Show me one of those people
that’s 2 so far(including me)… seeing as how theres 13 likes on his post im betting theres some more people whove done it.
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Ok, now I understand what you’re asking for. You’d like some one side redundancy. It’s theoretically possible when you set same pipe address on two receivers but it should be tested first.
there are couple of threads about this situation but im no expert i can only try but i dont have a dual setup to clarify it. https://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=448593.0
Still not sure what he wants to achieve.
Reason for 2 receivers is?
4WD or one side redundancy
well some dont like canbus because if master fails you lose slave aswell also be careful canbus easily can fry vesc if not powered at the same time. i think subject is drifting away there are plenty of discussions about this, veery long ones 
Power receiver through seperate 5V BEC, dual PWM outs from single receiver?
he means 2 seperate individual receivers per focbox so they power their own receiver from their own servo cable. eliminating the need for split ppm or canbus
If I am not mistaken you can do that but you need to adjust the code to take two different pipes and make sure they take turns to send the data…
Not ideal…
The idea is redundency?
i will just drop that here thats benjamins opinion on the matter https://www.electric-skateboard.builders/t/y-piece-or-canbus/26461/85?u=zyb
Still the only proper solution for 4WD would be dual receivers to masters and CAN to slaves. Or is there any other way?
if daisy chain canbus is not possible i think yes dual receiver with can sounds ok to me
sorry didn’t mean to derail the thread. After googling a bit more seems it is possible just need both receivers to have same address. Will try and report back once i have everything built
If this was one way communication yes, but it’s 2 way. You might have problems on the transmitter end when both receivers send back telemetry information at the same time.
How do you shield the NRF with copper tape without shorting any components on it? Do you heatshrink it and THEN apply the copper tape over the top?
Only the lousier ceramic modules seem to need shielding. I am going without sheilding for the better modules.
I cover it with tape first then copper tape. Copper tape is non conductive on the adhesive side too but the additional tape layer is for additional security
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I just got the charger/boost converter.
I have tested it with the original 1K Rprog and a 3.3K Rprog.
With the 1K resistor I measured the charge current to be approximately 850mA. The Charging module got HOT right away.
With the 3.3K resistor I measured the charge current to be approximately 380mA. The charging module barley got warm, even after 15 min of charging.
(For calculations and examples) here is the ME4056 charge IC datasheet: http://www.cnzls.com/PDF/Li-ion%20Battery%20Charger/ME4056_E2.0.pdf
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i messaged aliexpress supplier and they advised me the same thing tho they didnt tell me what size resistor should i use. is it 1206 size in the picture? i think i will go with 5k for the value
I used a 0805 resistor. I believe the 1K I took off also were 0805 sized. (The 250 Ohm resistor in the top left corner is 1206)
I measured the capacity of the battery I am going to use in the remote to be 800mAh. I figured out that I would be satisfied with ½ a C charge rate/ ≈ 2-hour charge time. I’ll probably do a full charge cycle on the bench, just to make sure it works properly.
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