The enclosure is from @psychotiller It’s a 2-piece adjustable length. Front half covering the battery and back half covers the electronics with just the motor wires sticking out.
That’s the one.
Strips are .15mm thick and I set the welder on max amps and max pulses. Wanted to make sure it wouldn’t break loose with vibration.
Hopefully my .25mm strips are okay. My uncle’s company has got professional spot welders, so hopefully they have an idea on what settings to use
Bigger is better when it comes to nickel strips!
Indeed. I might still use copper wick like whitepony just Incase.
I need a router
I just used a dremel with a router attachment. It was a little squirrely so I had to finish it with the file.
Nice one !!! Let us know what the range you’ll have.
I will have to test its range once Its all back together. I’m expecting close to 18-20 miles with 9ah 69% on this meter is 38.4v This meter has switches on the back to set it for battery type and cell count from 2s to 15s
@Namasaki And how do you like that BMS ? Seems like it’s one of the best available on the market right now ?
Haven’t got to test it yet. But I think its a robust bms. with twice the Fet’s and heat sinks. It’s rated for 80a cont but can burst up to 240a The max amp protection is adjustable at the factory so I had them set it at 120a which matches the peak amp capability of the battery pack. anyway, I’m never gonna pull 120a unless I get a short.
can you explain more on how you crimped them?
You crimp them with crimping plyers just like automotive connectors. Then heat them with a hot air gun to shrink the casing. I added the black shrink tube in the middle as an extra in case the crimping tool cut through the insulation. I made a solid connection and I could not pull the wires back out
So far, I love this bms with its built in E-switch. There is no spark at all when I connect the final battery cable The only down side is that you have to turn the bms on to charge the battery so the board is live when charging.