I would be interested in a guide/thread to turning hubmotors into axial drive motors… 
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You can’t, both are made of a totally different design. This site got good info regarding motor 
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Also did a custom repair on that chinese “small fish plate board”. Found this website just now but couldn’t find anything on the ESC that’s in mine. It’s labelled Reintech RT-60D (single motor version). I tried to overvolt just for fun at on point, and wired on my 14S4P eBike battery which was at 52.7V… Motor spinned crazy fast but ESC started beeping (probably to warn from higher voltage)… Did not try under load.
Question, when you upgraded from 7S to 10S ? How was your topspeed ??? On 7S, I top out at 16 km/h, so I imagine top speed would be 22-22 km/h on 10S, and even 29 km/h on 13S. The HB3GL-A motor is 37.5 Kv in reality (not the 110 kV advertised).
My battery quitted on me after a month. One cell died. So instead of using generic chinese 18650, I used some high power cells (Sony VTC4 and LG-chem HD2C) scavenged from good dyson vacuum battery pack (BMS were faulty but cells were good !). Made a 7S2P pack with twice the capacity. Transplanted BMS and made a custom wood gasket (made waterproof by epoxy coating) so the battery box could accomodate more cells without having to create an entirely new battery box. Initially posted some pics on the Endless-sphere: https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=98771
Will try to upload a bit more pictures than the ones already on the endless-sphere for you guy who are curious about this board.
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Could not post more than ONE picture on this forum as I am a new user, so I posted 93 pictures on the Endeless-Sphere forum instead. Here is the link to these 93 pics!:https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=98771#p1457023
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yuweng, how fast are you going with 10S ?
This is a killer post thanks. I have a dead one which should be fixable…no lights
Will check using this guide Cheers
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Thanks Banjaaxed The lights were not stock though. Got them Koowheel lights on eBay 20 bucks for the set of 4. Only prob is the holding metal brackets tend to snap due to vibrations. Lost on light and retreived a secobd one due to this. In the end i removed them. Will have to find time one day to deseign a more solid bracket. BTW, if your on off switch craps out, i found a much better quality one with the exact same dimensions (original momentary switch not the chinese clone). If you need to buy a replacement like I did, the link is in the endeless sphere thread. I also explained how to reverse direction on a hall sensored motor in this ES thread, as my board was always in reverse mode when powered on… I changed it… Got 200 km on this board now…
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Seldom hangout here nowadays, got an email notification regarding banjaxxed post today then only i realize your post was here earlier 
Nice detail post at Endless-Sphere
With 10S as you said, it was about 20Km/h but easily wobble at those speed & the wheel will heat up very fast ! Fyi, i got it working up to 20S but on load, it’ll fried those mosfets even though i’ve upgraded to 150 Volts mosfets, i guess those 3 phase motor PWM went crazy with 84 Volts, i lost counts of how many times i’ve repair it 
On these single hub motor esk8, 13S or 16S won’t increase much top speed but the torque is crazy, you’ll need to get some use to it, my advice is better to stay at 10S 
Just in case anyone wants to dis-solder faulty mosfets, you’ll need this type of PTC heater or it won’t come off, got it quite cheap online.
Your board Reintech RT-60D is the same as those generic Chinese esk8, just dis-solder the link/ zero ohm resistor at the PCB label 6S & 7S then your board will become 10S. Reintech is the same company as Microworks, recently bought a 30Km/h EUC motherboard from them, they use to be an R&D board manufacturer but last few years venture into manufacturing & selling esk8 directly.
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Thanks Yuweng ! 20S is absolutely crazy !!! You swapped the mosfet !!! I’m in awe seeing how ingenious people like you can be. BTW I’m guessing it would be a good idea to also upgrade the capacitors to higher voltage ones.On the Reintech they are rated 63V (up to 15S !!), but on the cheaper eBay ESC, the caps are typically only rated 50V (max 11S).
I love the small fish plate electric skateboard, It’s a good entry level board for a very very good price so as long as people are a bit handy, It can be repaired easily. My initially had lots of problems, but only because of very minor and easily fixed failures that most people would not even think to inquire about. For example I had to resolder the wires of the switch (they broke with vibrations and left me stranded with no power), had to hot glue one of the small capacitor (false contact with vibrations) and I had to swap the momentary switch providing power to the ESC because It would not work anymore after being exposed to slight/moderate moisture and light dirt. This new R6BBLKBLKFF switch looks exactly the same as the chinese generic cloned swithc (KCD1-110 (On)-Off momentary version) but the genuine R6BBLKBLKFF switch gave me no problem whatsoever : https://www.digikey.com/products/en?keywords=R6BBLKBLKFF ( this is the “momentary” (On) Off version, carefull not to buy the classic rocker switch, which stays is On position after release). My battery also died after around 50 cycles (relatively shallow ones: 100% to 40% on average). So I build this one double the capacity… much much more reliable and long lived!
I’m must say that one day one I upgraded the bearing for Zealous steel ones because the stock one had a lot of friction resistance (would spin one revolution!).
I’m planning to eventually upgrade to 10S. I have an additionnal 6 Sony VTC4 cells (2100 mAh,30A, 23 mOhms DCIR) so I will make a seperate “3S2P Booster battery pack” with it’s own balancing BMS to wire in series with the 7S2P pack I have on… But maybe I will change my mind altoughter and just rebuild a battery with 10S2P and a 10S BMS instead. But I do like the low profile original small battery box… Thanks for all the info on the Reintech / Microworks ESC… I litterally spend days trying to find a replacement spare Reintech ESC (in case I blow up the original ESC by overvolting it too much!!). I could not find it anywhere (tried eBay, Amazon, Bangood, Aliexpress, Alibaba… Even though I don’t speak or write mandarin or cantonese, I even tried taobao and 1688.com, using google translante…)… I found some text on the dual hub version of this ESC and tried to seach for it (used a online chinese caracter recognition website, drawing each stroke of the caracters…)… Came up with this from one picture, I saw some chinese text I was able to translate myself:
深圳 瑞 引 科技 双 驱 遥控 滑板 控制 器
型号 : RT-60C3
输入电压 : DC24-36V
匹配电机 : 法拉迪
Shēnzhèn ruì yǐn kējì shuāng qū yáokòng huábǎn kòngzhì qì
Xínghào : RT-60C3
Shūrù diànyā : DC24-36V
Pǐpèi diànjī : Fǎlā dí
ShenZen Technology Dual Drive Remote Control skateboard controller
Model No : RT-60C3
Input voltage : DC24-36V
Matching Motor: Fǎlā dí
So I searched the web for a single hub ESC with similar chinese caracters: “深圳 瑞 引 科技 单 驱 遥控 滑板 控制器” and some other combinations of characters. No luck. I could not find any spare replacement controller that could fit in the original battery box. The original Reintech RT-60D V 1.1 ESC has dimensions of 55 x 75 mm… The original battery box has a compartiment for ESC which can accomodate an ESC with maximal dimensions of 77 x 75 mm. But no ESC on the market is small enough to fit. Except the Reintech RT-60D i think.
I did find an interesting ESC that I could pair up with an upgraded RC6 type Remote… Here: https://detail.1688.com/offer/572856146064.html?spm=a261b.2187593.0.0.25201e4dD7m2B2
But it seems like it’s only available in china. This one is not currently available on the market for some reason… at least not the single hub version… Tough to find stuff for this board, but I love it, the size and weight makes it very practicle even for the slow speed, but I would be more than happy with 20 km/h…!
The replacement ESC tah would fit and that has the RC6 remote would be this one:
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I also looked up the motor. Was able to buy a spare on eBay for around 50 USD… The PU sleeve is starting to get quite beaten up. Also bought a replacement set of trucks (exactly as the original) in case it breaks (cheap metal cast ?), I will have replacement to mount the motor on.
So info I found on the motor:
Motor : Modèle HB3GL-A
Nominal voltage: 24-48 V
Power: 100-200 W
Net weight: 0.7 kg
Outside diameter: 70mm
Tire width: 52mm
Motor shaft: M12
Number of hall sensors: 3 pcs
No load speed: 900 RPM @ 24V (0.35A); 1350 RPM @ 36V (0.38A); 1800rpm @ 48V (0.42A)
Deduced KV rating: 37.5 RPM/V; (somewhat often advertised as a 110 Kv motor).
Nominal speed: 700-1800 RPM, customizable.
Torque: 3-5 N.m
Expected motor RPM for different Li- ion batteries:
6S Batt: 945 rpm @ max 25.2V - 810 rpm@ nom 21.6V - 675 rpm @ min 18.0V
7S Batt: 1103 rpm @ max 29.4V - 945 rpm@ nom 25.2V - 788 rpm @ min 21.0V
8S Batt: 1260 rpm @ max 33.6V - 1080 rpm@ nom 28.8V - 900 rpm @ min 24.0V
9S Batt: 1103 rpm @ max 29.4V - 1215 rpm@ nom 32.4V - 1013 rpm @ min 27.0V
10S Batt: 1575 rpm @ max 42.0V - 1350 rpm@ nom 36.0V - 1125 rpm @ min 30.0V
11S Batt: 1733 rpm @ max 46.2V - 1485 rpm@ nom 39.6V - 1238 rpm @ min 33.0V
12S Batt: 1890 rpm @ max 50.4V - 1620 rpm@ nom 43.2V - 1350 rpm @ min 36.0V
13S Batt: 2048 rpm @ max 54.6V - 1755 rpm@ nom 46.8V - 1463 rpm @ min 39.0V
14S Batt: 2205 rpm @ max 54.6V - 1890 rpm@ nom 50.4V - 1575 rpm @ min 42.0V
Free air speeds with 70 mm wheels (circumference = 0.220 m): Advertised as 70 mm
6S Batt: 12.5 km/h (max) - 10.7 km/h (nominal) - 8.9 km/h (empty)
7S Batt: 14.5 km/h (max) - 12.5 km/h (nominal) - 10.4 km/h (empty)
8S Batt: 16.6 km/h (max) - 14.3 km/h (nominal) - 11.9 km/h (empty)
9S Batt: 14.5 km/h (max) - 16.0 km/h (nominal) - 13.4 km/h (empty)
10S Batt: 20.8 km/h (max) - 17.8 km/h (nominal) - 14.8 km/h (empty)
11S Batt: 22.9 km/h (max) - 19.6 km/h (nominal) - 16.3 km/h (empty)
12S Batt: 24.9 km/h (max) - 21.4 km/h (nominal) - 17.8 km/h (empty)
13S Batt: 27.0 km/h (max) - 23.2 km/h (nominal) - 19.3 km/h (empty)
14S Batt: 29.1 km/h (max) - 24.9 km/h (nominal) - 20.8 km/h (empty)
Free air speeds with 73 mm wheels (circumference = 0.230 m) – My measured size (using calipers)
6S Batt: 13.0 km/h (max) - 11.1 km/h (nominal) - 9.3 km/h (empty)
7S Batt: 15.2 km/h (max) - 13.0 km/h (nominal) - 10.8 km/h (empty)
8S Batt: 17.3 km/h (max) - 14.9 km/h (nominal) - 12.4 km/h (empty)
9S Batt: 19.5 km/h (max) - 16.7 km/h (nominal) - 13.9 km/h (empty)
10S Batt: 21.7 km/h (max) - 18.6 km/h (nominal) - 15.5 km/h (empty)
11S Batt: 23.8 km/h (max) - 20.4 km/h (nominal) - 17.0 km/h (empty)
12S Batt: 26.0 km/h (max) - 22.3 km/h (nominal) - 18.6 km/h (empty)
13S Batt: 28.2 km/h (max) - 24.1 km/h (nominal) - 20.1 km/h (empty)
14S Batt: 30.3 km/h (max) - 26.0 km/h (nominal) - 21.7 km/h (empty)
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i started off with ebikes, like you, move on to esk8 & nowadays, modding EUCs, its never ending 
, i actually learned alot of stuff from endless-sphere’s long time user fechter, my ebikes was running 84Volts SLA battery back then, got a top speed of 70Km/h until the whole axle & mounting screw got spin out as i was not using any torque arm, luckily i didn’t got injured, good times during those good old days Still using my ebikes on & off nowadays In case you are interested…
but that will be at another forum
Back to your case, AFAIK, Reintech/ Microworks only sell to OEMs nowadays, use to see alot of their boards on taobao/ 1688/ ebay but suddenly everything went missing/ disappear. You can actually use any generic boards, it should fit into these generic fish plate. The Reintech or any generic controller is actually quite robust, you don’t need to buy any spare if you’re not modding it. i did order my spare but never really got to use it. ( Warning : it won’t work on 10S on default, you gotta do some micro-soldering on it then only it’ll work & those step down resistors are hot on 10S ! )
As for these single hub motor, these fish plate uses the cheapest of all but again, they are quite robust ! A trick i found to keep the PU from aging is soak a damp cloth around it for awhile after use & it’ll be like new ! i guess these PU needs water 
Having said that, DO NOT USE IT IN THE RAIN or run it on any water surface, the internal of the hub motor WILL RUST even though they said its water resistant ! My friend’s wheel got rusting so bad inside it after a week of not using that it wouldn’t even spin. When i open it up, there are still tons of water inside but anything is repairable
These fish plate spare parts are actually very cheap on taobao or for that matter of fact, everything is cheap there but sending it to the West is a problem, you’ll need to use taobao agent.
Updates
Rusted hub
Found the photos but couldn’t find the one i measured with my el-cheapo RPM meter at 10S was around 3.5K ! But as you guest it, it wouldn’t even pass 20Km/h on load
Updates
Actual RPM
Whoops, at 10S, it was 2715
Thanks for the update. Good to see some solid RPM measurment. I did not have a tachymeter and based my calculation on speed and on some RPM figures on alibaba. As per your measurment, this motor doesn’t have a Kv of 110 RPM/V as advertised on alibaba… With my figures I calculated around 37.5 RPM/V, But as your tachymeter shows in reality, in free air, it’s more like 75 RPM/V ?
I received the new spare hub motor. Same central stator, but rotor can acommodate replaceble PU. 75 mm PU sleeve. Just can’t find additionnal replacement 75 mm PU sleeve anywhere on alibaba or elsewhere. At the same time I serviced my OEM hub motor. Not much rust in my case. But the rubber o-ring was destroyed. So I put a new one (it’s 13mm OD, 10 mm ID and 1.5 mm cross-section). I also ordered new screws for the hub motor cap, because they are easy to strip… They are 6 x 10 mm M3-0.5 screws with PH1 Philips flat head.
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Previously, i’ve been looking for these fish plate replacement hub too but couldn’t find one that offers replaceable PU, so i didn’t order, AFAIK, only 83mm & 90mm has. do snap some photos & share it here.
i donno if you’re refering to the back of the hub motor, i’ve change mine to SS allen screw for easy tightening instead of tightening with a screw driver
Here is what i mean:
This is 75.0 mm external diameter. Could not find the replacement sleeves for this one. But obviously they exist, since they are removable. Let me know if you ever find some pu sleeves. I’d probably have better luck finding it if i could read some Chinese…
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Its good to know that they make replaceable PU for these cheap fish plate too, thanks for the info Found a few but i donno if its exactly for your wheel though.
Link1, Link2, Link3, Link4, Link5
Ask your seller if they sell these PU then it will be a direct match for your wheel.
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Thanks, that seems like it (maybe slightly tinner on the outside peel, by 1 - 2 mm). I sent an email to the seller of the motor. Wait and see… By if we get it, it would be a first for electric skatboarders on the american continent !
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My eBay seller doesn’t have the part and can’t obtain it. I need to find something else…
yuweng, Do you know what kind of antenna wire the ESC needs ? My remote only works for 3-8 feet… well more like 3 feets reliably. I would like to increase signal range between ESC and remote. I noticed picture on the internet of the Dual hub Reintech ESC can accept an antenna wire… Do you happen to know wich kind ? I think it must be a 2.4 GHz right ?
2.4 GHz IPEX wire ?
I think the antenna wire would have to be attached somewhere inside that blue circle…
Help!??
Ok, new to this website, so hopefully I’m posting this right. Last summer I decided to buy one of those cheaper “Small Fish Plate” E-Boards, and I went through a lot of hassles to get it. Debating on brands, very delayed shipping, very bad customer service, etc. It didn’t take long for it to break down, from outside modifications until it completely conked out. The questionable company didn’t reply despite many attempts at contact, so I took a chance and opened up myself. Luckily, I managed to bring it back to life, but it is still very finicky. So I’m opting to first fix and then upgrade it, rather than waste the inflated price I paid.
The main problem right now is seemingly whenever I hit a bump (like continuing to hit the sidewalk impressions after awhile), the (ECU presumably) beeps 2 -3 times and the board disables itself, but remains on. I don’t want to have that happen when I need the brakes on a hill. Yikes. After that, maybe upgrade the battery or make it swap-able on the go (The latter I already have plans for.) The rest like the motor power and such I can think about later. Any ideas or help would be immensely appreciated. Thanks.
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Check if changimg the on/off momentary switch will silve the probem, the check that capacitor don t have a false contact. Check all connection are secure.
I ve had random cutoffs bc of loose capacitors on the ESac on BMS
Matador