I remember @ralphy had poblems with clone hubs but now the pictures show the original jacob hubs so I think he is talking about the originals ones. Maybe @ralphy you play with open cards because we had this game already with jacob a few months.
@NAF Do you know if this wheels are good ones and fit on jacob’s hubs?
This is Jacob’s manufacturer so the wheels should fit perfectly. It’s still harder duro - 83a than what he has shipped you guys so I think this rubber might be a lot less softer.
I don’t play games. I have an excellent history with PayPal and eBay and I stated I will test everything before shipping.
You can do as you choose.
And the new wheel isn’t the link provided because it hasn’t gone into production yet.
But it is the same motor - basically you are just reselling them. Jacob even said at one point that his motors are a little different torque wise compared to the “official” ones.
I’m solving fundamental design and production deficiencies with my solutions and guranting results. Has anyone done that?
I don’t want to speak out of turn, but having followed this thread from the start (and owning a pair of @jacobbloy’s hubs which I am deciding whether to use for my new build), I don’t think there is much of an issue with someone else taking up the batten and running with these hubs.
@jacobbloy has put a serious amount of work into the hubs, and should be given full credit for this. But by his own admission he has come unstuck, he’s not participating in the forum/this thread anymore (unlike the active way @Hummie responded to initial issues with his hubs), and consequently people are feeling / have been, let down.
These hubs were always short run, pre-production betas - if someone else wants to drive the design forward and improve what is fundamentally a good product for the benefit of the community, then why not? In the DIY tradition, I’d like to see what we can do to improve the quality/reliability of the hubs for those of us that already have them. If all it involves is improving the phase wires, adding nubs, and new urethane, maybe better grub screws, surely that will help out a lot of crew that are sitting there with dud hubs at the moment.
It may even help out @jacobbloy if cheap solutions can be found that create a marketable product for any stock he has left that he can then sell through to people.
I still think hubs are the future compared to belts and outrunners. I hope we can salvage something out of the @jacobbloy hubs.
JM2CW 
Actually, just thinking about it, it would be great if @jacobbloy would come back onto this thread and provide a bit of advice and guidance for us all. I am sure there must be things he learned in developing the hubs and working with Chinese manufacturers that could assist us in solving some of the design issues.
I know people have asked in the past couple of months for @jacobbloy to be more open and to assist without getting any response from him. I think it would go a long way to clearing the air if he did… 
I’m sure Jacob is frustrated with people’s complaints and the logistics of production and the difficult quality control process of dealing with overseas manufactures.
The biggest difference I had between the clones and these was heat issues and crappy bunched up windings on the first one.
This second set is much improved. The 3d printed knubs don’t come off or melt at all as long as the metal is scraped and cleaned. Also it has not allow the current rubber to slip at all but once it warms you feel a slight high frequency vibration at speeds over 20mph due to the little play that’s induced as the urethane heats up.
The permanent solution to a silky smooth ride is fusing the urethane to the metal and that’s in the works. It will basically keep the urethane bound to the metal permanently.
Given the heat, mechanical resistance and cure time neseesary of the adhesive it will take me another week before I nail it down. So far ive gone through 5 different epoxies / adhesives and I have a top US manufacture helping out.
@ralphy So that means Jacob is not envolved in your project and you have a deal with the manufacturer of jacob’s hubs? If so I would like to know Jacob’s opinion about this. It’s a pity that he doesn’t talk with us anymore.
What happens when the urethane starts to thin out if it’s bound permanently?
You show us how you managed to thin out that much urethane and we all praise you on the forum.
Then I will personally refit them for free with new urethane if you bought the entire setup upgraded by me.
Here are the 3d print knubs secured with a high strength cyanoacrylate…lol known as superglue.
This shows how they stayed in place after 12 miles of riding.
There are two US adhesive epoxy manufactures getting me samples that have confirmed will yeild excellent results.
Attached is a pic of the surface roughning to prepare it for the adhesive bind.
I dont think its about Jacob being involved with my project as much as it is me being involved with jacobs project.
From an engineering point of view looking from the center outward this project and design is a success. Bearings, caps, winding , power , and overall quality of design. The one fundamental flaw is the rubber and the mechanism of keeping it in place. Jacob is an electrical engineer and so is my father and its an excellent electrical engineering project as far as i can tell. Where things went wrong is in the mechanical engineering part of the friction component.
It reminds me of my high school days and my automotive tech classes, the instructor used to mention how tires where more important than brakes when it came to stopping a car. The actual friction component that makes the ultimate contact with the road surface is the most important component.
By the way 3 different urethane inserts from 3 different manufactures should be arriving shortly for those that feel troubled by the thought of permanently binding a wheel to the motor.
Yes I agree, Jacob’s hubs are a good design and they work great with a few modifications. Since I glued the urethane and inserts on the motor I didn’t have any problems and like to ride them. If Jacob could turn back the time, for sure he would be successfull, but now his head stuck in the sand. 
Ok crazy thought since I’ve been reading this thread…
Is there away just to tac weld some square rods across the motor, like two, on opposite sides and make a wheel mold from that…?
Yeah it would mean everyone would need to do the same procedure to thier hubs but I think it would make them useable.
Just an idea…maybe you guys should have a thread o about how to fix these hubs … seems at this point nothing is a crazy idea and would help in the future development of @jacobbloy project… If you are supporting him now, that means you see a future for his hubs…how about we try to spin this negative into something that will become positive result for everyone in the future?
You can tag weld sure with a mig welder but that’s kind if alot of work and the heat generated can damage the magnets…cracks unglue etc.
The idea is not to make a new mold but instead allow for a fix that would enable the use of what already is in production.
I’m binding one wheel to the motor and the other motor ive coated the entire surface with a rubberized compound and allowing it to bind to the metal before installing the wheel. Hopefully one of those two yields positive results with the current wheels.
There are more optimal winding solutions if you feel confident removing c-clips and calculating improved torque without increased heat.
Also, buy a set of 4x 90mm wheels off ebay and take a lathe or drill press to them. No slippage ever. That said, I had to use a vice to press them onto his motors. Plus you can put the other 2x wheels on whatever other hub motor you end up building!
What do you think about durometer of a 90 mm wheel would be good for the hubs and is it possible to core it with a lathe if they have a soft durometer?
In order to keep the wheels still while coring them, I laid an old car brake disk over the Thane and then pressed the hole bit into the wheel. Lathes can do it, but you need to be more gentle. I suggest the drill press because it makes a super tight fitting wheel cover.
OH ALSO CUT THE GROVES FIRST. THEN CORE THE WHEEL. I have a marginally bumpy ride because I didn’t add the groves to the first wheel.
Photo Credits - Leah 2016
