https://der-rollenshop.sportkanzler.de/150mm-Luftraeder you can change the language at the top right. These tubes are for narrower wheels, but i guess its fine.
Sorry I owe you some pregress reports/pics butemy ambitions have proven to be greater than my available time. Nothing yet from me.
No further progress, except for 3D printed spacers for the bearings. I mean, they work, but I donāt yet know about their longevity so I donāt really wanna share atm. They allow me to space out the bearings in any spacing I want. Also I think it works because my bearings have a HUGE lip to place spacers. 
Also I was looking for some puncture proofing, but two places I bought the strips from, insta-refunded me, so that idea is scrapped for nowā¦
I am also trying to track down a source of Schwalbe Impac 6" tubes.
On the other note, I have some local dealers, I will have to ask them to import some.
I wonder if our default tubes are 6x1?
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dunno, i guess it puts more strain on them to fill the same volume, but i donāt see a big problem.
You think these will fit on the wheel? A tiny bit smaller
Found this on a swedish site https://maskindack.se/slangar-falgband/implement-framtraktor/ovrigt/slang-6-x-1-1-4-gripen-7777-90-45/
Havenāt made any more progress lately. Looking to change the bearings out eventually but I havenāt had time to get my printer working
Do you have a broken bearing or just that itās not free spinning? If latter, then just ride it for sometime and it will free up on itās own.
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I had just seen that some people mentioned that they spin easier when they changed bearings. I need to monitor what my whr/km is to see if its worth doing the swap
Thatās what I am saying, give it a shot and if you donāt like it then change. I am on stock and I am getting 13wh/km. No point in wasting money and time if you donāt really need it.
Free rolling bearings are necessary when you are pushing not when you have it motorized. Thick grease bearings are not free rolling but are long lasting.
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I changed the bearings in 2 wheels because they were clicking and nasty, the other 3 wheels Iāve got are good with stock for now. Iāll change them as and when they need it.
On a side note The failure of the valve stems that a few people are seeing could be caused by the hole in the wheel being oversized. Iāve noticed that there is visible rubber coming out through the hole around the stem on 2 of my wheelsā¦ it may be a symptom of running high pressures? Iām going to look at turning some thin nylon collars to go around the stems to protect them and take up the excess space.
Iāve adopted the mod to allow puncture repairs without removing the pulleyā¦ works well so far.
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What mod is this?
I canāt find it now!! It basically boils down to using longer wheel bolts to bolt the pulley on to the wheel half which has the tapped holes and then using locking nuts to hold the other rim half on to this assemblyā¦
Iāll take a picture tomorrow if that doesnāt make sense.
Heās talking about this.
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Havenāt been able to try them yet, it is the rainy season here and did not had the motivation to work on my board. Will definitely post something once it is done.
Wouldnāt it help to just smooth the corners of the hole? Maybe some electrical tape would help even?
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Maybe soā¦ My thinking is that I get a nice clean fix that I can put on all my tubes, I like a bit of overkill.
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Here another clip i have from experimenting with the gooseneck and mouting options
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I basically took a file and dulled the edge where the fill valve comes out.
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