Drang Boards deck building services, design, cnc etc

Looks great! Hell I would use this even for a non powered freeride deck!

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My concern is with the motors having clearance if you intend them to go under the enclosed and get a good angle on the trucks for turning you going to need a big riser. Iā€™m guessing 3/4 of a inch min to keep the motors off the ground. Iā€™m not exsperianced enough to work this out on paper or moc it up in auto cad. Can some one better than me draw it up to show Drang what my consent is/ work out how high the risers will have to be?

Edit: unless the intention is hub motors then this will not be a issue.

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Iā€™d say that with this deck the angle of the motors might be just a bit less than with say boosted, which is my only point of reference, but it should fit with under .5 riser. Not sure about ideal wheel diameter yet, maybe 100 is a bit big, but weā€™ll figure that out. One of my next plans is to get the CAD models for the various components, and see just how well it will fit. The motors will be near the battery cover in this drawing, so that might be out other pinch point.

You do wheel wells, can you also integrate motor wells?

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Was thinking that might be a thing. In this design specifically, the battery is right where the well motors would end up being, but maybe the battery cover can be MFGā€™d with some relief.

Boosted use 50mm motors most DIY Builds use 63mm motors. We are greedy need a little more room

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I imagine the angle can be lowered on some set ups. Gotta find CAD models for what we need to know, and weā€™ll know before making the first one. .75" riser shouldnā€™t be needed. If the angle of the motor can be tuned, we should be good, it just wonā€™t have as good of an approach angle.

Not all motor mounts are adjustable angles btw

Yep, we just gotta solve for what clearance will be with those. What the common angles are, motor sizes ect, and go from there. The first deck I proposed in this thread had a longer wheel base by 2" so that additional inch was meant to give a bit more clearance than this one being at 26" wheel base.

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Ok, what we have here is an 8mm" riser, with 100mm wheels, and 66mm for motor diameter. The motor on center is 12mm or .5" above the axle. Looks like we have plenty of room and wonā€™t be needing any sort of motor wells. I think if 100mm wheels are going to be used then the riser should be almost .5" for wheel bite purposes. I think Iā€™ll be rocking 85mm wheels, with .25" riser or more.

It looks like the motor needs to be about .25" above the axle plane rather than .5". The following image shows the contact point of the motor on the enclosure. This is at 20Ā° of lean with .3 risers. If I move the motor to .25" above the axle plane, the motor will clear as long as the enclosure doesnā€™t rise up above the original surface until it clears.

image

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I downloaded a 6384 motor, it looks like we can get clearance with the motor being 2.5" from the axle, and .25" above the axle off the road.

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Ok getting to work now.

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Ok I just wanted to see roughly what size trucks would be needed for the 6384s. It seems with the right wheels, 6384s would work with 230mm trucksā€¦

Is this enough information in order to figure out if weā€™re on the right track? Or is it back to the drawing board?

For those non adjustable motor mounts, what is the most popular mounting location for the motor?

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20 degrees of lean is quite a bit, and with 100mm wheels, that would not be quite attainable due to wheel bite.

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Thatā€™s what she said

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I think you would need 240 something @Kug3lis has some trucks that would work

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Looks good that. I personally donā€™t need a kick to be too pronounced. Its not like you are going to be ollying it all over the place. Just to aid in manoeuvrability.

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wooden integrated version of this with an improved deck. Hell yeah.

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Just like at a restaurante you can hold the onions, I can cut you a board with a different shape. Any shape can be made to work. Thank you for pointing that opinion difference out. Just remember, this can be a one off situation where we cut many boards out of the same mold.

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To clarify, the kick tail would work best as it is, if it was being ollied. Most skate decks have exactly a 36Ā° pop angle, but if the board has double the wheel base, that angle doesnā€™t want to be the same. it will ollie better with less aggressive kicks.

You are wonderful at derailing your own thread dude. Too funny
That deck you have the lovely 3d images of is a great thing. Build it integrate it and start taking money. Iā€™ll buy one.

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Haha, I wonder what you are referring to specifically, but I agree, itā€™s a bit rough. Iā€™m just throwing pasta at the wall dude. Iā€™m rushing all my answers and misunderstanding people left and right, but Iā€™m doing my best.

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Its beautiful enthusiasm and something that is sadly lacking in the majority of people working to live not living to work. I envy you. That doesnā€™t mean you can fly off on a tangent when I want to see this thing to fruition though. Specifically designed esk8 components are the future. Love your work

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