and? 
what you dont want to accept is that any material will trap heat
The air inside the battery pack, will heat up faster than the silicone
that has nothing to do with anything i said
Ok, so the danger here being pushing the batteries hard, they generate heat yeah ?
pushing the batteries hard is not per say a danger
But that is the only source of energy
that and the physical movement u get from using the energy of the batteries
alright, your argument has gone wayy out of wackā¦
lets see how your battery turns out. i know how batteries generate heat lol
Ok then. Good night
- Broad temperature rangeperformance; cured material stays flexible from -85 to 350Ā°F (-65 to 177Ā°C)
So. if the cells ever catch fire, at least my silicone wonāt burn as good as yours. LOL
Remains elastic without cracking. Resistant to aging. Withstands temperatures from -50 Ā° C to + 250 Ā° C, for shorter periods up to +300 Ā° C
Would u change to dow corning 737 neutral Cure for gluing the backside ?
It tells you on the site
Ordered the main parts yesterday: dual 6374-190kv TB motors - 13s4p diy -dual Focbox - Arbor Prodigy 38" - DIY 97mm wheels - TB218 trucks - reverese Mount - 15mm wide belts 16t (65kg skateboarder on top)
Comments on setup ?
Youāre missing a Full face helmet, knee pads, elbow and the rest of safety equipment to save your ass.
In all honesty I have to question your 13s build. I think you should be swimming in the 6ft end, instead of trying a go at cliff diving.
As for your equipment, it is fine. Of course their are better options but thatās all you really need. Also, look for bushings for tb218. Riptide bushingsā¦ there is a thread dedicated to it. What size wheel pulley are you getting? What remote? Are you getting a BT module? Why didnt you get 107s or 110s since your going for speed?
Lastly go over again on the thread posted earlier
You will need the expertise of the builders from this thread.
Good luck.
Haha, Yeah i have all the safety Equipment inhouse, i always wear a helmet. I dont know i just thought everyone is building 12s and i thougth why not 13, i might reduce topspeed in focbox settings if its to fast. I didnt want to go to high over ground, since i ride regular skateboard alot With 53mm Wheels. i wanted to keep the feeling of not getting to high over ground, and also my el-skate for now has 83mm Wheels. i know about riptide bushings, will check them out, thank you, i want some possibillity for carving but not for speed wobbles. I bought the set from DIY so its 16/36 , i have an ownboard Remote spare and i ordered a nano x With the focbox coming as soon as their delay is over. Not sure if i need the BT module, for battery pack i ordered a bestech D140 13s BMS
Ohh Yeah and i have the Sunkko 709A for spot Welding, building a flat 13s4p setup. 0.2x10mm nickel strips double up on the series Connection. What AWG cable should i use for series Connection ?
IMOā¦ I hate the Nano X. Really canāt stand it as I have had a few drop outs while using it. It is stuck in my shit pile at the moment. In terms of less expensive reliable options, Mini Remote, Maytech v2 and Benchwheel remote are my budget favs. In terms of higher quality, you have Hoyt.
Here is an article to better explain http:///esk8-remotes-garbage-or-greatness/
What helmet by chance do you have? Hopefully full face since you are planning on going over 30s. You do know you only need a 10s build with the right gearing to get to that speed right? 12s easily puts you into 30mph range. The 13s guys here are absolute speed demons that usually run LY EVO decks. Hell I have a 12s build that does 40mph. I rather have the range to go with the speed. Also, my current setup has switched from going high speeds to more torque. It now is more satisfying having the ample pull up any incline with the sudden surge of torque. I have toned down the high speeds to 30-35mph now a days. Seems to be plenty fast.
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I dont think i ever will wear a full face helmet. Look at Bicycle riders in tour de france and other races, they ride over 100 km/h with that egg of a helmet excuse. Its not that i plan on riding that fast, but i like the idea of having enough Power to maybe full throttle for a split second or two just to get the adrenaline going. I think torque will be ok With the two 6374`s. I only weigh around 65kg. As i also mentioned, i too might tone it Down in the focbox settings, i might even build a 12s4p not connecting the last plus cable from BMS. About the Remote Control i appreciate the feedback. I really like the thumb operation , and not the first finger operation so i will definetely check out options, thanks for taking time to respond.
Bad example with bicycle riders. They donāt have electronics that can fail and make you imitate superman down the asphalt.
Let me bring you into the light of DIY. You are rolling down the road at around 65kph, in a nice tuck position, nothing feels wrong, everything feels great. Out of nowhere, your anti spark fails/remote signal drop/erpm limitation is met, which now without warning sends you flying off your board. Unlike a speed wobble, you arenāt going to have time to react. It is damn you running full speed down the street and your shoes laces come untied. As you are in full stride you step on your lace and fly face first into the ground. That is the dangers of DIY esk8. Sometimes shit like this happens, therefore you do you absolute best to protect yourself for all possibilities.
You need to think of downhill skaters with the addition of electronics. I know for a fact if you take a look around and see the stories of broken bones and sadly even death that can come from these machinesā¦ you will understand why the majority of us stress full face. Do you have to do so? Hell noā¦ your skull, your body, you do what you want. I am just giving fair warning as you are new to the DIY world. Shit is serious with the speeds you will reach with the type of build you are planning.
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I hear ya mate, thanks for the fair warning, those cases described, have they actually happened or ar those imaginary ? I thought motors never brake if a signal failure or lost comm ?