i agree with all of this. making enclosures like this is hard. since trying i have a shittone of respect for people that make good enclosures.
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Same here, It is even hard to make a shitty enclosure 
Also my respect for those who are in the game!
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I don’t have a lot of pictures, but I do have lots of video. This clip is of me riding my WR450 along some of the tracks. It’s pretty long, and boring, but you’ll get an idea of the terrain.
Here’s some aerial footage I got with one of my smaller UAV’s. This location is not too far from ‘home’ and I think would be LOTs of fun with a E-MTB.
Good point about the additional clearance with the Urban Carver - I had forgotten about that.
Oh, and @Eboosted, it’s people like you that are contributing to our ‘disease’. Stop making sexy stuff and we won’t be compelled to buy it.
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Sick, I had no idea it looks like this! I think the sealed direct drive is best especially in this environment, you won’t get any troubles.
Man, the second video is really great looks like the perfect playground 
I wish it would be closer for me than a 22 hours flight…
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Thanks man. Yep, I took some time choosing the drive unit and I have absolutely no regrets with what I have. @Nowind makes some really sexy stuff and that drive unit is perfect for where I am. Maybe a helical gear upgrade one day down the track…
If you ever get the inclination to make the 22hr flight over here, you are more than welcome to see part of my playground. There are plenty of other locations that are just as good as this one. Anyway, I sense a ‘thread derail’ here, so I’m best to stop.
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Absolutely stunning area you live @ArnhemAnt! There’s some pretty hefty looking jumps there! Love the epic crash at the end too! 
@rich if you did ever fancy the flight you could come visit my place in SA too and then on to @cobber on Kangeroo Island! 
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Thanks for your invitations @ArnhemAnt and @DanSkates 
I hope I will make it one day… and if you ever come to europe you know who to call
Meanwhile I made some modifications on my board.
First I made some custom bearing spacers to say good bye o-rings 
I filed down the 18,2mm spacers until they fit perfectly, each spacer is different in length and between 17,2 and 17,7mm. That was really hard work doing by hand.
After I finished all spacers I realized once again only one wheel is perfect. The bearings in almost all other spokes have a bit play. On the front wheels I can (must) accept it but the rear wheels should be perfect because of the drivetrain. Wanted to change one spoke in one rear hub but can’t find a better one 
The bolts of the hub adapter for wheel gear of the perfect hub never come loose, only the bolts of the hub where 1 bearing has a bit play come loose. One day I have to order more spokes…
Then I changed the bushings on the front truck and made an aluminium spacer which should help against bending of the hanger or in worst case keep the bushings in place if they should ever brake which I doubt.
Put some grease on all moving parts especially because metal is rubbing on metal.
Fits nice without rattling
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Beautiful work mate!!! I have to say I’ve been super lazy not sorting out the play in my bearings - I’ll get on that next week for sure. Great tips! I reckon we need to start an ‘eMTB hacks’ page up with all these little nuggets of gold as the tend to get lost between our various threads.
As soon as I’m back in Europe I’m coming with my board to pay yo a visit for sure!
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If I would have a running board now I would prefer riding and not filing spacers like a freak. This is perfect work for winter or rainy days or never.
If you don’t have troubles with the play then I’m sure there are more important things in life existing 
What I did during building was to take 8 hubs apart and combined the best parts.
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HAHAHA! Best meme yet!
No my bearings shift back and forth like a motherfucker. They’re pretty bad - I gotta get on that!
Btw…I’ve reset the S.K.A.T.E trick for when you’re up and running again!
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Now I’m puzzled. I don’t have any ‘O’ rings. Were these supposed to come with the trucks?
The rubber o-rings are used between bearing spacer and bearing but there are different options…
The space between the 2 bearings on superstar hubs is about 17,3-17,9mm, due to tolerances of the hubs, spokes and bearings. If you have 16,5mm bearing spacers you should use 2mm o-rings to fill the gap. The spacer on bottom of the pic is the former 17,8mm spacer but Trampa changed to 16,5mm spacer and o-rings last year (the spacer is still available for mini vertigo axle but not for 12mm).
The gaps on my superstar hubs for urban carver are between 17,8 and 17,9mm so I’ll use the 17,8mm spacer plus kaptontape or similar to reach 17,9mm.
For my custom spacers I took the 18,2mm spacer which are used on Hypa hubs and on all ATB hangers and filed them down to desired length.
Confused now?
But you know what, just measure the length of your spacers and if they are 16,5mm I can send you some o-rings by mail, I have some spares…
And if you have no time to wait maybe you can find them locally in a plumber store, for mini vertigo ID=8mm and for 12mm axle it’s ID=10mm and 2mm width.
In theory I like the o-rings because they prevent rattling (which I really don’t like) but in pratice it’s hard to say when to stop tightening the axle nut and when you tighten it too much the o-ring gets squeezed and bigger in diameter, killed some o-rings because of this so far. And when you take off the wheel from the axle the o-ring flies away, nice in deep grass. But with my green slime I hope I won’t have to take off the wheels that often.
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Absolutely. I’m lost. I ordered the Urban Carver with the Mini trucks. There were no ‘O’ rings with them. When I ordered the gear drive from @Nowind, he sent me a machined hanger (which is wider than the mini). So, I have front trucks that are Mini’s and rear trucks (to accommodate dual gear drive units) which are ‘standard’ or wider than the front. Neither of these have ‘O’ rings. I think I’m going to have to go back and pull everything apart just to check spacers, tolerances, etc so I can work out a plan of attack. From what I understand, the superstar hubs and spokes are certainly not an item that is consistent in their machining and tolerances, and this, in turn, leads to ‘patches’ like using ‘O’ rings or different sized spacers - frustrating.
Wait rubber goes inside? 
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I guess you use ID=12mm bearings on all wheels and additional bearing conversion spacer (to 9,525mm) on the mini hanger, right?
That means you don’t have spacer between the bearings for the wheels on the machined hanger because when you ordered the urban carver you had only ID=9,525mm spacers which don’t fit on 12mm axle. Is that correct?
Just take one of the front wheels and measure the length of the spacer between the bearings, if it’s 16,5mm you should use o-rings or longer spacer. On the rear wheels you actually have no spacer if I’m correct.
Hope you are not more confused than before 
It’s possible to ride without spacers but the bearings wouldn’t like it. As I mentioned the o-rings are not a bad idea to fill the gap, better than a gap but in a perfect world you can crank down the axle nut without squeezing the bearings or getting any resistance when rotating because of a perfect length spacer, this is what I did 
True, but it’s still the sexiest hub IMO 
I had several skate- and longboards in my life and all spacers of the bearings were to short, i have a trauma from rattling noises. Only once I had a perfect spacer/bearing/wheel combination on my Bustin Mission with the 70mm stock wheels, I could smash the board on the ground without any noise or ride harsh terrain in silence, that was great. Then I bought orangatang kegel wheels and the rattling was back again 
As you can see I have a personal problem with rattling noises that’s why custom spacers.
Yes if you have 16,5mm spacer 
This is how I mount the wheels with o-rings, first I add the inner bearing and slide the wheel on the axle, then the 16,5mm spacer.
Then I squeeze the o-ring on the axle and slide it with help of finger nails or a tool.
Then add the second bearing, done.
Yessssssss!
I just solved the problem with the wiggeling bearing during writing this post.
I inserted the bearing in the spoke and wiggeled the bearing in all directions to see where the play is, often it’s only on 2 sides. Then I marked the positions on the spoke and added stripes of kapton tape (which is 0,04mm) on 2 sides of the bearing there where the play is.
Now the play is gone and the bearing ist still easy to slide in (only in the correct position according to mark on spokes), I could add another stripe to make it pressfit if neccessary but I’m quite happy now 
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It’s like Slimer from Ghostbusters yakked on your sneaker.
Does the slime have a balancing effect as well?
Tyre changeers hate the slime although that would be in tubeless tyres, I think I know why now
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Definitely, maybe not 100% but I lost the counter balance weights on one hub and when spinning fast there is almost no vibration with slime like with counter weights
But it needs some turns until the green slime is evenly spreaded, on first turn the balance is horrible
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Yeah I agree, I haven’t noticed any wheel wobbles with slime.
Thanks to the hints of @Nowind and @Deckoz I found the HillBilly full finger goat glove in UK, määäääh!
Also ordered the MBS F5 binding for comparison, thanks @DanSkates and @Duffman, I’m really curious!
Finally ordered vicious griptape @Cobber 
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Dude Link for the full fingers.
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