Hi, i have been wanting to build eboard for quite some time now, but didnt have enough money. Long story short, first paycheck came, here we go
So my budget is around 300$. I know, its not much, but i dont need uber specs.
The goal of the build is to get range around 4-5km, which is one way trip to uny.
Max speed cca. 20km/h - minimum 10km/h
No steep hills, or hills at all.
Remote - [~20$]
I plan to build my own, using AVR/ARM with NRF and joystick, 400mAh Lipo, for begining i have drone remote. Got most of the parts for this.
Hi!
If you go single drive better to chose a 63xx motor. The 5065 will probably be a bit weak and heat up fast.
If you go 63xx it’s likely that the motor mounts you choose will not fit. Look here in the forum, there are a lot of good and stable motor mounts available for a good price too.
The charger you choose is for life4po batteries.
They have a different end voltage. If you use LiIon cells look for a LiIon/lipo charger.
For the loopkey use better a xt90s (maybe that’s what you anyhow will do but it’s written only xt90)
Where is the enclosure? It’s included in the deck?
If you make your own battery you will need good nickel stripes and fischpaper too.
Get some neoprene tape to seal things up, plus you can use it for damping your cells and electronics.
Aaand don’t forget the helmet
Stay save!
I had the same ‘‘budget’’ issues that you had before. I was opting for 400 euros top, now I’m spending close to 600. You will spent more as you progress, certainly if this is your first build. You would need tools, and much much more which will all add up. If you are on this low budget you can better get like the Meepo campus 2 or something, DIY is fun, but expensive and time-consuming. I’m not trying to hold you back, I’m just informing you about what DIY really is. I highly underestimated the knowledge, time, effort and money it took for me to complete my first board. It’s close to finishing tough.
I wouldn’t recommend building your own batteries for your first build. It’s risky and the learning curve is high. Very easy to mess things up. Instead I would recommend you get some LIPOs from hk. I think they will suffice, and they aren’t so expensive either.
You also don’t have trucks, wheels, bearings in your list. I would recommend Caliber II. Get a matching mount and you’ll be good.
To save money, wait for people that are offering a good deal on many parts alltogether.
For example the drive-train. This way you save a lot on shipping.
The way I got parts for my board was with 1 huge deal on everything exept battery. It was cheap, good and I know the parts functioned well with each other.
Consider a used boosted board. It will be more powerful than what you can do DIY at this price, and be a more polished product as well. In California at least, a used v1 dual plus can be had under 400.
The 5060 was tested by friend and the motor didnt heat up significantly after 30min ride, and i plan maybe in future go dual 5065. But ill consider bigger motor (with bigger motor, i would go different mounte and wheels)
Uh i goofed up on charger, didnt notice Lifepo there, wil find another one.
Whats the difference between xt90S and xt90 exactly? The differ in only male part, right?
Enclosure will come after, i dont plan to do a final enclosure until holidays when i will do a fibreglass/carbon enclosure, until then 3D printed with metal sheet to reinforce. I didnt calculate in the price because i have a few spools of filament.
I have scrap nickel strip/copper busbars at work so i planned to use that.
Good call on neoprene, i planed on some random material, but neoprene is great.
Will get helmet for sure. I dont have much longboard riding xp. Thank you for detailed advice and help.
Yeah i planed to spend more later on. I just want to get feeling for components, and maybe sell/give this board away. I want to DIY and not buy board, because i would be missing half of fun there. Its much easier but not as rewarding. I’m EE student, so its not my first project, i have basic tools, and rest i can get at work.
For battery building, i also have tools at work and people have experience in this, so thats the reason im opting for that.
I have a complete board with trucks, wheels and everything in first link (board not deck). But if i go for bigger motor i will look into Caliber II, thanks for advice
If you’re doing a budget build, maybe consider going for a small, nimble board (like the Jet Spud) instead of a longboard? It will feel faster, even with small motors.
Absolutely do NOT buy that motor mount. You will have to buy another one. Firstly, any motor mount where the hole (that the truck hanger goes through) is round WILL NOT WORK unless you weld it onto the hanger. Secondly, the fact that they tell you no details means it’s certainly a 3M belt and pulleys, which will have to be replaced because they slip and are not compatible with anything else in the esk8 market.
Under no circumstances should you buy that motor mount.
Under no circumstances should you buy any pulley where the tooth profile and belt width is not specified (you want HTD-5M profile).
12s isn’t always reliable on cheaper vescs, and I agree I have 10t sprockets at 12s and can do 55km/h it’s scary. Also I prefer the custom mounts as they can be stronger and the right length for the chain, the hk one might not be the right size
12s reliability might be an issue yeah, wish we had more trustworthy data to give us a definitive answer on this. 20 percent more power for possibly reduced reliability, not an obvious choice for sure.
9t, 12s, and the largest sprocket on the wheel that you can fit will put you at about about 40 km/h. I’m running 9:27 with 76mm wheels and quite satisfied with my torque/speed tradeoff.
BTW it’s easy to adjust chain length with a master link and a chain tool.
I like the hk mount because it is much thicker than almost all other mounts and therefore stronger.
Stay save!
Good choice