keep in mind that your battery will just very rarely truly see the max per cell current. the calculations on the ES forum were meant for continuous current in a strip.
I really think I have been among the first to reinforce serial connections because of that post, but in the end so many batteries with just a single nickel strip still work. why? because for normal riders under normal conditions your board usually pulls around 200watt, which is just 5-10A on a 10S battery.
I ended up with a simple rule of thumb: one pure nickel 10x0.15mm layer per “P”. its gives you some headroom for accelerating/braking a lot, but is definitely over engineered for the majority of riding time. the upside of stacked nickel layers: you get a structurally very stable battery.
@Nowind I have your direct drive on my Urban carver. Do you think that sound is normal? And there is a little drag. But I am not sure, my other board had a belt drive. BTW, love your work on Vesc6 waiting for mine atm. Hopefully this will be a real breeze compared to max6 punch.
sounds like your backlash is set too tight MrRobot (@gogomrrobot)
The gears should not be pushed tightly together
There needs to be a small amount of play for proper meshing of the gears
Try setting them a bit looser, if you hold the motor you need to get a small amount of play at the wheel. Do you get what I mean? At the spur gears it might be a fraction of a mm, but at the increased diameter of the wheel it will be seen as mm’s of movement.
edit: your motor wires not being connected, make sure they are not touching
OK… let me try that. I did what was in the instructions… folded a piece of paper in half, put it between the gears and pushed them close as possible before tightening the motor spur.
I would ask what gsm was the paper? Was it snug or tight before the paper was removed? Did you use a lubricant? But if you have followed Jenso’s instructions might be best we wait for him
It was just a standard piece of printer paper… 75 gsm the label says. They don’t have that ‘Total Power Grease’ in the US that he uses. I tried Amazon but it’s impossible to get.
I used White Lithium Grease. Yes i want to hear what Jenso says. Maybe there is a little back pressure from thr gears that’s normal?
I want to see another set of wheels like mine spin… do they spin faster or about the same. Mine went around about 4 times on a spin. Lol i know this isn’t very scientific but i don’t know how else to compare.
Yap its easy with the papertrick but you will be still able to push the gears to close eachother… you need for sure some backlash as @Cobber said… no problem with a bit more… better then none
Edit
Checked your video… you need more distance for sure!!! I would say you got absolutely no backlash actually…
Hey @Nowind, did you finish your Li-ion Pack? Would love to hear if there is a difference in performance compared to your Lipos (power output, voltage sag)
Looks good! I was afraid it was going to look a little out of place… keep us updated on distance testing…what’s the total capacity of the battery in Mah?
Thanks, yap its bulky but still acceptable IMO…
Total Cap is 24Ah … 1050WH
Nothing gets hot, never had any problems with this XT90´s… only if they comes as ready assembeld series/parallel ones … then the solder job is sometimes really BAD
No thanks i´m fine …
NoFace made my Day … party this so hard right now
In the showtread this are 10S 5.2Ah packs wich are connected only with Velcro to the Board.
Total are 6 Packs in parrallel,
Loving @Duffman stacking/connecting style too… but mine is without …
Thanks for Input guys, none comes close
Winner is :
Leopard 8072
The retainer which holds the magnets in place comes loose :
Performance is noticable weaker on lower RPM, i think this is not caused alone by the smaller Motor but also by the high KV of 192… its 9Inch geared 1:5…
I’d guess you cooked the connector…
I hope it’s not the VESC (or Jenso) that blew up 
Glued all back in place with Loctide 603… comes loose again after 20km…
