Ok help me out here folks… I’m getting cutouts in two separate occasions with my (edit: supposedly from the new stock with the correct resistors) Flipsky Dual 4.20.
First, I get cutouts when I’m in a congested intersections with lots of traffic lights. I’ve tried re-positioning the receiver in several locations in the enclosure, no improvement. I know people say the remote cutting out feels like the board is braking because of belt friction, but I think it’s actively lightly braking for a split second, just to jolt me a little bit. I never had these random cutouts with the Flipsky Dual 6.6.
Second, I get cutouts during hard acceleration, i.e. drag racing my friends. The board will cutout every time I go full throttle hard.
Vesc settings are 12s FOC, 20A battery amps, -10A battery regen, 60A motor, 30A motor brake. Any help would be appreciated!
to me this sounds like you got the old one. Just because they say they will send the new ones, doesnt mean they will. Can you confirm through visual inspection what type of resistors are used?
Yes, it’s a charge only BMS. I apologize for not being very knowledgeable about BMS’s, how would bypassing discharge create cutouts if the max battery current is properly being limited by the VESC? I should also mention that there are never any fault codes thrown according to my metr.pro.
That is good, I was checking to make sure it wasn’t the bms cutting out but you already have it bypasses. What sort of battery are you running? If it is small the high current drawn may cause it to sag below cut off voltages
Darn I missed out on a lot of details, braindead from pulling an all nighter for finals…
Anyways, I have a 12s2p with Samsung 30Q made by Cory from Hyperion. I’m a little skeptical it’s the battery because I didn’t have these issues with the 6.6. Regardless, I’ll update once I get a chance to peek inside the enclosure and make sure I have the updated 4.20 dual and also check all the wiring again. Thanks!
What they told me and @Gamer43 is that from the 27th of mars all 4.20 based VESC’s will be shipped with the the updated resistors (so cutouts should not be a problem) as for resellers and so on I have no idea.
I have had a bit of problems receiving the new dual 4.20 plus version from DHL. But hopefully it should be here in a day or two and then it will probably take a few days until I have tested the unit and gone through it properly.
The integrated anti-spark unit does not have pre charge so that will be a bit of Russian roulette I guess.
So I’m currently needing to purchase a dual-VESC for two 170kv motors, running a 10s4p 30Q battery. But I’m on a bit of a budget…
So my main plan was to get the Flipsky Dual 4.20, the ‘new’ plus version that’s on their website, direct from Flipsky. Is this likely to be a problem? Is it generally recommended that the 6.6 is the only one to go for?
Well, with @Schtekarsten posting his review of the updated 4.20 soon, I would wait a bit. I have a 6.6 dual, but it is overkill for my “born to be mild” nature.
Sorry to hear that!
You should be getting a “over current” fault thrown if it is the regular cutouts.
So that gets me thinking.
I have fooled myself by having too low of a battery voltage thinking it was the cutouts but in fact it was the Vesc cutting it off. As well as accidentally putting in higher voltage cutoff values than normal.
But y idk it all seems wired.
Do all the easy/obvious stuff first.
Go through the battery battery and check it’s voltage as well as if it is balanced or not.
Reset the Vesc settings and program it again.
Charge the remote.
Check all the wiring.
Idk can’t think of much else right now but to me that seems like a voltage cutout that is based on the Vesc.
Trouble shooting through the web is monkey science.
But y try to go through all the logical stuff.
To have it tested by one of the guys who engineered the fix is a pretty unique opportunity. If it gets the thumbs up, I’ll be getting one with all the trimmings.
that someone should be me…
i have received it but have not had the time to test it yet, sometime life gets in the way…
What I can say though just by looking at it is that it is a stepup from the last dual 4.20 versions. It uses double the amount of mosfets making it able to handle higher continues current. It does use a shit ton of mosfets on the antispark aswell making it more robust than I previously thought, it might actually last a while before it goes kaboom. whoo knows. the good thing though is that when/if it goes Kabooom it will just render the anti-spark unit useless and you should be able to just bypass the whole anti-spark part of the VESC and use a xt90s or an external antispark instead.
On a side note it does use 22ohm resistors which we tested out and recommended them to use in conjunction with the “better 612 mosfets” which they used on the pervious version of the dual 4.20 plus esc. but now they have reverted to the “cheeper 628 mosfets” that they always have used on the regular dual 4.20 vesc. but they have instead opted to double up on the 628 mosfets an put them in parallel.
in my tests the 47ohms where the resistors to use with the “cheeper 628 mosfets” and anything below that would make the vesc cut out. and what the F happens when you put the mosfets in parallel is beyond me (im too dumb for that). Maybe @Gamer43 could jump in and answer that.
Either way i will hopefully have some time over tomorrow to test that out. My belt drives are on the healing bench at the moment and so it will have to be on some Chinese hubs until they get back on track. However if I yank up the settings it should not make a difference though.
sorry for being a slow shit. I will continue to post on this thread when I find out some more cool shit regarding the Vesc’s. who knows if it will be fire or love.
