Not sure, it came with the esc
take a usb calbe that you know transfers data
If it were me, I would assume that the included cable can be used for data.
It’s probably a driver issue.
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You said you tried acks and metr… have you tried the stock vesc-tool? https://www.vesc-project.com/vesc_tool… also… are you powering the vesc via a battery?
basicly cover the super basics, after that you got a real problem on your hands. @kalebludlow you never know. doesnt hurt to use another usb to test it.
Checking this tonight when I’m home as to if my cable does the same thing. But I’m willing to bet
I personally used the vesc tool and it works fine. Did u upgrade the firmware using the vesc tool
Just downloaded the stock vesc tool, gonna try that and yeah I’m powering the vesc with a battery
You guys are awesome! Downloaded the stock vesc tool, bought a data USB, was able to connect, changed a few things then took it for a test ride. I wasn’t ready for the torque and power, it tossed me off😂 though that might have been due to motor gears too (went from a 16 tooth to a 15). My new motors are twice as powerful as my last ones, the VESC is WAY better too. My last speed controller was just a normal ESC
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The cord supplied with my flipsky esc wouldn’t work either I used a Samsung phone cord to get my computer to recognise the connection
When they include non data usb cable for data communication damn those chinese 
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thats why IT always asked if you have turnt it off and on again and if all calbes are connected.
Probably just a faulty cable if I had to guess. That’d be something special to do a power only cable when the power doesn’t even connect 
My experience with this vesc was not a good one. Im runningg 10s5p HG2 li-ion pack. 6374 200kv motors.
I started out with recommended settings bldc 30a per motor etc… board had cutouts during hard accelaration (it was not a big deal to me). I had to accelarate in bursts or gradually. Foc with the same settings worked, but had more frequent cutouts. Iv put around 20 miles on the board with this settings. I did an experemental set up: 45a per motor with batt current max at 60. Riding on a flat ground at a decent speed, i did about a 2 second accelaration burst. Cutout happend, but contrary to previous cutouts, esc did not come back on. I turned off/on the esc and tried throttle again. Only one motor was spinning. I turned the esc off and walked home (about one mile). At home, i connected esc to my computer to see if maybe i need to run motor set-up wizard again. Motor that was running (slave side), had no issues. Master side motor Displyed a fault: bad detection or something similar. That was all in bldc mode. Well, i thought i would give foc detection a chance. Thats when fsvesc shorted. I was dodging components of esc, smoke, and blinding light as i was reaching to disconnect xt-60 loop switch. By the time i got it out, it was too late. Esc was fried. Two 5p cells of the battery went flat. Insulation rings on the surviving cells were in the poor shape, making them unuseable. So, not sure what went wrong here… this did cost me a good chunk of time and some american dollars. Flipsky did fefund me for esc. Ive since rebuild the battery and placed my old unbranded 60 dollar dual motor ebay esc that spits out 30 a per motor, never cuts out, and requires no programming (also feels torquier and gets me same top speed and better climbing than flipsky). You guys make your own decisions on this product, but im not a flipsky believer.
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mmh, your battery need some more insulation. nothing to do with the Fsesc though.
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What leads you to believe it was the ESC that shirted and what part of the ESC? I’m just curious, I can’t think of anything that would cause that kind of battery issue other than maybe a phase wire short.
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Here is how it went down:
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connect to faulty esc with bdlc tool in bldc mode
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Run detection several times, but keep on getting detection fault.
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Switch to foc detection on the affected side. Do two attempts at detection. In the middle of 2nd attempt of foc detection, i see a cloud of smoke rolling out of my esc enclosure, followed by esc pieces flying away from the esc. It prob took me about 10 seconds to pull the plug (because of the esc literally being on fire). 12 ga motor wires along with capacitors and parts of pcb fused together. My battery was starting to smoke as well.
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Right before esc caught on fire, motor was making a noise as if it was trying to spin.
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Like i mentioned previously, the same motor works fine with unbranded simple esc after the incident.
Based on where the short started and motor still working fine, i arrived at the coclusion that short started in the esc.
I take my time building batteries. This is not the first one i build. Never had a battery short on me.
This is how it looked before i took it apart.
Ive put extra isulation rings on positive terminals. Each side of the battery was shrink wrapped. I used 3 layers of 8mm .15 nickel strip. Balance cable wires were ran in an insulation channel to prevent potential contact with negative battery core. Each side of this battery was individually shrink wrapped. 1/2inch rubber devider was placed between two sides of the battery. Than, all of that was wrapped in a thick shrink wrap. Any possible friction point i would either pad or wrap with electrical tape before shrink wrap.
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