Something happened with the vesc that was cutting off now shorts out when i touch it to the battery, i resoldered half of the resistors that looked bad but still shorts out. Can i remove all the resistors and see if it still shorts out without resistors so i can see if the problem is somewhere else
MOSFETs failed.
Continuity test each phase with vcc and ground.
Any chance you have a picture of the mosfets
what amps can it still do safely without the resistor swap?
well in my case I will use it on a regular hub cruiser, maybe 15amps per motor max, not sure if I should go threw all the hasle of finding someone to change them.
when did you get the vesc btw? and from where? what model is it? and what is you battery and motor setup?
I bought it new, but from a user, no idea of the exact model. It will be used with 10s3p 30q pack on meepo 1.5 hubs.
yeah looks like it is and old dual 4.20 with 4R7 (4.7 ohms = old shit) resistors, the pictures zoomed out so I canāt see properly . Cutouts will be there my friend I have riden a 10s4p 30q with china hubs for like 4-5months with the cutouts so you should be fine and you will learn after a while when they occur and what the limit will be at. and depending on temperatures and so on the hubs are real easy to cook. as a reference 24 battery and 40 ish motor. and a ride longer than 7-8 km going full throttle everywhere 83kg and you will have the motors heat up to the point where the urethane sleeve goes lose from the heat 20cĀ° outside temp. Iām rocking a infra temp sensor for like 20 dollars. and you want to stay below 65cĀ° really or the urethane goes soggy and lose, which creates more drag and heats up the motor even more.
up to you but the resistor swap is not that hard to do tbh. watch my video regarding the swap. and a few others regarding soldering and get your hands on some decent tools and you are golden. unfortunately arrow doesnāt have free worldwide shipping anymore.
but it is fine on that setup really. the hubs are a pretty close second bottleneck in terms of continues. sure the cutouts are more geared towards the acceleration and from slower speeds so two different kinds of bottlenecks. I guess. but it will get you from point a to b and do 37+ km/h. 12s is more nice on these hubs if you like some more speed. but then again you will consume the selves alot quicker through heat
I would go for something like 20A battery max 35-40 motor. hybrid/sensored or senseless FOC, change the switching frequency to 25-30kHz (FOC --> advanced tab), and positive ramping time to 0.4-0.5sec. And then play around with the settings from there. be mindful of the hub temps. if you canāt hold onto the outside aluminum plate of the hubmotor with your palm pressed to it for more then like 5 sec you know you are pushing it. and they will be crusty from water ingress and other shit aswell and are quite cheap to replace so for it. but you wont have a rocketpoweredmurdermachine under your feet either way, but pretty dope non the less.
there is also a massive difference in the heat capabilities between the 4.20 versions. de regular dual and single 4.20 being at the bottom the old 4.20 plus in between and new dual 4.20 being quite fucking amazing. main differences being the mosfets used: 628 --> 612 --> dual rows 628. For reference Iām rocking 12s4p 30q, dual 6355, 40 battery, 60 motor on my prototype boards and Iām going at least 55km/h everywhere possible and probably at places where I shouldnātā¦ Iām quite the wind resistance at 192cm strait always strait legging it at 83 kgs. and Iām normally sitting between 60-65 CĀ°. and it is summer here in Sweden so not freezing anymore 20-25c and sitting siliconed into and airtight enclosure.
Btw i will have some pretty dope boards coming out of my parents garage in a few months just saying 
idk should we start a thread regarding this stuff on the forum.esk8.new site as well as it seems that place is way more active now?
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I think you guys should go for it man 
Itās much active there compared to hereā¦
Hello @Schtekarsten @Gamer43 @chrischo1996 I am configuring my VESC 4.20 plus but I still have cuts. I bought it in May, so you already have the update of the resistors and capacitors of March. I read all this thread (also others in the forum about this), but I canāt keep my board from working properly.
My board has two Flipsky 6054 190KV / VESC Flipsky dual 4.20 plus / 10s4p 25r engines with BMS 100A for loading and unloading.
I start walking a few meters at low speed, increase the speed a bit and get a cut. I turn it on again, I do a few more meters and it almost does not matter if it is at low or high speed since it is cut again.
I tried the settings that Flipsky recommends:
Current Max Motor: 30A
Current Max Brake Motor: -25A
Absolute Maximum Current: 130A
Slow ABS Current Limit: True
Battery Current Max: 30A
Battery Current Max Regen: -25A
Current Limit
16
I also tried:
Current Max Motor: 50A
Current Max Brake Motor: -50A
Absolute Maximum Current: 130A
Slow ABS Current Limit: True
Battery Current Max: 60A
Battery Current Max Regen: -55A
Current Limit
16
I would like to know if I am doing something wrong? I donāt understand why I get cuts?
Were you able to see what the faults were exactly?
What advanced VESC settings are you running?
FOC?
@Gamer43 I am testing the configuration:
BLDC
60A (Flipsky 6354 engines can receive 65A maximum current.)
-50A (I feel comfortable with a -50A brake for how little I can walk before the cuts begin.)
25A
-4A
I was reading a lot and analyzing each option and according to what I understood, my battery can deliver 60A (maybe 80A) of direct current. And be regenerated in a 4A peak.
Then I should give a maximum of 30A to each VESC, but it would be better to put a value below so that it has margin. Thatās why I chose 25A.
Just tomorrow I will be able to go out to test if everything is going well. But according to your point of view, am I correct with this configuration?
Hey, sorry for the delays in replies.
Yes, those current settings should be fine. If you are still getting cutouts, please let us know. If so, try to provide additional detail on the cutouts, such as exactly which fault the VESC is throwing and conditions the fault is thrown.
Waiboard,
If when the cutout happens, you need to turn off and back on again in order to get it working, I would suggest checking your battery. I had this issue and this is what was going on for me. My battery had been made with the BMS protecting discharge, even though I had asked for it to be bypassed. Whenever the VESC would pull more than 20A, it would shut off and I would have to power off/on (in my case with a loop key, and Iām sure I killed a few anti-spark switches with this problem) in order to run again. Also, I could readily reproduce the problem by hard accelerating/brake to draw alot of amps.
Edit: Nevermind, I see you built your battery. Iād suggest checking the output voltage when the shutdown occurs. If your VESC shows no input voltage, your BMS may be no good.
Unless you made the battery yourself, I suggest cutting the battery shrink a little so that you can see where the wires are connected to the BMS, and you can always seal it back up with tape when youāre done provided you are careful while cutting the wrap.
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I have already been able to solve my problem of cuts. The subject was in my battery. The company where I sent to build my battery did it without having previously measured the cells. My BMS has the bluethoot connection option to verify all values, thatās when I see that two cells were unbalanced. At that time I did not give so much importance because I considered that the BMS could balance it automatically (thinking without experience in BMS). One of them marked approximately 3500mv while the other 3300mv. So when charging my battery, the BMS made a voltage detection by firing the protection by individual high voltage cell when reaching the value 4250mv for that cell. While the others were just at 3700mv. At the same time the app has a strange way of responding, because at the time that alarm / protection was triggered the total value went to 100% but in reality the battery had just over 35%. That made when the speed and braking tests went out, the motors consumed the current set in the VESCs but the battery did not have that current stored. By triggering another alarm / protection and turning off the VESCs.
Conclusion: all these errors made me know much more about my battery, my VESC, my BMS and its app. So I do not see what happened so badly, beyond time and the frustration of the moment.
So do the new 4.20 duel plus fsesc have any cut out issues? I got mine in early july and have been riding it plenty hard with absolutely 0 issues. I am running 10s5p 30q cells on 6.5" pnumatic with duel 6355 flipsky motors. Itās actually my girlfriendās board as Iām still waiting for my parts(Iām running 12s5p 30q with the duel fsesc 6.6 plus). According to the vesc app I have gotten the motors up to 110amps and around 2300w going up hill with no problems. Iām very happy with this vesc so far. My only issue is the voltage display in the vesc app is sporadic and jumps around + or - 8% or so. I think itās something to do with flipsky vescs because my old board did the samething and it had the older large fsesc 6.6. I expect my new 6.6 will do it as well. I know the voltage is stable and just the way it reads on the app since it looks fine with my multi meter.
After sitting for a few months (3-4), my board doesnāt perform the same. The battery stayed charged, however, Iāve got inconsistent performance from the controller and motors. Should I just re-program? Or could there be a different issue going on?