.
But once you cross reference the location with the schematic, you realize that it won’t matter for this specific configuration.
Was th can connected?
The can bus is integrated in the design on the 4.20 plus version, unlike the toggle switch on the regular dual 4.20 Vesc But you are right, because my bridges were caused by myself and located on the other side of the drv chip and most likely bridging different polarity pins.
Yea like what @Schtekarsten mentioned, it’s a built in can bus connection so there’s no switch for that…
You mentioned that it might be a short on the 3.3v and 5v, how can I check that by myself?
I apologise in advance because I don’t know electrical methodology that we’ll…
If their design is based on the vesc 4.12 you could simply measure the 5v rail via the ppm cable. 
For the 3.3v rail it would be a bit more complicated.
Oh jun1208 what I would do if I were you is talk to Flipsky and send it back. The plus version is not very reliable anyways and the anti-spark will die sooner or later running the vesc useless. And if possible I would wait until the new 4.20 comes out with the modified resistors so you dont have to do the swap yourself and then just add a ugly XT90S loopkey to that.
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I do really know their design but you could check with a multimeter in diode Check in you have continuity between the 5v and the GND, and between 3.3V and the GND. I’m not sure but I think if you remove the heatshink, they should be indicated on the mask of the pcb near each connector.
Also, if could take a picture of the underneat, I’m curious to see if they use both 5V reg from each DRV
here is also a step by step to check the 3.3V, but I’m not sue if will work great in this case, since they might have change the denomination of each components
And as @Schtekarsten I agree that it is probably best to contact flipsky, and check what they can do for you.
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But like someone mentioned in mine and Gamer43’s thread earlier: https://www.electric-skateboard.builders/t/flipsky-4-20-a-explanation-to-the-mystery-and-how-to-stop-the-cutouts-entirely/87824/43
If you like swapping out resistors you might have a few people standing on your doorstep with their 4.20 based vesc’s. As well as depending on the type of mosfets flipsky ends up using, you might want to offer some upgrades there as well. But that will be quite costly as you need 12 of them and on top of that you need to match the mosfets with the right resistors values to keep the slew rate in check.
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I haven’t got a multimeter with me so I can’t check as of now…
This is the pic of the vesc front and back
Great work from both of you guys in that thread 
I don’t see myself replacing the ones on this VESC unless I want a one way ticket to the bin for the VESC
Flipsky has offered to send me a replacement but they will only send the non plus version, which means I have to get an AS switch in order to use it…
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Im just going to assume this is personal opinion and leave it be.
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Get a xt90s loopkey instead then
Nop, I actually would love the the switch to be reliable, as that would be to my best interest. But don’t say I did not warn you. Sure it probably won’t blow the first time but, sooner or later.