Just wanted to confirm on the magnums as a local skate shop was telling me it wouldn’t fit the TB218s? I’m confused as I thought they should fit
Edit:
Forgot I don’t have pivot cups as I’m assuming the TB218s come bare without those as well 
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Looking at the seat it looks like the Magnums don’t work but they worked really well on my set
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Alright. I Want to know how magnums work compared to chubby bushings? So having the bushing not sit completely flush in the bushing seat is fine and won’t cause any problems for wobbles or anything?
Also what pivot cup would you recommend to go with the TorqueBoard 218mm Full stock trucks?
Caliber II pivots and the Chubbys do not fit as well as the Magnums because of the axle interference in the casting
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Awesome. I’ll inform Tracey to add in the Caliber II pivots. Just to be sure that would be these? http://www.riptidesports.com/wfb-96a-pivot-cup-choices/ for the caliber II cast option? should they also be the same 96a as well?
I’ve already received the invoice with the 2 sets of Krank canon 96a and single magnum bushing 96a. Just waiting for Tracey’s response on adding in the pivot cups too
Also think its nice for you and Tracey to offer free shipping for any additional orders with the tunnel risers so I’m going to be checking out the risers with the bushings and pivot cups together! 
Thanks for sharing the knowledge @Alphamail 
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So they should work? I really tried to get these to fit. They did fit perfectly in my caliber II baseplates without much force. Also the original Caliber II pivot cup did not fit the TB baseplate either. Maybe I should try once more?
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Thank you for trying again, can you post pictures of the issues and do you have a set of calipers? Or better yet, can you send them to me to take a look at? Any chance you have the Base plates for the TB VII 180’s?
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If so, TB would have had to send them with the 180 baseplates as this is the only truck I got from them. So I do not think so, without knowing how the 180 baseplates looks like. I could send them, but, since I am located in Norway, it may be a hassle.
So, these are pictures from last time i tried fitting them, I have 2 sets of cups, only one cup was close to a decent fit:
This was the closest I got with only one of them.
Bad fit
Perfect fit with calibers
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Ok so the Caliber II pivots do fit the Caliber II trucks, can you replace the TB 218 base plate with a Caliber to make it work? There must be an issue with the TB 218 base plate such as the hole is not drilled deep enough.
Yes, that will work. I agree, they can not be identical to Caliber baseplates, my set of them at least.
Hello,
I am on caliber 2 44’s, 180mm width. Running stock blood orange 89a barrels, truck feels very loose and hard to control at speed no mater how much weight I put on front. I am on a landyachtz Evo falcon, half inch riser, 97mm flywheels, I get some wheel bite in the front when I try to u turn in narrowish subdivison streets. I weigh around 200.
I’m not exactly sure what I want, so I was thinking maybe a variety or a starting point and going from there. Thank you!
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Hey @Brdchris do you know what the functional baseplate angles are when mounted to the deck? I cannot find the specs on the Falcon, they just say wedged and dewedged. Most likely the problem is with stock bushings all around, the rear truck is easier to turn than the front since the rear has so much more leverage over the trucks due to the dewedging. This is the opposite of what you want. The front should be easier to turn than the rear to balance out the system.
I think it’s 15 degrees wedge up front and 15 dewedge our back on 45 degree baseplate. So that would be 60/30 right?
I’ve read you talk about that before earlier in this thread, should I do harder/larger bushings out back or change my wedge?
It does have a funny forklift feel to me, I don’t mind it so much but it’s definetly there. Also mind you I’m new to this. That’s why I’m not exactly sure what I want out of the board yet.
If it is 15 degrees than you are ending up at 59/29 which is fine with the right bushing setup, do you have any cone bushings of the same durometer laying around as the Blood Orange to do some testing with? Or perhaps some harder or larger bushings to replace the rear with? Bottom line is you need to boost the shape or durometer of the rear bushings to resist the enhanced leverage there.
I have some grey 96-98a barrels I was given but I’m not sure if that’s too hard. I don’t mind buying a few to try out.
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I have measured my Landyachtz Evo deck and the angles are closer to 9 degrees.
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Before you buy anything, throw at least one of those in the rear to see the effect. Start with the rear boardside bushing. If the feel improves add the second one so we can see if that is overkill.
Awesome will do! Thanks so much
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Hi @Alphamail. I’m 105kg pushing 110 with gears, caliber II 160mm 50°. For cruising 40kph max. What’s the best bushing combo should I use? And I’m having trouble like this too…
https://www.electric-skateboard.builders/t/front-truck-floating-wheel/65111?u=gigoy
Thanks!
I had 0 issues with the krank magnum nor the pivot cups. They are not perfectly flush with the top of the baseplate but maybe .5 mm higher.
This is ofc a TB 218mm truck. As far as Im aware my 2nd set is identical tho I haven’t installed the new pivots there yet.
PS anyway to get those suckers out without destroying them in the process?
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