I dont think that more rows are good… VTC6 are labeled as 30C conti… so 240A conti as 8P
Really not sure with my parallel taps… @barajabali can i ask you mate how many layers you would add by a battery like this?
“labeled”, but, if I remember correctly, testing showed they should have been rated closer to 15A. …or did you mean 80-100A… per motor :)?
For 7mm X 0.15mm, I think the rule of thumb is ~7A per strip (but closer to 5a being ideal):
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I will check the video later… being on work
No meant the specs, 30a is what they called
Holy shit you say 5-7A … thats nothing NOTHING (-;
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What about adding copper like @whitepony did with his first pack ? @rojitor makes also battery pack with copper strips instead of nickel for high amps.
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maybe some heavy duty rails inspired by this build?
pfft… who needs wires anyhow 
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I have quite some Experience with the sony VTC series, they are used in Makita Packs too. the Problem with rising AmpHours was rising Heatproduction. So on the Specs of teh VTC6 its 15A without BMS and Heat-control everything above heat should be monitored. Same for VTC5 here is some really good test of the VTC6 http://lygte-info.dk/review/batteries2012/Sony%20US18650VTC6%203000mAh%20%28Green%29%20UK.html you see that with 20A and 30A the VTC6 never reaches the maximum dicharge Ah cause of overheating above 80°C
VTC5A acts alittle different (less heat production) and VTC4 really takes 40Amps easily wihout crazy heat production
So Jenso please be gentle on them in the beginning or monitor the heat of the Pack. otherwise it could happen that you harm the cells.
But you have to test it in real world, the Problem with YOU is that you are probably very similar to those discharge tests above High-Amps and that continiously without cooldown breaks inbetween 
I even feels the difference with my Mykita Power tools, the VTC4Packs take tons of big wood-screws without problems the VTC6 Pack needs a few rests to cool down (controlled by the internal Pack-BMS, it just cuts out)
but its Possible
i just moved my bindings a bit and fitted this Monsters between my feet
http://esk8content.nyc3.digitaloceanspaces.com/uploads/db2454/optimized/3X/9/0/9080ea3f70680f73479777f13c2e51763a0428c0_1_666x500.JPG
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Thanks for the input.
Okay lets take the 15A @8P for 120A cont.
Thats more then enough, you will not pull this continiuos, no way IMO…
Ant take this super low 5-7A per 7x0.15 and lets double it just for now… so 10A per layer dividet through 120A is 12 layers … WTF
If we calculate with the 5A its 24 layer… 
No one will add that much on fking nickelstrips…
Adding copper is maybe better solution…
But that makes me not happy… will check the video/treads you guys posted
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from the looks of it this packs might fit nicely into a b&w outdoor type 1000 Internal Dimensions: 250 x 175 x 95 mm http://www.b-w-international.com/product/type-1000/
No box… just industrial heat shrink… This big boxes looks so bulky… i dont like it
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to each their own 
I personally like the clean look and the waterproof features
Yeah of course… I used UK Boxes in the beginning of my builds for the Lipos… It has advantages of course
@notger In the video he refers mainly to the series connection… he got one parallel tab and only increase the serial connection by additional tabs for higher current… confusing
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This might help with the current ratings
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=68005
I think the @whitepony aproach is best and less time consuming
Nice work, now I thing range will not be a problem
@Nowind it’s starting to be like my build mate 
I’ve actually got mine pulled apart as I finally got a real case for the battery. Once I finish setting that up (I’m on holidays come this weekend for 2 weeks ) I will setup the app and see exactly how much amperage I pull. I didn’t really add much nickel strips to be honest. I’ve had no issues with mine.
Our’s are near identical now, only mine is belt and yours is direct. Oh and my batteries are Samsung iirc I got them with @lox897 from NKON (12s8p)
I think one 7mm X 0.15mm nickelstrip for the parallel connections would also be sufficient. The current should flow through the series connections and not between the individual cells on the same voltage level. Did I oversee something? Because I see a lot of 18650 builds using also thick connections between the parallel cells and from my electrical point of view that is not useful at all, because the currents should be low between parallel cells. Just little balancing currents flowing. The thickness is important for the series connection, because all the current is flowing through these connections and the cells. When the 5-7A are a valid value (haven’t checked that) I would calculate for a 120A continuous battery like this: Max battery current for example 160A (the +40A just as a safety margin. Adjust that so your current spikes are under this max limit) That means 160A/8(number of parallel cells)=20A through every individual 18650 cell. 20A/5A(current one stripe could handle from the infos posted above)=4. So that would result to 4 layered stripes between each cell in the series connection. (Maybe crossing would be a good idea also, but it looks like your cell holders could be a problem there)
I hope you get from the picture what I mean.
I haven’t build such a battery myself so all thoughts are just based on theory. Maybe someone with battery building experience can confirm that or tell me where I am wrong.
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Thanks.
Yeah i read alot on ES on this tread.
This Nickel band is a pussy (-; it carries so low currents… a 22AWG copper wire is big boss compared 
Still not sure about …
Ha yeah nice Dude, 80mm is badass and the VESC6 is really the best ESC ever happen to mine. Actually upgrading some parts … maybe you will like it also (-; think BIG
So you stay with one/two strips for both kind of connections? Parallel and Series?
Super nice that you chime in… interresting point of view… this would be awesome if its true I´m not expierenced enough to say so… maybe some of the batterie gurus like to comment @whitepony @barajabali
Yes i got it… ordered yesterday some flat copper stuff 10x3mm …3meters… would be nice if i NOT have to use it on every parallel connection 
Cheers
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Holy sh*t. 30mm² is bigger than an AWG3 wire. You definitely don’t need that for parallel connections… What is your plan on how to connect the copper with your battery? In my imagination that copper would suck the heat that bad when soldering, that your 18650er would already be dad before the pack is ready.
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Ah just saw this by ebay yesterday… can be used for many things 
Anyway, I have the same opinion as @hexacopter about parallel connection. The current won’t flow by these strips.
Can’t wait to see those 3mm thick copper stuffs on your pack.
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