Did Flipsky do any revisions for the 6.6 or 6.6 plus?
ā¦ donāt if I can do this change one day, if someone want a dual FS 4.20 PM me 
Iāll try with those you sent to me and keep you posted. If ok, Iāll do it on your dual.
1 Like
Test run today, in foc, I had a drv error in my living room trying to move slowly on the tile from a standstill, had to unplug and plug the loop key back in. Then I rode it outside around the block a few times and all seemed ok, maybe Iāll give it a kick before I get on the throttle from now on. I like how quiet it is now, Iāve never ridden it in bldc to be fair though.
Edit sensor-less keda 190kv motors
Ok, DO NOT FOC this 4.20 Bad advice above, it is not fine. I had the drv error the other night I unplugged and plugged back in and it worked, today I pushed off the head to the store before work and got the drv error, Itās not going away this time.
Iāve been running the revised 4.20 dual in 12S FOC mode no problems for hundreds of miles now. What are your settings?
1 Like
Motor 60,-60 Battery 30,-10
I mustnāt have done the best soldering job, my test ride came back with one side not functioning properly and when I try to motor detect, it fails
1 Like
Those settings seek reasonable, make sure your phase wires between motor and vesc are 100% in and insulated, I had similar cutouts due to this before.
Most likely a cold joint, a lot of flux and lightly tapping with a tinned iron should do the trick.
After some contemplation I got 2x FSESC 4.12 Miniās for my small build while I was in china. Got it for TaoBao prices so cannot complain. So far itās been good. Running them on a Chinese iFasun KIT with 10S2P Samsung battery pack and unknown KV motors. I run them in FOC and had no issues with CANbus either. Got them together with VX1 remote and their BLE module, both plugged in on UART ports and work seamlessly together. This is a rather small board with small battery so the amps on the VESCs are quite small but the board still gives very impressive performance. I think I have my motors at 40A each but with 40A max output on the battery, but not 100% sure.
Im looking ebuy and there is 47.5k and 47.5R is there any difference 
Yes thereās a huge difference, 47.5K is 47 THOUSAND five Hundred ohms.
I would highly recommend purchasing from an electronics distributor such as digikey, mouser, or Arrow.
2 Likes
what do you think about lcsc? good or bad distributor?
Should work, I just recommend digikey, mouser, arrow since they will most likely be able to deliver sooner and for cheaper. (Arrow offers free shipping).
2 Likes
Well ive ordered 5k units from arrow and got them last night. Spent about 3-4 hours and dont get me wrong i like soldering stuff like wires, joints, motors but this tiny shit that moves in any direction i hated it. I think ive dont it double and triple checked it looks ok. I tested it on the vesc tool works. So i set it for the parameters that for sure canāt handle.
Motors 55A
Brake - 45A
Batt. 30A
Regen - 20
And left the battery on 37.5v so if they die i dont leave the battery on full
So today i went for a ride and it fricking works lol
Keda 6364 190kv are flying from start in BLDC
I feal a bit the mid to high acceleration is lower than before but that can be the battery. So im charging it to full for a test. Battery is 10s6p Samsung 35E 
1 Like
So everything is fine until i hard ride it for 20 min then when i hard accelerate one of the motors cuts out and comes back on in 10-20sec then i can ride it again for some time like 2-5 min before doing the same. What can be the problem, overheating?
hard to say! it could be your battery sagging/getting low or the VESC itself overheating. Are you running street wheels or phnumatics? and what version of the vesc are you on? If you have a bt-module you will easily be able to determine what it is.
as a reference I can fairly easily get the dual 4.20 base module up to 80+ degrees on street wheels. but then I am pretty much flooring it all the time doing 55-60 km/h every time I get a chance to. and it is the constant acceleration and braking that is causing it for me not cruising at high speeds. running 12s and 40 battery 60 motor on each side btw. phnumatics and hard riding and you really need move up in the esc ladder. but again there are just a gazillion factors coming to play
So i did this and got a snap crackle and pop (no big deal cause learning) but im curious if thereās a good sanity check to make sure everything is soldered correctly.
I note that on my dual - Vesc #0 motor phase wires were reading something insanely low, like 30-40Ohms. Where as on Vesc #1 i read out 80+ (not sure what the actual value was). With that being said, what is the expected Ohm resistance on the VESC after the mod is finished - i suspect that i can use this to determine if at least one side of the VESC was correctly done or not.
As well as look into seeing if anything was damaged and fix that along with the likely incorrectly soldered resistors.
Sounds like one or more of the resistors were not soldered on completely. Make sure to use lots of flux and a well tinned iron with lead solder, I recommend tacky flux from chip quik or MG chemicals.
Visual inspection of the joint is usually enough. The resistor should be well aligned with the pads and the joint be very shiny.
Cold or faulty joints can result in shootthrough and subsequent shortcircuit, causing serious problems. I had this happen to myself.